Easy to wire up and works like a dream

Brother likes it.

以前はECO-Worthy社のPWMの30Aものを使っていたが、太陽光パネルをつなぐ端子部分が高温になっていて、本体も８０℃を超え、エラーで止まっていた。その後、ついに故障したのでこちらに切り替えた。以前とは、まるで違う発電効率の良さと、本体の40A用のためか温度安定性に満足している。しいて難点を言えば、配線を締め付けるねじを回すドライバーに、手持ちの直径Φ6.0mmのドライバー入らないので、仕方なくΦ4.7mmのドライバーを使う必要があり、締め付け力が小さくなってしまい締めにくいと感じている。2025年2月21日追記　配線接続部で焼損発生　結論から言えば、配線の結線方法があやまっていたため、ソーラパネルからコントローラにつなぐ端子接続部が焼損した。【原因】は、使用していた家庭用屋内配線用のΦ1.6ｍｍ銅線をつかってしまい、取り込み電流に対して接触抵抗による発熱が焼損部分で許容を超えたためと思われる。また、カバーの熱を持ちやすい個所を点検しにくい構造がそれに気つけなかった要因。　【対策】焼損した太陽光パネルの負極接続コネクターと、DC出力の端子コネクタ（使用していない）と入れ替え修理し、配線を変え、接触抵抗をより小さくし、さらに導体断面積大きく取れるものにした。【所感】このような事象をユーザが未然に気付けるよう取説の注意喚起を入れるべき。それは、『家庭用屋内配線用のΦ1.6ｍｍ銅線を使用するなどすると、焼損する恐れがある』旨を明記すべきだ。また、配線結線部を容易に触ったり、目視で点検できるようにカバーが接続部を覆い隠さないで済むように、コネクターがよく見えるような形状すべきである。なお、今回それをするために、コネクター周りのカバーを切除しメンテナンス性を向上させている。間違いの根本は、使用するケーブル仕様がかかれているがAWGになじみがなかったこと。それで、今まで問題の起きなかった家庭用屋内配線用のΦ1.6ｍｍ中実銅線でいいだろうと考えていた。しかし、実際は35Aを超える電流を取り出すことができたこのMTTPコントローラでは、配線接続部が、それがゆえにより熱を持ってしまったようだ。稼働初期から、別途サーモカメラで確認しながら注意して運用し、どのような配線構成がよいのか、模索しながら改善してきており、どの部位も50℃以下になるように気を付けていたが、どうやらサーモカメラの画像記録をよく見ると７０℃近くになっていたことを見落としていたようだ。今回焼損した部分は、本体下部にある太陽光パネルからの負極配線接続部の最奥の部分で、その取り出し配線部分も、通常の使用時では、死角になっており確認が行き届かなかった。あるとき、さらによい発電をさせるため、熱を少し持っている感じの配線を発熱による損失をなくそうと、一本から二本にしようとしたときに、配線接続コネクターの開閉ができないことに気づいた。そして、確認の結果、コネクター内部でその筐体部材が溶け一部焦げていたことが判明し慌てた。最後に言及した部分の写真を添付する。従来使っていた結線方法と、焼損の個所、現取説の様子、本体カバーをカットし点検しやすくした状態と損傷を免れたコネクターとの交換後の様子、改善した接続方法を写真で示す。さらに、温度分布が改善された様子を従来品、改善前後の配線の接続端部の様子も示す。参考になればとおもう。

Works well at charging and monitoring my 4x100 watt panels with 2x100 ah batteries.

Initially, I bought a Rover 30 for my solar panels back in 2022. It failed after 6 months. Renogy would not honor the warranty because they said the charge controller for my wind generator voided it, even though there was nothing in the warranty language that prohibited it.After 1.5 years with an unbranded hybrid MPPT that could take wind, I decided to take the wind offline, add two more panels. The Rover 40 seemed to make sense in that application. I hoped that this time the Renogy, which does well in converting high voltage low amp current from the panels to 24V/high amp charging current, would serve its purpose well.For the first couple weeks, it did very well. But now about once a day, I have to take off, reposition, and re-connect the battery cables. It work fine for a while, and then stop charging. Then I am running straight off the batteries until they run down. Seems the battery cables will not stay connected despite my best efforts.I've noticed in different reviews, others have also had issues with their terminals. One person complained that the screw stripped out, which suggests to me they were trying the get a good, lasting connection. I don't think this problem is unique to me.Since I am still within 30 days and since I had poor experience with their customer service previously, I'm not taking any chances. I've orderd a Vectron to replace this, and as soon as it arrives this thing is going back into the box and back to Amazon.No more Renogy products for me. I'm done with them.

Habe schon den kleinen Bruder 20ah einige Jahre genutzt läuft zuverlässig ! Klare Kaufempfehlung wer sich das bt 1 bluetooth modul kauft sollte beim anmelden mit der App das gps am Handy anschalten sonst keine Verbindung!!!!!!! Das BT 2 Modul passt nicht das hat einen anderen Stecker!

Easy to install, work great. Installed about 6 months ago. Each controller runs (2) 200 watt panels and charges a 280 ah battery. In total my system has (4) 200 watt panels, (2) 40 amp solar controllers and (2) 280Ah lithium iron phosphate batteries. For a total of 560 ah. This is on a boat, it also runs a 3000 watt inverter/charger and a 40 amp dc to dc charger. No issues so far however I don’t really tax the system very much. Plenty of reserve for a night on the hook.

Working well

Great replacement for the PWM controller that came with our Renogy Solar kit. Initially we had the Renogy PWM 30 AMP controller and it was an entry level controller in all respects. The previous controller was limited to a 12 volt battery source had 2 lead pairs, one for solar panel connection and the other for the battery side connection. Any load connected to the battery array had to be connected directly to the batteries and was not governed by the controller. Also you had to rely on LED indicator lights To determine when the controller was in charge mode versus float mode. Adequate for an entry level controller but not great. Now lets talk about this controller.First, this controller is capable of 12 or 24 volt wiring installations. 24 volt DC is superior to 12 volt DC because it cuts the Amperage draw in half on the DC end. A 1.2 Amp TV running on AC/120 volts will require 12 Amps on the 12v-DC end to meet the same 140 Watt requirement. A 24 volt DC setup will reduce the amperage requirement down to 6 amps on DC, which means your DC wiring gauge doesn’t have to be as robust when supporting a 24 volt application.Secondly, the LCD display is great and is a must for a solar charge controller. It’s not enough to know that the solar cells are charging the battery, you may also want to know how “fast” they are charging the battery and whether or not the panels should be angled to reach optimized charge rate. The LCD screen also provides a percentage estimate of battery remaining in addition to the amps that are being supplied by the panels, along with a running amp-hour accumulation of charge provided the panels over a period of time and current battery voltage.Third, it has a pair of positive/negative load leads that permit connecting appliance loads up to 20 Amps DC. It’s not necessary to use the load leads for connecting the devices that run off the battery, but the added advantage of using them is that your battery array is protected from over-consumption, as the leads shut off usage on the battery once it reaches a certain level of discharge in order to protect the battery array.I’ve only used the new controller once, but the instructions were easy to follow and I made a laminated copy of the LED and Menu options as a quick reference guide that will go along with the kit on camping trips. Currently the array powers my 400 Watt (4x100W) kit and 2 VMAX 125ah batteries wired in parallel, but I am seriously thinking of doubling the panel array and adding 2 more batteries in a series/parallel configuration to take advantage of the 24 volt capabilities of this controller.Quick Note on the 100 Watt Renogy panels:When I measured the charge current of the 4 x 100 watt panels connected in Parallel I noted an 18.5 amp charge rate on the new controller or ~4.6 amps per panel. That seemed low to me given that 400 watts/12v is around 33.3 amps, or 8.33 amps per panel. In discussions with Renogy support I found out that the 100 Watts is calculated at 17.9 volts * 5.7 amps, where they use the maximum charge voltage by each of the panels as basis for the calculation. Just something to be aware of when you are reading sub-5 amps per panel charge rate on your controller.This new controller works as advertised, was relatively inexpensive for what it does, and I may update the review again in 12 months after running it a few more times for a consistency check.

This controller is awsome. LOTS of info up on the screen telling you where and how much energy is being used and how much is coming in. Even has a temperture reader. The mounting brakets are super useful aswell. No issues yet after 2 weeks of use

I wanted another Tracer 40 Amp - these are already trusted at my remote property, but apparently obsolete. Rover seems to be Tracer's replacement. The algorithm is great - power conservation from PV to BAT tested well. Two main complaints: Although 8 AWG did fit in the BAT+/- terminals, it's very difficult to get wires in the BAT and PV terminals and feel confident they are engaged. It also feels like standard torque for 8 and 10 AWG wire will break the terminals. Second item is that the user's manual left out major portions of what the operator needs to do to access necessary programming screens - it took an extra day of messing with the Rover to essentially add notes to the manual to complete what was missing. On the plus side, Rover does not use a dorky extra, expensive terminal to program that will be dead/destroyed when it's needed later. It can use USB software to set it up - my experience is that a kid with zits will have changed USB so much in ten years that no laptop then will even have a port to support it. Note to Renogy: I buy Renogy because past experience shows the somewhat premium price pays off well in reliability. I hope that Renogy insists on top quality in the future. Note to customers: I installed marine cable to large DIN rail terminals underneath the Rover, so those Rover terminals only need to be torqued well one time. Hint on programming screens you can't find - try UP and DOWN keys, not RT/ENTER. Battery parameter adjustments are only available in USER BATTERY TYPE.