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Reviewed in the United States on February 9, 2025
I love this glass bed. If you purchase some cheap hairspray on Amazon as well; it’s the perfect combo. If I have adhesion issues it has 100% of the time been a z offset problem. Very durable and has probably seen 40-45 prints so far on my Ender 3.
Ben B Jammin'
Reviewed in the United States on February 20, 2025
I bought one of these after my stock bed had some issues with prints not sticking. But since I started using this, as long as the bed is level, the prints always stick. I don't need to use glue or print a raft or anything else. I've even done some prints that were about 5 inches high and only 6mm wide at the bottom and they printed just fine.The one thing to take note of is that since this is glass, it can't bend, so you will need to use other methods of removing prints. I use a scraper or a tiny screw driver.In any case, this was a great purchase.
Cuong Tu
Reviewed in the United States on February 13, 2025
I print primarily in PLA and PETG and wanted something better than a sticker. I chose glass over PEI because I've heard and seen horror stories involving PETG tearing massive holes in PEI plates. To print, I flipped the glass over to the smooth side, put some glue stick on the plate and that's it. Sometimes, I have problems with bed adhesion, but lowering the z-offset by a little bit solves any problems with that. Other than adhesion, I don't have any problems with leveling at all. This is a great upgrade over the regular stickers provided.
Jeremy S.
Reviewed in the United States on June 19, 2024
A glass bed is worth it for sure, but you need to know the following.This bed is not magnetic, so how do you hold it in place? Use bed clips, you want thumb screw clips. put the thumb screw part on the under side. You can lay the glass bed on the bottom half of the prior magnetic bed. Ofcourse you want to remove the top half, the actual bed first. Now where to put those bed clips? when you level your bed that little pressure sensor hangs around and will bump your clips at certain points. Trial and error works well here. Before your bed and bed clips (separate order) arrive go ahead and level your bed once to watch exactly what areas will be out of the way. Once you get the new bed go ahead and install it with the clips, level your bed and make sure there is no hitting of the sensor or nozzle and bed clips. The clips dont have to be super tight just good and firm. If you try using tape instead of clips you will leave residue on the bed and underside, I strongly suggest avoiding tape.Clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol, I use microfiber towels which come in packs, youll want a pack. I tried using finger nail polish remover to clean the bed and that joker made the bed lose its magic, prints are skating all around now. Removing the bed is now more work as you have the clips to undo and redo so be prepared to let the bed cool before removing prints. I use a razor to pry under the print once its cooled some and that helps pop it up.Your z axis has a switch somewhere that it physically touches. Watch a video on how to adjust this z axis switch now that your bed is much taller than before.I have not needed to use glue or cement so far, and I am replacing my bed that I used nail polish remover on. But I do have an enclosure which keeps air temps warmer (36c ish) your larger prints may have corners lifting due to cooling and reheating. A glass bed with an enclosure is a good combo. Bed cement is not compatible with all bed types fyi. The glass bed holds strong at hot temps and lets go very easy after cooling.Glass expands and contracts with temperature change and can bend and sag a little over time so do some more solid research on glass beds. I hope this helps you!
Kevin Reid
Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2023
I use the plate for my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I did have to replace the binder clips due to the print head hitting them with square bracket clips ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09L16TNN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 ) on the side but they work great. I only print **PLA on this surface as PETG is not suggested for use with a glass surface. But all I have to do is use a *razor scraper to remove the print or lift up an edge of a large print and slide a metal scraper under the print to pop it off with a nice flat side on the bottom. I do a quick spray of alcohol on the surface, give it a wipe with a cloth and its ready to go again. As you can see from the photo it looks like it has good adhesion. its made life super easy and productive, can't suggest it enough.
Tracymom
Reviewed in the United States on December 25, 2022
Some quick tips for people buying this:It requires a completely clean surface so get a rag or dishcloth wet it with water and clean any dust or finger grease that might be on there. Paper towels are ok but leave papery dabrees unless designed to clean glass. Such towels probably work but I haven't tried them.The glass is really stable and has a top layer that makes it super easy to pull the print off at room temperature so you don't need metal bits and you should use plastic flats to pry it off if necessary.The glass is also much thicker than the plate that comes with the ender 3 so make sure to bring the build plate as low as you can for initial calibration.Keep in mind that the glass will bend slightly if the heating bed itself is warped. I found that sticky notes under the glass plate are more than enough to solve this issue with some trial and error.I had difficulty with adhesion when I first got it and ended up adding an extra 10 degrees to the build plate during the initial layers print and slowed the initial print speed down to about 15 mm as well as the speed between. With these settings, the plastic has enough time to grip the plate and will remain sturdy for the rest of the print.I created the settings in Cura.Even with the difficulty of setup, I will defiantly buy it again should the need arise.
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