I use this to digitize my 35mm slides when I was stationed in Thailand. Once set up it only takes seconds to digitize a slide. My equipment is as follows Sony A7R2 full frame camera, macro extension tubes, A Tacomar 28mm f3.5 manual lens and a tripod. A good photo editing software is needed for the best results. For the price this is very good. Well worth the money.

Using this on my Nikon D850 to digitize negatives to positive, works great, price is much less than the Nikon brand & includes light, also to mention I’m using this on Nikon 105mm f2.8 macro lens,

I must have scanned over a 100 negatives and slides with ease. This the Bhat in a long line of scanners I tried during the years.

I have a Canon 100mm F F2.8 macro with a APS-C dSLR, which is advertised in the the instructions as it's first compatibility option. The problem is there are aren't enough extension tubes to extend long enough to capture a full 35mm frame. While the film holder does slide around a bit I could get around these issues because everything else is designed sturdy. However, I can't see how anybody with a 100mm macro and doesnt want 30% of the frame cropped can use this product.

I found this product clumsy and difficult to use. It is a waste of money IMHO.

As a professional photographer utilizing a Sony full-frame camera, I am thoroughly impressed with the Film Digitizing Adapter Set with LED Light. This adapter has become an indispensable tool in my workflow, significantly enhancing the efficiency and quality of my film digitization process.Seamless Integration and Build QualityThe adapter integrates effortlessly with my Sony full-frame camera, providing a secure and stable connection that instills confidence during use. Its robust construction ensures durability, making it a reliable companion for both studio and on-location shoots.Exceptional PerformanceThe LED light source included in the set delivers consistent and even illumination, crucial for capturing the fine details and accurate colors of my negatives and slides. This feature has notably improved the sharpness and clarity of my digitized images, meeting the high standards required for professional work.User-Friendly DesignThe adapter's intuitive design allows for quick setup and easy operation, streamlining my workflow. Its compatibility with various lenses adds to its versatility, accommodating different project requirements without the need for additional equipment.Versatility Across FormatsDesigned to convert 35mm negatives and slides into digital photos, this adapter set has proven to be a versatile tool in preserving and enhancing my film archives. Its performance has consistently met my expectations, delivering high-quality digital reproductions of my analog work.ConclusionIncorporating the Film Digitizing Adapter Set with LED Light into my photography toolkit has been a game-changer. Its superior build quality, exceptional performance, and user-friendly design make it an invaluable asset for any professional photographer looking to digitize film with precision and ease. I highly recommend this adapter set to fellow photographers seeking to elevate their film digitization process.

Woks fine except it is difficult to kekp steady , I have to reposition the viewer at every slide,even if my camera is on a tripod, I should have bought the holder

The product is made of good quality aluminum and fits very well together. I tested it with my Sony A7iv camera with the Sony FE 90mm F2.8 macro lens and it works like a charm! The only difference I found was that i only needed to use the #1, #2 (x1), #3 components to enable me to capture the images at 1:1 ratio. In the provided manual, the manufacturer recommends #1, #2 (x2), #3 components. I found it works like this too, but you will have to focus a bit further, so you won't be able to get 1:1 image ratio. Otherwise, everything works the way it's supposed to. The slide/negative mounts fit well and do not move much. For a light source, one could use day light or a dedicated diffusing light mounted in front of the #1 diffuser that comes with the kit. All in all, a great product!

I scanned over 500 negatives in the first two days of owning this. It works very well. Most complicated part is getting the color balance correct when you flip the negative scans into positive with Lightroom (which has nothing to do with this product). I am happy with the consistent, high quality results. The only thing I wish they would add is a 25mm spacer in addition to the 50mm (X2) that are provided so I could get the film a little closer to minimize cropping with the particular lens and camera combination that I have.

some of the reviews mentioned all plastic,that is incorrect. the extension tubes are made of solid metal, it's not flimsy, but nice, solid, and expertly milled, i can see why this product is priced above $50. there are multiple tubes and variations to fit the most popular macro lenses that's used for slide reproduction. the film holder is plastic, and functional. what surprised me was the packaging it was well put together, every part was individually packaged, there's foam, and there's no rattling when you shake the box. instructions are clear and written in multiple languages. the only fault was the film and slide holders being made of plastic, but i can live with that.

The product is an excellent and cost-effective alternative to the Nikon ES 2- Film Digitizing Adapter. Looks quite well made and is supplied plenty of stepping rings to fit a host of lenses, across various Camera systems.It’s an ideal product for those who wish to scan their Films using DSLR/Mirrorless Cameras.

Equipment:Nikon D7200AF-S Micro NIKKOR 40mm f2.8GJJC ES-2 (this kit)JJC Photo Slide and Film Light (companion kit purchased previously, https://www.amazon.com/JJC-Digitizing-10-Levels-Brightness-Backlight/dp/B09PMFPDHQ)Likes:The system is easy to use by itself.Pairing with the JJC backlight kit works OK.Slide holder is easy to use.Dislikes:The slide holder indexing isn't quite scaled correctly (see example photo 1) requiring adjustment of the strip in the rail. It's not a deal breaker but it is obnoxious. I'd rather be able to scan move scan.The spring tension is loose so the strip rail doesn't stay square with the rest of the frame, requires frequent adjustment. (If you take it apart, which I suggest anyway (see below), you can bend the springs a bit to get more tension).The gap between the film rail on the light and the rail on the ES-2 is huge, requiring a large sheet of fabric to prevent light leak which WILL ruin exposures unless shooting in pitch black.The included pin spacers to attach the light to the ES-2 put the backlight too far away, allowing for even more light leak.The rails, in addition to the miss-timing of the bridges, have rounded corners and aren't quite square. Add to that the thickness and the angles when using a macro lens at such close distance and you're going to have to crop down pretty far. If you think ahead and leave a fair border around your shots you should be fine but it's not ideal. I would have preferred metal with sharp corners honestly but we can't trust people to not run with scissors so...Suggested improvements (DIY)If you're combining the ES-2 with the light kit bust out the screw drivers. You'll need a Philips #4 as all the screws are the same small size. On the ES-2 remove the flat field plate and replace the screws without it. The second flat field plate cuts too much light to be useful and introduces some weird vignetting. You'll also need to remove the rail springs as they require the plate to function and we're going to use the ones on the light instead. Wrap in cloth and store the flat field plate somewhere safe. Keep the springs in the same box but don't wrap them up with the plate to prevent scratching. That plate is still useful.Now ignore the plastic pin spacers they send with the kit. They're bulky, unreliable and place things too far away to be useful. Instead grab some M3 bolts, nuts and washers and "permanently" fix the two together. This is a much stronger union and puts the light at a pretty much perfect distance for imaging, at least with my setup (see gear above). With the #1 adapter tube ("permanently" installed in the ES-2 unless you want to make some more severe changes to the rig) I can push it all the way in and just get one edge of the film in the shot to see the negative number in the scan (example photo 4).Once you've got everything bolted together get some double sided Scotch tape and attach some 2mm craft foam baffles. This blocks 95% of the light leaks out. The example images were shot in a room with a large north facing window in the middle of the day with no appreciable light leak. The more careful you are with the placement of the foam the better your results will be. It's not the prettiest thing but it's a HUGE improvement.Overall the kit gets a 4 but I'm pretty tolerant and a dab hand at DIY. If you aren't as picky as I am the kit works great as packaged and intended to be used. If you're willing to put a bit more work in you can get even better results. All that said I'll probably gift this kit away with my mods and pick up something more hobby the hobby now that I've got some experience with the results. I'm willing to spend more to get them but you can't really beat the price here.

I've looked at other solutions from Canon & Nikon and had sticker shock.While I'm sure they are very well made, I just could not justify the cost.Yes, this is mostly made of plastic but it's a far cry form the $300-$800 setups I found people using on the internet.The light source works well and is very convenient by comparison to the other kluged-together setups I tried first.I will say you will be well served by rigging some sort of support system as this does extend out quite far from the camera and has the tendency to sag.This can be done at the hardware store or at the camera store.Luckily for me I had some old DSLR video rig hardware laying around and was able to put together a very stable rig. By no means do I think you need to buy all this stuff. I just happened to have it so I used what I had.You could probably put something together with some scraps of wood.It might not be as cool looking as my rig but you just need a way of supporting the setup.The other thing I discovered that will be true of any hardware you use is that processing the resultant files is not a one click endeavor. I won't delve too deep into the details but the reality is that different films will need different processing. Slides will clearly be much easier than negatives. I found a piece of software called Negative Lab Pro that seems promising. I have not used it yet but there is a free trial you can download to make sure it's worth the extra money. I've heard that Nikon has a software solution for some of their higher end cameras but I shoot Canon so…Good luck everyone