Beautiful to work with, perfect matte coverage. No streaking. Love it!

Very happy with the final result using this to finish a solid cherry quilt storage and display case that doubles as a bench. Had to be a bit careful when applying so that I didn't leave any drips or buildup but the result was perfect. Loved the cleanup with only water. The first coat raised the grain slightly but light sanding was all that was needed for the final two coats. Will totally use this product again for future woodworking needs.

I put two coats of this on a butcher block slab I cut and stained to create a standing desktop. This was my first time using poly at all, and first time staining anything in like 35 years too. Regardless it came out great!This was done almost a year ago now and my desktop still looks fantastic, no visible wear or issues of any kind. I used a brush to apply, it went down smooth and leveled well. I see no leftover brush marks in my work. For an amateur like me to get this kind of result, it has to be a good product!Now if only my stain of another brand had gone on as well, I’d be even happier. Ah well, it’s done now!

Looks great but wish it wasn’t so expensive.

I had a paint job that was properly prepped , cleaned, scuff sanded and the correct types of paint and still the new paint was chipping off. The only other option would have been to sand down to raw wood, and that was not an viable option. I bought this to try as a top coat. It is very good. Went on smoothly and evenly and dried to a nice hard finish. It's not magic though, my surface has still chipped a bit, but under the circumstances it is holding up remarkably well. Better than expected. On a properly painted surface it would be amazing.

I love this product- it’s pricey but reliable and a little goes a long way. I used it over a dry oil based wood stain when the oil based top coat bubbled, was uneven and was so slow to dry that household floaters were getting into the finish- had to wipe it off. I applied this product as a test go and it was fabulous- dried fast enough that I had no inclusions and although I needed 2 coats it still didn’t consume a great deal of product. I rolled it on with a foam roller for even delivery. First I used it on dresser drawers, then on stair runners that I had been dreading to finish because of possibly getting things trapped in the finish, and also we need to use the stairs. It’s my go-to top coat now.

I had a small job of 3 barstools that were wood stained but I wanted them dark and all the same color. The Fired Earth paint looked great but I needed to seal not only to be sure the paint wouldn't rub off, but to give it more of a 'slick' surface to slide on and off the stools. I didn't need an entire quart for that and have plenty left over but there will be other jobs.I stirred the sealer well. I used a paintbrush to apply. I was a little worried at first because some reviews made me think this would be a little more difficult than it actually was, but I'm confident now to do other projects.I used this over an exterior paint because I like the color but this was not oil-based paint. I put on two coats of paint and let that dry a couple of days, then I used this sealer.I took the stools outside to be sure there was ventilation though this doesn't have a strong smell. It was easy to apply. Very runny and watery (I have the water-based formula), which helped me to apply it easily, but it is drippy so make sure you put something underneath or around to protect other surfaces. I worked rather quickly since the humidity is very low here this time of year. If you don't work somewhat quickly, it begins to dry out a little and becomes a little 'tacky.'I did two coats -- I let the first coat dry about 3 hours, then I lightly sanded, very lightly, with one of those sanding 'sponges' (they look like sponges but are very light sanders), wiped off the dust residue, and then applied the second coat, which I let dry about 4 hours before I brought my stools back in the house. I don't notice any odor in my house from the stain.They look beautiful! Satin is just enough that they aren't highly glossed but have a slight sheen. I am very happy with out they turned out. I'd love to try the matte on some rocking chairs I painted last year.The only thing that irritated me is days after I ordered my quart, the price went down $5--this is how it goes on Amazon, so nothing to do about that, but it still made me irritated. Other than that, I'm happy.

I was looking for a topcoat for a mahogany piece that I had bleached and did not want the wood finish to darken it. This topcoat maintained the bleached/natural look of the wood and was easy to apply. I also did not need to apply a lot. Expensive but worth it.

Again excellent finish when applied to rollered paint using foam brush

Love it

To cut right to the chase: I am extremely pleased with the results I achieved with this product. I am an experienced "hobbyist" woodworker but still get apprehensive with the finishing stage of a project. The GF finish allowed me to achieve my goals: a satin finish on a maple cabinet top with no yellowing or color change.The cabinet top is a glued-up maple panel approximately 55" x 15". I sanded it to 320 with a Bosch random orbit sander prior to applying any finish. I cleaned up the sawdust after sanding and between coats of finish with a tack cloth. I sanded and finished BOTH the top and bottom of the panel. I did not count the number of coats, but three was not enough. I am guessing I stopped at eight coats.For the first half-dozen coats I used the finish straight out of the can, after mixing thoroughly (required to get the satin particles off the bottom of the can, I would say 5 to 7 minutes of stirring with a small paint stick). The last couple coats I thinned the finish quite substantially after pouring the needed amount into a small paint pail. Since the finish in the can is of a milky consistency let me use a milk analogy: think of what's in the can as the consistency of the half-and-half you put in your coffee. My last couple coats were the consistency of skim milk with a little water added. I found that the thinner final coats allowed the brush marks to relax quite a bit more than in the thicker coats. I would recommend thinning for the final coats; if I was doing it over again I would probably use the out-of-the-can consistency only for maybe ther first two or three coats and then start thinning from there.I used a good "traditional" paintbrush, a Purdy Nylox "Dale" model (soft bristle) with a beveledf tip, 2-1/2" wide. GF recommends a foam brush. I can't comment on this as I did not try it, but for sure the brush marks were my biggest issue. This is why I attempted the thinning (successfully, as it turned out) described above. I am not a fan of foam brushes but would have tried one had the thinning not worked.I sanded between coats using successively finer grits. 320 on the first couple coats, then 400, then 600, 800, and finally 1000 automotive paper prior to the last couple coats. As others have observed here, this finish dries completely quite quickly. In my case I left most coats to dry at least 8 hours and by that time the sanding produced a fine white powder with no stickiness at all. This was easily cleaned with a brush-equipped shop vac followed up by a tack cloth. (BTW I did use the cheapie oil-based tack cloths you can pick up at Lowes with no oil-vs-water problems.)I also used this finish an a couple of maple plywood shelves with solid maple edging for the inside of the cabinet. No issues here either and the color is completely natural. I also put a coat of Butcher's wax on these shelves maybe a day after the last coat - worked great after being buffed out with a wool pad on the Bosch random orbit sander. Will probably do this to the top eventually as well.The things I would be most careful to look out for are BRUSH MARKS and DRIPS. I addressed the brush mark issue by thinning the finish. All of my surfaces were flat and horizontal so it was pretty easy to avoid drips. I could see this being a bigger issue for vertical surfaces, so be careful if you have those or any detailed carvings or turnings.Very easy cleanup with warm water and a touch of True-Green cleaner. I stay away from hand soap for these kinds of things as those often contain various oils. I found little or no VOC or odor with this finish, another significant positive for my in-home (basement) workshop.It goes without saying that this finish is relatively expensive compared to the Minwax at one of the box stores.But the bottom line for me, again, I got what I was after which is a nice satin finish with a natural color maple cabinet top. Would definitely use this finish again.