I bought this specifically to pour a log pond at my HO Scale sawmill. It worked great. I got two pours out of this product, which was exactly as expected. The surface was mirror smooth and hard, as advertised. Very low odor. I found it a little difficult to get out all the bubbles, but I went back over it with drops of Mod Podge gloss to give the water some motion, and now I can't see any bubbles at all. Very pleased.

I have bought this epoxy several times for various craft projects (jewelry, coasters, even a bar counter top) and all have turned out great. The instructions included in the package are quite extensive, and many more resources can be found online. This seems to be the recommended brand for pour-on epoxy, and is the only brand I have used.When using, it is very important to mix EXACTLY equal parts of the resin & the hardener. You cannot just dump the two bottles together & expect it to work correctly. It is worth spending a few dollars to get plastic mixing cups with printed measurements on the side (they can even be reused - just let any remaining epoxy dry for a few days & then peel out). Also, be sure to do double mixing (mix in one container for 2 minutes as directed, and then dump into a 2nd container an mix for an additional 2 minutes).The only issue that I have had with this product was from letting it sit in the mixing cup for too long before pouring. After researching online, I found that you are better off dumping the product out onto whatever surface you are covering, and then go back and spread it out with a wooden or plastic putty knife. The resin & hardener start a chemical reaction when combined, and the smaller the container, the faster the reaction. When I left the epoxy in the mixing cup too long (trying to cover coasters 1 at a time) it got the consistency of cottage cheese and had to be thrown away. The next attempt, I poured a few tablespoons onto the center of each coaster, and then went back and spread the epoxy. You have about 15 minutes to work with the epoxy before it starts to set up, as long as you get it out of the mixing container immediately.The recommended surface area seems accurate, but assumes a pour depth of approximately 1/8". When pouring my counter top, it had pennies underneath, and the pour depth in between the pennies was about 1/4". This required a brushed on coat (seal coat), and then a poured on coat (flood coat) 5 hours later. The epoxy hardened correctly, and I didn't have any issues.For smaller projects, using a straw to blow on the bubbles will work to pop them. However, with a larger project you will need a blow torch or BBQ lighter. Also, be sure you are working in a totally clean room (this stuff is a magnet for dog & people hair for the first 24 hours) and wipe any drips off with a foam paint brush before the product starts to harden. It will take 24 hours to get past the tacky phase, and at least 72 hours to fully cure. Also, the temp of the room must be regulated between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit.There are TONS of videos online. This is a great product, as long as you follow the instructions EXACTLY. Do not eyeball your measurements, temp, etc.

I bought this product to finish the top of a teak table my husband made to use as a small bar in our dining room. I never used a resin product before so I must admit that even after reading the directions and following them to a tee, I did have some trouble getting the results to be perfect. In fact, the result is gorgeous, incredibly shiny and durable. The table top couldn't look better. I did have just a couple of air bubbles left at the end, but they are very tiny and not a big problem. But the hardest part for me was preventing the drips over the side from accumulating under the edge of the table. I had to use a chisel and a sander to remove these blobs that formed underneath the edge. I did tape it off completely but it was not enough to prevent these from forming, and they were hard to remove. I was able to re-stain the parts where I sanded to the wood on the bottom of the table. I ended up with a beautiful result and just a few bumps along the way.

I poured the glaze once mixed and thoroughly stirred over the wine cork coaster set offered on Amazon. The coasters came out very good. I did not expect the seams to give way to the chemical glaze and leak so be sure to place a 4ML thick hunk of plastic down or 5 sheets or so newspaper and cut the bottom of the cork so it has a nice flat surface and then Super Glue it into place within the coaster. They dry fast and you can mix and pour the glaze once it is nice and clear. The glaze levels out the coasters surface. It can withstand extreme heat as well. I learned the hard way trying to do the cork trivet set and failed to cut a flat edge on each cork and poured the glaze on and all the corks floated up that were not tightly wedged in- what a mess as I also discovered the seams on the trivet do not withstand the glaze mixture and leak- so the whole mess -once dried- was pitched in to file 13. Lesson learned. The coasters were mounted on some old wine glasses so the leaking would not cement the coasters to the thick sheet of plastic i was working on. Once the glaze is poured it will drip out of each corner until the glaze starts to firm up which takes about 3 hours. Let them dry and simply use a razor blade to remove the dried droplets from the bottom of the coasters- angle of the dangle is important as you do not want to cut into the wood- and if you take your time you will see just how easy it is to get the razor edge underneath the dried glaze drip on the bottom of each coaster and either shave each side flat again or some lift right off cleanly once unseated by the razor. Place the 4 rubber cushions on each corner of your coasters- they come with the coasters and you have a unique set of coasters with your favorite wines permanently frozen within the coaster. Watch the air bubbles and use a stir stick/lollipop stick/ paint stirrer stick and just pop them as the glaze is drying. I got 95% of the air bubbles out as between the corks having a whole in them from the cork screw, the corners of the coasters leaking thus each drip out will create a small air bubble and as long as you sit there and pop them over a period of about 3 hours- they will stop as the glaze will firm up. The glaze is an excellent idea if you wanted to drop a silver dollar into a container size you want the glaze to take the shape of and peel the container away once the glaze fully dries. I am not a craft's person as you may detect so this whole project was one big learning curve as i lost a lot of nice corks on the trivet fiasco- which, looking back, why I would not think to super glue the corks down- even with no glaze- is beyond me....I am sure most craft's people will know this and seat them properly. But you can glaze pictures onto food trays if the food tray has a nice lip to hold the glaze in and seal the photo's before super gluing them in. The picture sealer plastic sheets can be found on Amazon as well. Have fun- enjoy! Everyone will want to know where you bought your coasters!