Great line amazing quality and quantity amazing price can’t beat it

Excellent color and quailty!

This line is "strong" !!!Fighting a fish - greatSpool Capacity - greatCasting - greatTying Line, Lures or Bait - greatGetting Snagged on something - not so great (really bad).

It's Spider Wire. That's all you need to know, but it's worth mentioning that the color holds up better than most and the abrasion resistance seems better than a few other brands I've also purchased. Spider Wire sets the bar.

Works great and has great casting for my open real. Haven’t noticed any tangling and vastly improves the sensitivity. Pretty durable thus far.

I bought the translucent based on the product videos I saw on its website for my travel set up. The translucent is a bit of a gimmick. It is just as visible under water as any other color the sell. I use a leader anyway and I still like the product alot. It behaves exceedingly well on the reel, is very strong and casts farther than any line I've ever put on. My first cast with the line on was to the far side of a pond. I thought I could just about reach the far shore on the longest cast with a 1 ounce Kastmaster. I almost gasped the second I cast -- it was like a rocket ship. By the time I got it together and closed my bail I was past the far side of the pond, past the rock embankment, and 10 yards into the grass. Really like the product so far.

Spiderwire is the only braided line use,casts great and is very durable!

The line is sting like a bull.The only problem is it’s faded but I really don’t care cause it works and it works great.

waiting for spring to use.

Although the overall rating for this product is high, I'm noticing that the "top reviews" seem to be decidedly negative. As someone who only started using braided line recently, I think I know why some of those people complain about the product.Because mono is so much thicker, many people grow up learning that you only use as much test strength as you absolutely need. But I think that approach is suboptimal when it comes to braided line.The first SpiderWire I purchased was 10-lb test. Honestly, it was not a great experience. 10-lb SpiderWire feels almost "wispy" when compared to mono or fluoro. On a practical level, this made it very hard for me to tie knots with it. The line doesn't have much "heft" to it (which could be seen as a major factor in its favor), but that insubstantial feel made it extremely difficult to manipulate the narrow line in my meaty hands. Even worse, I had numerous experiences, in my first couple fishing outings, of the line (and my lure) breaking right off and flying into the river. Initially, I didn't quite understand what was happening, but now I'm nearly certain, if you're using one of the very-light strengths (e.g., 10-lb test), that it does not hold up very well to SIDE abrasion. In other words, if you're throwing something with treble hooks on it, there's a good chance that those hooks bump up against your line - and quite quickly, sever it. If you're fishing some place that has hazardous stuff under the surface (especially, oyster shells), it can chew up the braid quickly. You can imagine how disconcerting that can be when you launch a $10 rattle trap into the water. The wispy nature of the line also made it more susceptible to loops and knots developing on the spool.Most of these issues went away when I went to 50-lb test. You might think that 50-lb test is ridiculous for your "normal" fishing. And maybe it is - if you're using mono or fluoro. But the braid is generally thinner, so you can "get away with" using heavier tests. Maybe 50-lb is overkill. I've read of a lotta guys using 20/30-lb braid. I just enjoy the 50-lb because I can still fit a ton of it on my reel and it's sufficient to haul in monsters - or to uproot trees if your line gets stuck. The heavier test is also sooooo much easier to manipulate when tying lures. When I'm casting for distance, even the 50-lb can still get looped and knotted if I'm not careful. You can't let it hang up there in the wind. You also need to avoid "helicoptering" your line if you're casting something like a drop shot or a Carolina rig. I suppose that's true of any type of line. But it's especially true with braid. Braid has no "memory" (which is a huge PLUS), but that lack of memory also means that it gives little resistance (torque) and twisting forces. On a practical level, this means that, if you repeatedly helicopter your rig as your casting out, that constant twisting will eventually manifest itself in line loops/knots. Since I switched to the heavier test, I've had no more occurrences of lures simply breaking off as I cast them.As other have noted, braid is typically dyed. You'll notice this if you spool a large volume of it through your hands, as the dye will eventually rub off on you. I suppose that's not really a great thing. And I've read where others say that the line goes white/pale if you use it for a long time. I tend to change my line more often than most, so maybe that's why this hasn't been a concern of mine.One more note: Braid isn't nearly as "slippery" as mono or fluoro. This means that, when you're tying knots, they have a tendency to cinch up before you get them fully tightened. Initially, I really struggled with this. I'd wrap one end of the line around pliers, wrap the other end around another pair of pliers, and then pull with extreme force just to get the knot snug against the tackle. But the solution to this issue is so simple that I feel silly about how long it took me to realize it. All you need to do is spray a little water on the knot (or, if you're trying something on-the-fly onshore, just put the nascent knot in your mouth for a few second and soak it with your own saliva). That little bit of moisture is all you need to allow the knot to clinch tightly with minimal pulling.Now that I've gotten accustomed to braid, I don't really have any desire to use anything else. It feels insanely strong. I can pack much more of it on my reel. I don't have to worry about what might happen if I manage to hook a fish that's "too big". I strongly prefer it to other options.

Very strong for its thin diameter. Doesn’t stretch.

👍

These are the best reels are not only great in quality but super easy on the budget! A good majority of the guide boats in Homer ak use these reels and by far are the most popular reel in Cook Inlet for halibut, Ling, and Salmon! I have the squall 30s for my halibut.LINE (I am using this setup for Trolling kings in homer ak and can be used for rock bass and such....lings too)This is how I spool Braided line on my reels.Braided line is EXPENSIVE! If you spool 300yds of braided line it will fill less than half of your reel up with line. You WANT that reel fuller to its top end in order to get the full reel and drag capabilities. On these reels one revolution of the reel handle is 3' of incoming line but if you only have half the spool filled, it will be much less than that. Fighting a fish or checking bait in 40' of water isn't that noticeable but 200' of water IS! so here is a trick to fill the reel up with only 250-300yds of expensive braided line and less than a $7 of backing material.Use a Blood knot to tie Dacron to spool base. MAKE SURE TO TAPE THE STRING DOWN! You don't want slippage!Start with 35yards of 80lb Dacron, moisten the string on the spool with a light oil to prevent corrosion on your reel,spool on another 45yds for a total of 80 yds of just Dacron.... (this is the stuff i used from amazon) Then use an Albright Knot (google it) to fasten your braided 65lb line to finish out your spool. I buy the 1500 yard spools........ 1500yds divided by 5 reels is 300yds of braid or 1500/6= 250yds......I do 300yds and get 5 reels out of it. The Dacron 80lb comes in 400 yards so 400yds/5reels= 80yds.... I can spool each rod brand new at $34 per reel...The kicker is I only have to respool the braided 300yd portion which saves a TON of money since you only have to go to the "backing" material. Plus even if you want to respool the Dacron backing it only costs less than $7 to replace.