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Reviewed in the United States on January 17, 2025
My husband said it gets 5 stars
Keyz
Reviewed in the United States on September 28, 2024
This is recommended if you’re having TIPM issues. But of course the only down fall is that your gas gauge can’t be monitored!
Eric Holland
Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2024
Found the repair to use this in place of the DODGE RAM 1500 junk TPIM, this worked and fixed the DODGE> fuel pump
Amazin Customer
Reviewed in the United States on February 11, 2024
Most information you will find on this jewel will have you plug it into the rear power outlet port, but it’s better to use the ASD 3 relay fuse that way you can maintain the safety interrupt on the fuel pump.
Jason Kallam
Reviewed in the United States on January 29, 2024
Helps keep the fuel pump open while starting your jeep. Works as described.
Candace dimond
Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2024
You need all four fuses in the wire filled
Austin
Reviewed in the United States on April 18, 2024
I used it to fix the cranking issue on my 2011 Vw Routan. It needed the fuel pump relay bypassed in order for the vehicle to crank. This little wire helped me bypass it and my van cranks on first crank every time now!
Chris Owen
Reviewed in the United States on December 13, 2023
So the fuse share device works in this circuit. When looking at the block the side I marked with red is the shared power side. The other side is the fused to the original component and the share/tap Now the TOP is the shared power and the lower is the original circuit. In my case, I used the IGN (#6 I looked up my fuses in my vehicle for this) fuse in the Chevy, the power side is to the RIGHT in the fuse box the protected device is on the left side so when you plug in the tap the fuses face away from you towards the firewall. Using a volt meter or light remove the fuse and see which side is HOT when switched on if you turn it the other way you are using BOTH fuses to pull all the amperage across the fuse for the device you are tapping from and then the fuse to the device you are tapping to which could overload the lower fuse.Now the relay needs one wire to the 85 side or 86 for the coil add a ground to the side you did not use. again i looked up MY fuse location for my vehicle so will put it in as a note like before.87 and 30. So what we did here is use a Specialized ECU Repair Car Fuse Holder Connector - Mini ATM, 32V, 20 Amp, 16 Gauge, Red Wire Cable - Comfortably Tap and Test Automotive Circuits, Perfect for Hard To Reach Fusebox Panels - 11.5 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTRNYR1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details and cut one side of that and connecting it to the 30 and 87 of the relay so the same process works with that, the left side should be the Fuel Pump (#20) and the right is the powered side.So for consistency let's connect the 87 (#20) to the fuel pump side of the adapter and for the 30 post let's make that the power side of the adapter so that when the engine is engaged it closes the contacts so the pump works as normal using the power supplied by that fuse position. If you have no power on either side you need to find which side is the pump and connect a power lead to the battery and connect that to 30 on the relay to power the pumpA benefit of using the design I am posting is if for some reason that power starts working as it should the relay won't need to be removed.the relay i grabbed EPLZON JD1912 Relay 4 Pin 40A 12V SPST Car Truck Van Motorcycle Boat Relay (Pack of 2 pcs) https://www.amazon.com/EPLZON-JD1912-Relay-Truck-Motorcycle/dp/B09LLH7WYK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=316OI6F7CUW97&keywords=automotive+relay+12v+40a&qid=1702436867&s=industrial&sprefix=automotive+relay%2Cindustrial%2C134&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1My next version when I get around to updating it will use MGI SpeedWare Fused Relay 40A 12vDC 4-Pin SPST with Harness Socket and 30A LED Fuse (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/MGI-SpeedWare-Harness-Socket-2-Pack/dp/B07BTL7XG3/ref=sr_1_45?crid=316OI6F7CUW97&keywords=automotive+relay+12v+40a&qid=1702436979&s=industrial&sprefix=automotive+relay%2Cindustrial%2C134&sr=1-45So it depends on how intricate or easy you want to do this. This is definitely the simplest bypass to make.If the seller wants to send me another of these I will make a manual to use the way it's set up. I already had the idea to make this bypass as posted and needed some parts to do it and his device fit the build mostly with my customizations. His would use power from the fuse location that is switched and if you do not check out the wiring could cause a short or not actually fix the issue depending on the lacking or presence of power to the fuel pump This is basically 2 power taps sliced together. the TOP is the splice fused side the lower is the original circuit for the device you are tapping from. Also in EVERY fuse block, you have a POWER side that may always be powered or only powered when the ignition is on then a device side such as the Fuel pump or headlights or turn signals, the list goes on and on. The fuse is the "WEAK" point that if there is a short or overload it won't burn out the entire wire harness so you need to know if it is the RIGHT or LEFT side for power and then which side is the device you are needing to supply power too or break power that is constantly on and causing a drain of the battery.There are a few variables that need to be asked to then be answered. The wiring that provides power is rated and fused at a certain point which you DO NOT want to overload so be cautious in how you hook it up. If you do as I did and probe out which side is which the rest becomes easy following my notes above. I will do a video for a web site and tiktoc to post too.
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