Great harness for direct wiring the fuel pump. However, its described as "long wires". 10ft for the red 12v 10awg was way too short. Needed to buy another 10ft section of 10awg to reach the front of the vehicle and my 87 mustang is a pretty short car already. They really should up that to 20ft.

Very good quality, works great!

Better quality than expected came with diagram and all wires where labeled

This can be used for pretty much any equipment that should run off a relay, as long as within the power ratings. I used this kit to control 2 aux fans that push thru the A/C condenser on work my truck.

These relays are great , used them to wire electric water pump and cooling fan. All the wires are plenty long and clearly marked . Plan on buying another one for my electric fuel pump. Relays are a must when wiring your race car . Without them you will melt your toggle switches which are not designed for a large amperage draw.

This kit has nice 10 gauge primary wires with good length and nice 16 gauge trigger wires. All are copper and not CCA or tinned. The 10 gauge batter wire has a convenient inline fuse holder to protect your in tank or inline electric fuel pump with the correct sized fuse for you pump application.It also has a high quality 40 amp relay and matching relay wire connecter.I used this in combination with a 1/8" oil pressure sensor to wire my frame rail mounted, inline summit Fuel Pump.Originally someone had wired my Fuel Pump to turn on even when the key/ignition was just in the accessory position! So it was loud and running plus heating up for zero reason even when the car was not on! Not only is this stupid, but it is also dangerous.I recommend using an oil pressure sensor to trigger one of the relay pins, and have it on the cranking circuit, not the accessory. I will run you through the proper wiring. This is much safer because in the event of an accident, the Fuel Pump will shutoff with the engine, potentially avoiding fire!You will need a 1/8" or 1/4" oil pressure sensor depending on your application and what engine port in available to you to install one. My edelbrock EPS aluminum intake, and most small block chevy's, have a 1/8" pressure port at the rear of the intake near the distributor/points close to the firewall. Mine was a special case in that I had an interior glowshift oil pressure gauge (along with water temp, voltage and a 5 reading air ride air pressure gauges installed underneath my vintage air A/C in a custom made 4 pod bracket.)So I needed to run both the oil pressure sensor for the fuel pump but also the electronic sender for the glowshift oil pressure gauge. This is easily achieved using a one 1/8" npt port into (2) 1/8" NPT port fitting, which is available on Amazon in stainless or brass for around $10.You could also look for a different location for your sensor on your engine block or even via your oil pan, if it has a port, and lastly through a special sandwich plate for your oil filter. The sandwich plate installs between your oil filter and engine, and makes up to (4) 1/4" or 1/8" ports available, plus comes with plugs for any unused ones.The oil pressure sensor you want has three blade connectors on top of it, labeled P S and I. One wire goes to the starter positive, one to the fuel pump relay and one to any 12v wire than has power when the ignition is turned to crank.This setup will ensure your fuel pump will only pump fuel when your engine is running and will turn off if the engine loses oil pressure. It will also temporarily give power to the fuel pump while you are turning the key and the engine is cranking to start, but not all the time as mine was incorrectly wired.This relay and oil pressure sensor setup also gives you the opportunity to install a hidden switch to turn off the fuel pump in the event of parking in a high risk/theft area or when parking for an extended time frame.This means that when said switch is in the off position, the car will crank but it will be given fuel insuring your car is not stolen and plausibly fooling the their into the belief that the car has a problem and will not start/run, hopefully stopping them from further investigation.As for the switch location and switch type, this is where i get very creative. You can have multiple switches in different/odd locations (hidden under the hood, behind a bumper, in the trunk, in the deep back of the ash tray, under the seat, locked glove box etc. You can also have these switches in odd combinations of on/off that only you know the combination of, making theft nearly impossible. (This combination/multiple switch system can close be used for linear actuator operated hidden compartments for carrying sensitive items..Nothing illegal obviously.)Lastly you can try different switch types. From normal toggle switches, to remote control switches, flip switches, momentary push switches, magnetic or RFID keycard/fob switches, and secret Reed switches that can be placed very discreetly recessed into places and only need a small magnet on the other end to close the circuit and turn on the fuel pump or open a box or access a hidden area.Hope this helps someone have fun with their vehicle!

I used this to run a dual speed fan (took two of them) from my sniper efi setup. Wired the trigger off of the sniper to the ground side then normal wiring. Heavy duty wiring, no worry about to much load on the wires. Nice to get the whole setup in one pack.

Used this to wire an electric fuel pump under hood on a 7.3 idi. Worked good plenty of wire