I recently acquired an Ender 3D printer, and I must say, it's not just a machine; it's a gateway to endless creativity and innovation. What sets the Ender 3D printer apart is its remarkable blend of affordability, reliability, and versatility.First and foremost, the setup was a breeze. Even for someone like me, who's not a tech whiz, the instructions were clear, and within a short time, I had my Ender 3D printer up and running. The process felt like unlocking a world of possibilities.One thing that pleasantly surprised me was the level of precision this printer offers. The attention to detail is astounding, and it consistently produces high-quality prints, whether I'm crafting intricate prototypes or creating personalized gifts. It's like having a tiny factory right on my desk.The Ender community is another aspect that makes this printer truly unique. The support and wealth of knowledge shared by fellow Ender enthusiasts online have been invaluable. It's not just a printer; it's a community of passionate makers eager to help you explore your creative potential.What's more, the Ender 3D printer is highly customizable. I've had a blast experimenting with different materials, from PLA to flexible filaments, and I've even added various upgrades to enhance its performance further. It's a printer that grows with you, allowing you to fine-tune it to your exact needs.Lastly, the Ender 3D printer has ignited my passion for design and innovation. It's like having a magic wand that transforms my ideas into tangible objects. Whether I'm prototyping inventions or crafting intricate artwork, this printer has become an extension of my imagination.In conclusion, the Ender 3D printer is more than just a piece of hardware; it's a catalyst for creativity and a gateway to a vibrant community of makers. It's reliable, precise, and endlessly customizable, making it the perfect tool for both beginners and seasoned 3D printing enthusiasts. If you're looking for a 3D printer that not only meets your needs but also ignites your passion for making, the Ender 3D printer is the one to choose.

Impresora premontada. Fácil de ensamblar y muy robusta. Muchas mejoras desde inicio.Fue montarla nivelar la cama e imprimir. Muy fácil y muy bien acabado. A mejorar poner en la pantalla modo de apagar la impresora. Faltan funciones en la pantalla. Es muy básico. Y también añadiría el cambio de filamentos. Que recordar debe hacerse con la temperatura a 210 en el caso de pla. En conclusión muy buena impresora. Me ha sorprendido.

Für den S1 (ohne pro). Mag sein das er 2023 nicht der schnellste ist (was oft nur auf dem Papier schnell wirkt)... aber für den Preis ein rundes Paket. Ersatzteile und Zubehör gibt es genügend.Lieferung: Top verpacktAufbauanleitung: Ist ok, kann nicht Schaden sich Vidos anzusehen (auf SD karte und YT)Aufbau: Kein Problem (für mich als Handwerker)Betrieb:- Ausreichend Platz, kein Wind, stabile Temperature, stabile Unterlage (wackelfrei)- Manuelles Kalibrieren des Druckbettes, auf jeden Kall machen! Hier kommt es auf 1/10mm an. Siehe Videos (mitgeliefert und auf YT)- Z-Offset: Fühlerlehre mit 0.1mm. Papier ist Mumpe bzw. Glückssache- Display mit dem Druck-Drehregler ist sehr gut zu bedienen.- Federstahlplatte auf dem Druckbett: Klasse! Sehr feine Drucke lassen sich über das biegen der Platte lösen. Meistens geht es nach dem abkühlen mit leichter Handkraft sauber ab.Tipp:1. Slicer Cura aktuell aus dem Web, nicht den von der SD Karte! Dort gibt es auch das passende Druckprofil.2. Druckprofil anpassen: Erste zwei Schichten mit 210°C und ohne Lüfter, danach 202°C mit 80% Lüfter.3. Klebt es nicht oder erste Schicht nicht sauber: Bett leveln, Offset einstellen4. Klebt es zu doll oder die Düse rubbelt über die ersten Schichten: Z-Offset zu tief.5. Software für den Anfang: Sketchup mit Plugin "STL In-/und Export" und "Solid Inspector"6. Software für Fortgeschrittene Freecad, dafür benötigt man definitiv die Lernvideos auf YT7. Beim konstruieren die Düsenbreite (0.4mm() und Schichthöhe mit einfließen lassen. Also eine Wand mit 0.6mm ist blöde wenn die Düse d=0.4mm hat.7. Youtube: mpoxDEAnmerkung:A) Kalibrierung Einzug: Musste ich nicht machen. Die Wand sollte 0.4mm haben und meine Schieblehre bestätigte das.B) Das Teil ist nicht leise! Der Netzteillüfter rennt immer mit 100%. Wußte ich vorher deshalb keinen Minus-Punkt. Außerdem steht der Drucker ja nicht im Schlaf- oder Wohnzimmer.Benötigtes Zubehör:- Glasreiniger- Mikrofasertuch- Fühlerlehre/Messfolie 0.1mm- Filament mitbestellen. Ich habe hier PLA und PLA+ von Jayo.- Schieblehre: Wenn man selber was entwickeln will. Ein Zollstock/Lineal für die groben Sachen.Stromverbrauch: Beim Aufheizen ca. 340W (2-3 Minuten) danach um die 100W beim Druck.Ich hätte mir das ganze deutlich komplizierter vorgestell! Das Thema "Konstruktion" ist allerdings ein Thema für sich.

Bonne imprimante pour débuter. Beaucoup de mods disponibles. Impression très rapide avec un sonic pad

3 Month Update... as far as the 3D printing hobby goes this was the second 3D printer I purchased (previous was a Flash Forge Adventurer 3), I preordered the Bambu Labs X1C and soon after the P1P... well after getting out of hospital and actually sitting in the room with all the printers I saw some space and squeezed in a Prusa.Now if I ask myself which machine has taught me the most... easily the Creality... made it Simple and fun to learn on - Sonic Pad hands down.This retirement hobby has quickly become an obsession there is so much to learn and to buy... there are a lot of companies in the 3D printer game and being new I didn't know who to choose... I'm glad I went with Creality... their customer service has been fantastic !! I've never experienced anything like it... well I just set up a new resin printer (non Creality) maybe I'll be buying another Creality to compare!But with the Sonic Pad hooked up I have direct feedback on everything that is going on while it is printing.... and I have direct control of temperature, flow rate, speed ect to see the results immediately... just simply awesome! I am still a newbie in this game but for retirement... doing more working and hours learning than I ever did while being paid LOLA big thanks out to Rachel from customer service... keep up the great work!Was very close to boxing this back up for a return but I have grand parent patience now... and I can become a satisfied customer.Short version of story. Assembly was incredibly easy followed directions from the manual as you don't know who to trust online. My other printer is a Flashforge Adventurer 3 so bed leveling I thought may be trickier on this... Followed the directions set out in the manual and as the Z - offset is done at the beginning after the initial automatic level then outside is leveled... well tried to do first test print and.... grinding... there goes the PET plate (attached photo)... Problem I later confirmed is in the instructions... I later had adhesion problems and leveled it by; heating it up, manually leveling bed, running Auto Bed and then confirm Z-off set. Nothing adhered to the bed... until I did the above, oh and I had to replace damaged nozel. During this I had to take bed apart to confirm tightness of all wheels & belts.Finally bed adhesion... then prints randomly would stop mid print... back to reading... then flash card went corrupt... every card I could find in my house wasn't being recognized by the printer. Then I found an old card that worked but printer wouldn't load any of the files... that card went corrupt and crashed my new laptop... After reading I found out it requires a FAT32 formatted card 15GB or Less and that it reads from the card... Doesn't copy files over to internal storage as I had thought... ahhh that's why prints are stopping, and cards have been corrupted. Out to the store... no one sells cards that small... back on Amazon to order & wait.I'm now reasonably up and running... the Z-axis steper motors will probably need adjusting as measurment are a little off... also the carrier for the print head, a lot of wear and 'white' dust that does not look normal... seemed to be smooth but looks to be wearing prematurely and I will probably just replace it.I was not planning on getting a 3D printer for the printer to be the hobby... for me printing & designing is the hobby... I had decided to return this however after dealing with the challenges I have it printing... dialing it in will come over time... I will pick up a high end printer in near future... depending on health & mobility... At the moment I'm considering to keep this as a secondary machine for over flow and having a laser engraver on it could justify keeping it.I thought I could leave the machine with my wife and she could print things off... however think this is above her ability... she's sticking with Flashforge.Checked and return window is week after I get back so guess it is in your hands lolVery least I would expect is a new PEI sheet, Original Branded item not a knock-off & hardened steel nozzle... surprised they had brass!Contacted seller and their advice… if I want good customer service I should buy directly from their site next time!Not sure if I’m going to return it as now that I have it working it prints well… may buy something a lot better and keep this for backup… but I’m in hospital until mid January… interesting if someone reaches out. Don’t like leaving poor reviews… actually first time I’ve had to.If your buying this printer there are plenary of other sellers beside Comgrow … but if you buy from them make sure you purchase through their website to get the “good” customer service.

This is my first 3D printer and let met tell you, I am absolutely blown away. I got great results on my first test print. Since then I've printed several things and needed to make minor adjustments but this product allows for easy adjustment and fine-tuning.The packaging is great (tools and extra parts provided), but on to the elephant in the room: assembly and initial calibration/parameter setting. It took me approximately 4 to 4.5 hours from opening the box to my first successful print. Here is what I can tell you about that process: 1) TAKE YOUR TIME - The more careful and meticulous you are in this process, the better things go later. I think the reason I had such great success on my first attempt using the printer was due to me taking so long during the set up. I had some moments of frustration, but it really isn't that bad. This is a ~$200 3d printer with the quality and build size of printers that cost 2-3x+. The long initial setup and calibration is well worth it. 2) Use multiple sources during set-up - I used the 1 page instructions included, the instruction booklet which can be downloaded here (https://www.creality3d.cn/download/product-file_c0002), and, MOST IMPORTANTLY, this awesome guy's youtube video for the assembly (https://youtu.be/me8Qrwh907Q) and bed leveling (https://youtu.be/5eqTmb01cBk). A little over halfway through the assembly process I gave up on the manual and just carefully watched and re-watched the youtube video steps, cross-referencing with the manual once major steps were completed. LISTEN to this guy when he tells you to take your time! Examples include: ensuring the two main z-direction aluminum posts are equidistant at the top and bottom (bolt tightening trick), tuning the eccentric nuts on the 3-wheel rail sliding assemblies, bed leveling, and more. These small tuning steps during the assembly fix most all problems people have. 3) RELAX and realize this isn't an out-of-the-box ready to go 3d printer. It, like all 3d printers, need some tuning and a bit of experimentation/experience to achieve the printer's full potential. For example, the included test print was a smashing success, but my next, custom print didn't turn out as well. It didn't adhere to the bed after several layers and also was a tiny bit stringy in sections. I fixed the adhesion by telling it to print the object with a brim (layer under the object) and also turning on "Z hop when retracted" in case the nozzle was bumping something while it was moving between print areas (this option is in Cura, the slicing software - more about that below). I fixed the stringiness by turning down the nozzle temp about 8-10 degrees. 4) If you're having an issue, it's likely that 10 other people have asked about it online. Do some google-fu. This may be the most important part of successful 3d printing. There are SO many great sources and communities out there to help fix issues and speed up your progress. What software does this thing use!? Ok, well I didn't know jack crap about any of this a week ago, but here is what I've learned since. This printer uses g-code files when printing. G-code is a file that tells it where to go (x,y,z), what layer height to use, what printing speed to use, etc. G-code is generated by slicing software from a 3d model (usually a STL file). You can download Ultimaker Cura for FREE here (https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software). In Cura, you can change all the parameters for your 3d printer easily (layer height, wall thickness, infill density, nozzle temperature, build plate temperature, support and adhesion structures, etc). Cura now has the Ender 3 as a printer option. The easiest way to get to 3d printing some cool stuff is to go over to a free 3d model website such as thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/). Download the files for whatever you want to print. Open Cura. Drag and drop the stl file(s) of the object(s) you want to print into Cura. Adjust the aforementioned settings (layer height, speed, etc). Click the "slice" button at the bottom right. At this point I like to hit the "preview" button and drag the slider on the right up and down to look at how the printer will print the object. Once you're satisfied, select "save to file", save it on the micro-sd card, put the card in the printer, and you're ready to go.If you want to customize objects (outside of simple scaling and such) or make your own from scratch, god speed to you. It's a helluva learning curve, but that's what I'm working on now. I've heard Blender is a pretty good, free 3d modeling software (https://www.blender.org/). Most any 3d modeling software allows exporting to a .stl fileOverall, I have to say that my expectations for this product were greatly exceeded. If you have a bit of patience and a willingness or ability to use google-fu to figure some things out, this 3d printer is amazing in both build quality and ease of use (once it's set up). If you don't, well I guess you'll need to shell out 5x+ the price

As of the time of this review this is definitely the best printer you can get at this price and the build quality is very impressive. No cheap plastic junk parts anywhere to be seen.That being said, this is definitely hobby realm. Don't plan on just plugging this in like an HP laserjet and clicking print (same can be said of most kit type 3d printers). It will take some learning and tweaking if you are new to this.The printer is a kit that is roughly half built. Everything went together ok, just pay attention closely to the instruction sheets and watch a youtube video if necessary. They included lots of spare parts and screws and such, lots of tools too.Beginner tips- Make sure to level the bed well. Level it when it is heated. You will know right away if it is not level when printing as the plastic will not stick. A sheet of paper between the nozzle and the bed will scratch the nozzle and you can feel fan vibrations in the paper when sliding it when it is level (at least from my experience). Its too tight if it starts to tear and its too loose if it slides around loosely.- We had better luck starting with the plastic sheet instead of glass- All the roller wheels have eccentric nuts, you can use those to tight and loosen the wheels. Use that to fix a wobbly bed. Don't over tighten, things should not wobbly but you should still be able to move the bed and print head by lightly rolling a wheel with your finger.- For slicing software install Cura with CR-10 profile and change the bed size to 220x220x250. Just load your STL file that you downloaded from thingiverse or wherever into this software, then save it to the SD card and you are ready to go.- For printing items that need supports I have gotten good results using meshmixer to add the supports in, then save it to a new STL file, then load that into Cura. Google meshmixer supports for the process.- Within Cura use a skirt, this will help start the plastic flowing and you will be able to tell if it is leveled properly before it starts printing the actual model.- Experiment using a raft in Cura as well, this is better for some prints.- If its too noisy for you look at getting dampers for it, they are available on Amazon at a good price. The damper on the bed motor will require moving the bed detector switch forward, it works ok on mine using just one screw. You will understand when you do it.- Another great upgrade are tighter springs for the bed so the leveling wheels don't go out of adjustment easy.I had an issue with a warped bed, and the company promptly replaced it. Very good customer service.Pros- Low price- Build quality, seriously looks like it would cost $800. There is no way you could build this on your own at anywhere near this price by sourcing the extruded aluminum parts and motors on your own.- Print quality is very nice- Simple to use interface - my 10 year old kid uses this on his own all the time- Great customer serviceCons- Very noisy out of the box- Some badly translated instructions- Some things aren't in the instructions that really should be (for instance the bed was very wobbly, its an easy fix by just tightening some eccentric nuts underneath, but it took some 'internetting' to figure this out.)