Fumoto F-111N Engine Oil Drain Valve

This is the 2nd drain i've installed in 2 different Powerstrokes. Makes oil changes a breeze and never have to worry if I have copper washers for the train plug. Does drain slower than removing the plug, but its a small tradeoff for the ease of use. The plastic safety clip is kind of a pain, so I usually don't install them and just use a zip tie in its place. Allows for a partial oil drain if needed w/out the mess of having to put the factory plug in while oil is running out. Also, never have to worry about over tightening the plug and stripping the oil pan out.

I have had this installed for a year and just got to the point of needing an oil change. The dealer installed it for me on the last change, I had a coupon for a free oil change. I LOVE THIS valve! I changed my 15 quarts of oil in my diesel Ford F350 with only spilling a total of less than a teaspoon of oil on the ground! I cut a 3" piece of hose for the nipple so that the hose would just hang inside of the old jugs I use. Flipped the valve and watched the oil steadily fill the container. It fills kinda slow which I prefer over too fast. When the first container was full I flipped the valve closed and swapped in a new container. I think 2 drops of oil hit the driveway. Took 35 minutes of casual work to drain 14 quarts of oil, swap filters, and refill. I could only imagine the nightmare of using my drain pan, having to stop draining every 5 quarts to empty the drain pan into a jug using a funnel, and starting the drain again. Doing that 3 times would have been enough to drive a man to tears. If you own a diesel truck that takes a lot of oil do yourself a favor and get one of these Fumoto valves.

Works as advertised. A little snug going in - not like the drain plug it replaced.Update 03/06/17 - changed the oil for the first time since installing this drain valve. Job was much easier and cleaner but warning - the oil drains s-l-o-w-l-y now. Have a plan to do another chore while waiting for the oil to drain completely because it takes much, much longer now.

I ordered this for my 2000 7.3 and it works great. The quality is great and it feels very solid. I use a clear hose and a 5 gallon paint thinner barrel with a small 2 inch hole in the top to drain the oil now. Before this valve the oil would go all over the place on a windy day since the truck is lifted. I was a little worried about the valve opening like other people so I went and picked up a 25 cent spring clamp and problem solved.

I had one of these on my Miata, and was extremely happy to find one that fits my Ford E-450 6.0 diesel, especially since it holds 15 quarts of oil. This drain valve replaces the OEM plug, which always seems to make a mess, when removed to drain the oil. The lever locks in place, and will not open accidentally, and also allows you to close it when your oil catch pan gets full, if you should happen to have a large oil capacity engine like I do. Another way to avoid cleaning up a wind blown oil stream is to fit a rubber or plastic hose (clear is ideal, so you can see when the oil is finished draining) either in the drain hole, or over the nipple, if you spend a few more bucks to get the one with the nipple. If you vehicle is elevated, you can then direct the oil into gallon containers, such as empty bleach bottles, and skip cleaning an oil pan. (Not to mention fishing around for the plug in a pan full of dirty oil.) This is a great product, and I'm told that almost all auto manufacturers endorse it. Two things you need to be aware of before ordering it. One: It does extend from the oil pan a bit further than the OEM plug does, especially if you get one with the nipple. So make sure you have the ground clearance. (Which I did, even with my low sitting Miata.) Two: Some oil pans have a recessed plug. If yours does, you will have to buy an extension/adaptor. Don't worry, Amazon sells them, too. The first time you change your oil using this valve, you won't regret the purchase. It's an idea who's time should have come long ago, and well worth it!

I put mine on a 2000 ford f350. The pan dips low but still has about 3-4" protected clearance. I am an avid off road driver and rock crawler with my other trucks, and I am always concerned about clearance and protection. If you were to put a drain plug on that is to tall, or some times just at the wrong location it could be hit, broken and leak oil which means a blown motor.My major concerns with replacing a solid plug with a drain like this were how far down it hung, quality of construction, and to be 100% certain that it under no circumstances will open and leak oil. On my ford it meets all of those.Clearance - Each truck will be unique, this oil pan is very large and hangs low, but there is a cross member and axle right infront of it, and protect about 3-4" of space below the pan, which is perfect for this plug. The plug sits only about 1.25" down but this particular plug comes with the smooth nipple for a hose which can be removed but hangs another 1" lower. Also if you are super concerned with it opening you could pull the smooth nipple and put your old drain plug in there for twice the protection.Quality - I have seen a few of these made of plastic, or pot metal, and i feel like a small tap would crack or deform the valve. This one weighs several OZ and feels like solid metal. It is made of steel and brass, i can really hammer on it and it is solid. The threads that go in to the pan are very deep. In the photo you can see about 3-4 threads, but in reality is is more like 7-8 threads so it will engage your oil pan and have a really solid connection. It also includes a new gasket to further seal the plug against the pan. I feel like if i were to hit this plug very hard i would dent the pan before it broke off.Draining - Now how horrible would it be to leave the tap open or even have it vibrate open while driving and dump your oil on the road. First the construction is so good it is hard to open the first time, it is a very accurate and tight fit of the ball valve. Then the lever is made of steel, and as you can see it had a little ledge that is falls in to to "lock it in to position" there is also a strong spring that holds the lever locked. You have to lift the lever with about 3-4 lb of force then turn the ball valve, it does not open immediately you must turn it about 3/4 of the way open before any oil comes out. It also took about 10-11 lb of force to get open because of the tight tolerances on the ball valve. I am 100% certain that it will not open until i manually move the lever all the way to the open position.This valve makes draining the 4 gallons of oil from a diesel very easy to remove, even in a toyota or honda with 4 quarts you may attach a little hose and not get a bunch of oil splashing, and if you are like me and some times your pan fills before the oil drains, you may close the valve empty the pan and come back and continue. It was way worth the money and it is not an issue of cost but weather it would be reliable, and it is reliable.