Still have not received the missing parts after 4 weeks of waiting now .

Only problem, rain collects in the top when it rains hard. Although I found a way to easily remove it. I hope than it can be removed during the winter.

It was easy to assemble; I did it by myself in 2 hours. The only downside is that the ground screw gaps are really small; however, it does not move around after installation. The top cloth covers are waterproof, so you can enjoy a rainy day underneath. It’s worth every dollar!!

The pergola assembly was not a quick and easy process. You will absolutely need 2 people for a lot of the steps if you want to avoid scratching the metal and/or bending it. Once set up, it is very nice looking, but you will quickly realize the lack of stability provided by the very thin metal construction. I lagged my legs into a concrete pad and still had to add substantial corner bracing on every post, as well as sheer bracing across the top. I am still not confident that the pergola will hold up to anyone leaning against/bumping into one of the posts or a substantial wind storm.... time will tell.

Good product

The deck is HOT! from sin up to about 3-4 pm and there is no shade back there at all, but it is also a more private area. The deck is also almost 12' wide and 10' long (this includes a 3.5" top rail that I was not going to cut. Luckily, the top of this pergola is 10x10 but the legs are not. I have about 5-6 " to spare when I did not use caps on one side nearest the house on the top frame. Probably could have used them and still been fine, I just wanted it against the house.As others have stated, the instructions are not great. You will figure it out eventually. I built the top frame to the top (hollow) posts and then when the top was done, then lifted it up onto the bottom posts with connector because I built it on the deck and I am not very tall and did not want to be reaching overhead that much.The screw you use to connect the top framing members to the top of the posts: do not take the nuts off. Screw them in with the nuts on there, it is meant to be that way. Its weird, but don't waste time doing it any other way.The mid-post connectors have 8 screws with 8 nuts where the nuts live in channels inside the connector. You have to remove those screws in order to connect the post to the connector. However, the nuts have a tendency to FALL OUT. I am speaking specifically of the 4 nuts on the bottom of the connector. You might want to tape them down. I lost one when I hit the connector on something else by accident and it went though the deck boards to the ground.The canopy: Item G that screws into the framing member "C", does not have ends that unscrew and you do not need to take that cap out. Item H does have ends that unscrew so that you can put them in the hooks, then re-screw. Just make sure that when you start to put the canopy up on rod/item G that the other rod- slip areas for the H's are pointing up and not down. I installed the canopy backwards when installing G and had to take it down, reverse it and re-attach.Yes, there were a few bent pieces. The worst ones for me were 1 bottom post and many of the H rods. They were easy enough to bend back with pliers. I had the impression this was supposed to be 128# and that concerned me because I just rebuilt my failing deck, but it was rather lightweight and easy to move around as needed. As stated, I assembled the top and with one other person, lifted it 4ft up to install the bottom posts with connectors.It's better looking in person than in the picture, all larger parts are in halves that need to be assembled into wholes and it provides great shade. Summer, here I come!Update! I ordered a second one for a family member, it arrived very quickly, but the other person is not yet ready for it and I don't want to spend that much time outside during the heat for assembly, so I assembled what I could at my house. The fabric itself that makes up the canopy is very water resistant and it has withstood several rains since I first bought mine. I still love it. Here is what I did for preassembly of the second one while it is still fresh on my mind.Took out all pieces and separated them by type.Upper framing members:Assembled 2xF, 2xS, 1xD, 1xE, and 1xC - part 2 goes into part one of the same type (F1 and F2, S1 and S2, D1 and D2 - these make up the upper frame such that when assembled you will have F, S, D, S, F) sitting perpendicular on E (front) and C (back). Make sure that on the F, C, and E members, that the 4 larger hole pattern are all on the same side of both sides of the facing and at the ends and not in the middle. F, D, C and E gets K screws in the middle at the connection point. S gets 4 R screws in the middle connection point. This assembles the pergola-top framing members.I then had someone else install the end caps item V, to only one end of each framing member making sure that the K and R screws were on top of each member AND again, verify that the 4 hole pattern is on the same side of the facing and at the ends and not the center of the members. On F, the "board" will attach from the inside to the post, so I rotated one opposite the other to fit the cap. Then, on the open side of F, I inserted 5 track roller Ms to each 5 along the bottom. On D, I put in roller/stopper I, then 5 track roller L and then the N. (N will go on the side of framing member C). Once the rollers were inserted, the other endcap was attached.Posts.You have 2 posts, regardless of the top numbered item, all bottom parts of the post are A1. I attached the base (Y) to the end of all A1s on the end that has a single hole (not the one that has 4 holes) using screw R. Then, at the 4-wholed side of the post (the center), I removed the screws from the bottom of post connector (T) gently so as to not lose the nut on the interior tract. Then I gently fitted the connector into the post and replaced all 4 screws. Then repeated to the three other A1s. When putting in the base, put the flange screw whole right next to the post whole so that there is even spacing of the base around the bottom of the post.I then inserted post-cap (W) into the top (where there are multiple holes on 2 sides of the post, not were there is a single whole on all 4 sides) of both A2 and B2. You will not need interior access to the post. Theoretically, depending on your build, you can remove the screws from the top of the connector and connect the posts together at this point, but I have to transport to a secondary location, so I did not.What I did next was to pull out and lay out the canopy where the rod-pockets were facing up. I located the pull tab and then went to the opposite side and threaded both members of G into that one side. All other rod pockets will get a male and female side of rod H. G will screw to framing member C above using screw X. I did not connect them in the center because they will have to be connected through the rings coming off of roller items L along center structure D. I then folded the canopy over and rolled it up. Preparation is done.What I will have left to doAttach C and E to the lower positions of A2 and B2 where the attachments are toward the interior and not the exterior. All upper attachments to the post use the nutted bolt combo of P that should remain as a nut on a bolt and then screw it in. Attach F to the higher/inner positions also using P. When you have done this you should have a square of F, C, F, E. C is the canopy point of attachment, E is where it will close to and F has M roller/rings to guide the canopy. Then place your 2xS just interior and the 1xD** down the middle attaching these with screw O. **the stopper/roller on D (item I) does need to be by framing member E and the black loop (item N) does need to be on the side of framing member C. This completes assembly of the top frame.Next: add canopy. With the canopy under the frame and rod pockets facing up, attach rod G to framing member C using screw X on one side, then thread rod through black loop I (eye), then screw in the other side of G to C. If you feel fancy, there is a small loop on the end of the canopy, you can remove the caps to G (and then later H) and secure those loops into the cap to assist in preventing sag or interior droop. Remove the end screws of rods H, connect in the middle and then replace the end screws of H through the eyes of roler M and repeat until canopy is connected.For me, all that would be left at this point would be to put it where I want it and then remove the connector screws from the center of the posts and place the top assembled frame on the bottom of the posts and re-screw. And done. Check your canopy assembly and make sure that it can move freely and in the intended direction before placement and you won't have to work reaching overhead all that much this way. Remember that item I does have a screw-stopper to lock the canopy however open you want it or not.

Looks great on my deck! A bit challenging to assemble but not horrible. Very sturdy. Great price.

We've had so many compliments on this pergola! We put it on our lake raft and it looks so nice! It was easy to assemble but it did take 2 of us. Even so it was maybe an hour to get the job done. The canopy is so easy to install and the best part is it can be removed easily on extra windy days or to take it off during the winter. It's super study but also doesn't weigh down the raft too much. We've had a few nasty wind storms and it hasn't budged, I just removed the canopy and it stood fine. So worth the investment!