This shear attachment worked out better than I thought it would. I used it on 29 gauge ribbed metal roofing panels for cross cuts. While it did take a bit of finesse to get it over and through the high ribs, the cuts were clean with minimal deformation of the panel. I did find that going very slowly helped with controlling the direction of the cut. It tended to wander quite a bit when I ran the drill at higher speeds. That said, this attachment will work best with a drill that has a lot of torque at slow speeds.The included instructions were so incomplete and tiny that they were useless. But it was easy to figure out how things went together by looking at the pictures in the listing. You will want to practice on some scrap pieces of metal before using it on a project as it does have a bit of a learning curve to get good results. Overall, it got the job done and was much easier than doing it by hand, and it produced a cleaner edge with less mess than using a nibbler tool.

I wanted to use it on .03" aluminum, which is real close to the maximum rated thickness. I got it to cut, but not in a straight line. It kept wanting to curve to the right on me when I did get it started cutting. A little practice may have helped. Also, it might work better on thinner material like aluminum flashing.For me, I'll keep using shears or maybe a table saw if I have a longer cut.

great tool easy to use.

Will be attempting to use this on cutting a custom metal sheet for a magnetic wall feature. Will update its performance asap.

First, the instructions are pretty lame, but it’s fairly easy to figure out. It doesn’t line up very well with the handles of my two drills, but doesn’t prevent it from working. It does make less of a mess than if you use a cutoff wheel or an air nibbler. The cutting unit itself seems fairly well built and should hold up well. It’s an okay tool.

In a word, these drill shears are garbage. I don't know where to start, but I guess the beginning would be a good place. I received the drill shears and started reading the directions. The translated English was tolerable, but not very helpful. There are pictures that are supposed to help you assemble the shear, but they were so small and grainy as to be useless. I went back to the webpage on Amazon and the pictures there were substantially better, but the two mounting options were not that great. One option has you using the side handle with a long rod that threads into the tool and runs down, at an angle, to the grip of the drill. At that point it is "secured" to the grip with a spring. The second method also uses the side handle, but uses a sheet metal clamp to secure a shorter rod to the side handle itself. Both methods serve the purpose of stabilizing the tool and keeping it from turning with the drill chuck. The biggest issue is that the side handle must be tightened around a boss behind the chuck of the drill. My 18v Ryobi does not have this boss, as many others don't either. I had to set the shear up in my B&D 1/2" hammer drill, which does have a normal, drill only function, but the longer rod wasn't near long enough to reach the grip of the drill, so I opted for the side handle mount. Securing it was a bit fiddly, but accomplished easily enough, after I found much clearer photos on the Amazon website. With the shear mounted, it was time to try some test cuts on cookie tin thickness sheet metal(.094/2.38mm), not very thick at all and fairly flimsy. The tool cut about 1/4" to 3/8" into the metal when it stopped with a horrible grinding sound. I backed the shear out of the cut and examined the tool. The cutting wheels had a good deal of axial play and there is s small screw with a locknut that I assume is there to adjust the play in the driven wheel, which is supposed to be driven by the driving wheel, and would theoretically counter the axial play in the driving wheel also. This adjusting screw is not addressed in the very minimalist instruction booklet that comes with the shear, so I tried to adjust the play in the driven wheel. No amount of tweaking the adjustment screw could get the wheels to work as intended. Too tight, and the driven wheel wouldn't turn at all. Too loose, and neither wheel would bite into the metal to make a cut, there wasn't any "sweet spot". All the while, the grinding noise kept getting louder and louder. I decided to disassemble the shear to investigate the grinding noise. Once I got it apart it was similar to an automotive rear drive axle assembly. There is a helical pinion and a ring gear on the underside of the driving gear. The pinion had ground away and rounded it's teeth where they intersect with the ring gear, and the ring gear had damage where the pinion had been chewing away at it. I have attached photos of both to this review. The pinion gear appeared to be hardened, and a mill file only polished the surface. However, the ring gear was easily cut by a standard mill file. I found that rather unusual as the pinion took the brunt of the damage. When I say driving and driven gears it's only a description of their intended purpose, as there are no teeth between the two, only flat friction surfaces, relying on friction to turn them in unison to cut the metal. The basic design seems to be seriously flawed, and the materials used seem to be substandard. I wouldn't waste my money on this shear, and I only gave it 1 star, because I couldn't give it 0 stars.

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