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Wiring Diagram Of Volt Amp Meter
0.28" Digital Voltmeter Ammeter
- The Thick Wire Is Connected In Series Between The Negative Poles, The Thick Black Wire Is Connected To The Negative Pole Of The Power Supply To Be Tested, The Thick Red Wire Is Connected To The Negative Pole Of The Load, And Cannot Be Reversed, And The Yellow Wire Is Connected To The Positive Pole Of The Measured Power Supply.
Digital Voltmeter Display
- The Thin Red Wire Is Connected To The Power Supply. The Power Supply Cannot Exceed 30v.
What you get:
- 1x Digital Volt Ampere Meter
- 2Pcs x Cable
Volt Meter Display
- The voltage between the thin red and thin black
- lines must be within DC 4.5-30V
- The ammeter can only be connected to the negative of the device under test
Precautions for Dc Amp Meter
- When the black thin line vacant, it is better to use insulating tape around the exposed part of the wire, to prevent short circuits
- If just be used as a voltmeter, it is recommended that the yellow line and the black line were connected together, to prevent the ammeter digital flashing
Integrated Shunt could use it directly
- DC 100V 10A Amp Voltage current volt amp meter tester integrated shunt.
- You don't need to purchase extra shunt
Wiring of Dc Panel Volt Current Meter
- Black line (thin): vacant or buck circuit (module) negative
- Red line (thin): power supply+
- Black line (thick): COM, common measuring
- Red line (thick): PW+, measuring terminal voltage input positive
- Yellow line (thick): IN+, current input+
Mark
Reviewed in the United States on September 16, 2024
real real nice
spldart
Reviewed in the United States on September 5, 2023
I bought two. I was able to calibrate voltage nicely with my DMM. Current is not adjustable but both werewithin 100 milliamps from each other with one being nearly spot on with my DMM.I used these on a solar power converter I built and it's very nice to be able to see details of operation at a glance.For the price these are awesome 8~D
Mike Taylor
Reviewed in the United Kingdom on August 14, 2023
Wired this up eventually after much googling given the diagrams are not helpful.Burnt out immediately including crackling and smoke.What's the point of advertising it as a car current monitor when it's feeble 10A max is nowhere near that of a car battery.
Manuel D.
Reviewed in the United States on December 18, 2023
Perfect for what i need , very accurate
B&B's BCs
Reviewed in Canada on November 8, 2023
I have given it 5 stars because it works in my power supply and displays as close to the analog meters values as I hoped it would be. Only minor adjustments were required for amps although the readings are perfectly linear but much easer to read. It did the job and the price was right.
Customer
Reviewed in the United Kingdom on November 21, 2023
use it to monitor 12volt batt status and current.checked against meter it seems fairly accurate
Kenny
Reviewed in Canada on November 14, 2023
The media could not be loaded.
Catman
Reviewed in the United States on February 13, 2022
WARNING. BAD DESIGN OR BAD SPECS. DO NOT BUY THIS UNIT FROM ANY VENDOR, THEY ARE ALL IDENTICAL. Amazon should pull this product before it burns down someone's home. First unit I ordered smoked as soon as I hooked it up to a precision DC power supply, verified to have no AC ripple. I did not leave it connected long enough for it to start on fire, I turned off power immediately. It CLAIMS you can input up to 24 volts via the SMALL red and yellow wires (tied commonly to power and load positive) with the small black lead not used, but coiled and taped to prevent electrical contact anywhere. Thick red wire to Load negative, thick black wire to Power negative. But the INSTANT you go over 18 volts DC, boom. Dead, complete with smoke. I discovered the threshold with the SECOND unit. I started at 10 volts, it was fine. Worked OK at 12 volts as well, showing an accurate voltage reading. I did not test amperage by connecting a load, but that is not required; it should show the voltage with zero amps, and did, up to 18 volts. Then it died, instantly, complete with a smoke show. Returned first one, this one's going back as well. Utter garbage product, do NOT buy.
Vishwapal Singh
Reviewed in India on November 6, 2022
I have been using this product from past 2years not any issue with this product works perfectly also I have upgraded my system so smar product installed value for money and easy to use, install and read the readings.
M Watson
Reviewed in the United States on October 25, 2022
These are easy to hook up and the readout looks good. There are tiny adjustment pots on the back for voltage and current. I haven't needed to make any adjustments so far. Can be a little tricky to install. The bezel frame is a bit narrow, so you don't want to over-cut your opening for this, better to sneak up on it than cut it too big and have a gap showing. Will be buying again, and again...
M Kelly
Reviewed in the United States on September 5, 2020
Use these to monitor 1/64 scale slot car track lane V/A having 1 for each lane. Accuracy is acceptable but not precise which I didn't expect anyway for what these are but function for the intended purpose. Problem is them not functioning properly using track power supply packs. Mystery as to why after trying several standard supplies but in standby,no racing,blink on/off constantly with steady power. Only way they function is with a supply having a oem interference coil style supply or separate battery. Tried add on coils around wire but same problem. So far,1 month or so,have worked where the other 3 wire only types failed miserably. Likely use these again for replacments.
JPK
Reviewed in the United States on November 11, 2020
I use this to build a quad battery charger for my son's RC boats. We use the 12V outlet from my car as the power source. I actually get about 14V into the charger and the four batteries end up at about 7-8V. I have to turn the calibration pots on both V and I to get it close to my DMM readings. I'm within 0.1V now and about 10-20mA which is good enough for my application. Fun project to build with my son.
Terry G Hoffman
Reviewed in the United States on May 3, 2019
I am building an amateur radio battery box and this meter would have been used to monitor the charge voltage and current to the battery. However, the current was off by more than 50% reading way too low per the Fluke 87 meter I used to try to calibrate it. The adjustment on the panel meter was not near enough to cover the adjustment needed. This meter is only good for reading voltage which was pretty accurate. The current reading is so bad, this is going into the e-waste bin and I will look for another one that will give me a current reading that I can actually believe and use.Update 05/25/19: The vendor sent me another meter after reading my review. The second meter was very much better than the first one. I was able to adjust the second meter to about 100mA from the actual current. The meter reads about 100mA over what the Fluke meter is showing. Once the adjustment is set to the minimum, the meter reads 100mA over the actual for all ranges from 3.00A to under 1.00A. I tried setting the current to zero with no load connected by shorting the two pins labeled I-ADJ-Z and applying power, but, it did not seem to make any difference. With no load connected, the meter reads 0.07A. If the zero adjust worked, this meter might be ok with the original shunt.For the first meter, I tried adjusting the shunt by filing a notch without success. So, I ordered some 7.5mohm resistors from Mouser (P/N: 71-WSLP25127L500FEA), cut out the shunt, and soldered a resistor in its place. The meter is now usable. I can set the current at 3.00A to match what the Fluke meter is reading. The meter is a bit non-linear and reads about 50mA too low under 1.00A. However, for my needs, it is accurate enough. So, my recommendation is that, if you get a meter that is too far off for the current reading, just purchase some 7.5mohm resistors to replace the shunt. See the pictures for details on the modification.I have upgraded my review to three stars because the second meter could not zero and the first meter was not useful until the shunt was replaced with a shunt resistor. Being an electronic engineer, it was not a problem for me. However, non-engineers might not know how to make changes to the circuit to make the meter work acceptably.
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