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Your cart is empty.Clutch slave cylinder leaking or malfunctioning? This direct replacement is precision-engineered to match the original equipment design in specific vehicle years, makes and models for a reliable replacement. This part is compatible with the following vehicles. Before purchasing, enter your vehicle trim in the garage tool to confirm fitment. [Dodge Nitro: 2007, 2008] - [Jeep Liberty: 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012] - [Jeep Wrangler JK: 2018] - [Jeep Wrangler: 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017]
matthew
Reviewed in the United States on March 2, 2025
Works well on a jeep wrangler
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on September 28, 2024
Installed per the instructions, connected hose, torqued nuts down, and began bleeding as instructed (pump 10-20 times before opening bleeder). Only pumped the clutch pedal 10x per valve open. On the third or fourth round, the seal around the slave piston blew out and started pouring fluid into the bell housing. Dorman clearly has quality control issues with these units.I initiated a return, and bought a replacement of a different brand from the local parts store and was able to actually complete the bleeding process.I’ve typically had good experiences with Dorman products, but I’ll be avoiding them in the future for anything other than cheap fasteners.
John Thomas
Reviewed in the United States on June 22, 2024
It took me a few tries to bleed the air out of the hydraulic line but overall it was an easy install
Cjr
Reviewed in the United States on May 21, 2024
Worked as an awesome replacement for my 2011 jeep wrangler.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on May 2, 2024
Easy install. Works perfect
Bud Bruce
Reviewed in the United States on February 28, 2023
This is perfect for the 08 with a 3.8 Jeep Wrangler. I hate buying stuff like this because it says it'll fit and then it doesn't, but this will fit the 08 Wrangler. Perfect fit bleeding and all took about 45 minutes to replace it. But you can rebuild your own because I took my old one apart and all it is is an o-ring. I rebuilt my old one so I'll have it to use if I need another.
simon davies
Reviewed in Canada on November 13, 2021
The original slave packed up suddenly as they tend to.Only vehicle and couldn't get a local parts shop to post one out.Got this new one in about a week, installed myself with no issues thinking I might have to replace again shortly but two years later it's still perfect.
L8knight
Reviewed in the United States on January 5, 2021
After several months of tolerating a loud squeaking sound whenever I pressed on the clutch, I finally felt (based on researching Jeep forums) that this was the most likely cause. I had tried greasing the spring at the top of the clutch pedal because the sound being so loud I couldn't believe it could be coming from anywhere else. When that didn't work and the things I read pointed towards the slave cylinder I went ahead and ordered this one. I've had it installed a couple months and have driven a large number of miles already (including a 16 hour road trip). I can safely say the noise is absolutely gone and I have zero issues, the clutch actually feels better.I will say, when I first installed the part, the first day the noise wasn't entirely gone which made me think I'd made a mistake and this wasn't the problem. By day 2 though, it was completely gone. I think this may be due to not fully bleeding the line or some slight pockets that needed to work their way out. Not sure. I did bleed the lines the best way I could and would definitely say this is the worst part of the installation.Not too difficult of an install, should take less than an hour all together. Quality is on par with the stock cylinder.
Len M.
Reviewed in Canada on January 26, 2021
This part is a direct fit for my JK. The hydraulic line just snapped right in and other than the tight space to work in... I didn’t remove driveshaft, it just bolted right up. The only thing I would suggest would be to buy some hose to fit on the bleeder in order to bleed clutch properly as the bleeder points straight up and will make quite a mess if you don’t.
Ben
Reviewed in Canada on February 24, 2019
Work well will take few years to see if it is as good as original
Alex N
Reviewed in Canada on December 30, 2019
Worked perfectly for my 2008 Wrangler JK. Be sure to save the little rubber tip from the existing brake line, or it'll leak.
Customer
Reviewed in Canada on April 15, 2019
Installed this a couple of months ago (2011 Jeep Wrangler Sport). Took about an hour (but I am a DYI'er, so could be quicker for someone who knows what they are doing). No more fluid leaking from the housing and seems to be working great. Much less expensive than buying through local parts store (for the same brand)
1995Wrangler
Reviewed in the United States on March 20, 2018
"Fixing a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder in a 2007 Wrangler" I did an install video online under that title.I LOST MY CLUTCH….. AGAIN! Different Jeep though. There is that monument when you start the jeep and it just takes off, it was an indication of a problem. The clutch had very little action and that only near the floor. As I left and headed out in 5 o’clock traffic I soon discovered that shifting and stopping were going to be an issue. I drove home in 3rd gear slowing to avoid a stop and stall. Under the transmission bell at the seam there was some fluid dripping. This was my second clue. Here is the list of tools and part numbers to get the repair done.Pros:Quick shipping.Perfect fit.Easy to bleed.All parts included.Cons:It needs a zip tie thing that snaps off after inserted like on a YJ.Getting it to compress and line up is hard if pre-bled.Tools needed:13 MM deep socket6 inch extensionRatchetSmall flathead.DOT3 fluid.Drip pan. Place pan under cylinder to catch fluid.Step one:Remove two nuts holding clutch cylinder to transmission. Unhook any cables in the way.Step two.Use small flat head to remove retaining clip on top where line connects.Twist and pull, watch out to make sure rubber fitting is not damaged, you may need that.Step three.Attach new cylinder and secure with hairpin clip. The line needs to be pushed completely in or it will pop out.Step four.Bleed cylinder by pushing plunger in slowly till you can’t hear air bubbles passing through to reservoir. This took around 15 times for me. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR.Step five.Make sure plunger is properly aligned and push towards mounting bolts. Check to see if line bracket is lined up with holes on side of cylinder.Step six.Tighten bolts and secure all disconnected components.Step seven.Bleed cylinder as needed. If needed have someone push the clutch in as you open the valve to let any air bubbles out. Just like brakes.Check to see if clutch is properly working and no grinding occurs when shifting. If all goes well there should be no fluid on the lower portion of the transmission bell and you should be good to go.
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