Big upgrade over OEM ender 3 neo max board allowing more function and klipper runs smooth and quick on this machine. Good value for the amount of functionality. Seems to be well built and all solder joints are clean. great heat dissipation. Just take pictures of your old board and pretty easy to follow and install.

Has good speed and noise level is low but when you go to dial it in with inputshaper it has a habit of crashing on the stock cb1

I tried flashing CB1 OS on 2 different Sandisk SD cards and nothing happened. I also tried balena etcher and raspberry pi imager. The board does not connect to wifi, LAN or output an HDMI signal.

I am building a Lowrider V3 CNC from V1 Engineering and this forms part of that build. I have done the 3D printing part of the build and gathering all of the necessary parts.Whilst I haven't put everything together yet, after my initial research and inspection of this, I am very happy. I will update the review once I have completed the build.

I have a k2m and if you own any newer anycubic printer you know that they don’t give you the full version of klipper so I wanted a good board packed with features and this was it! Happy with my purchase and definitely will be keeping this board on hand for any other bed slinger projects I have in the future.

I have an Ender 3 V2, and I bought this for 2 reasons.1. I switched from Marlin to Klipper, which required a Raspberry Pi. However, the Pi4 is unstable and would regularly reset.2. I added a second Z-Axis motor, but it could not be separately controlled. I needed something with 5 independent motor drivers.This has served both these purposes perfectly.The power supply was designed around the power issues associated with the Pi4, and it is quite stable.For dual Z-Axis control, do not use the Z1/Z2 outputs directly. They are both connected to the same driver. In my case, one motor is on Z1, but the other motor is on E1 (Second extruder). In printer.cfg, you just have to add a second stepper [stepper_z1] and use the control pins from the [extruder1] section.Then you will want to add a [z_tilt] section. This will allow Klipper to adjust each Z axis motor to level out the gantry. Separate drivers for each Z motor is also much quieter.The CB1 is pretty good, too. It's comparable in power to a Raspberry Pi 3. BTT's OS image worked without issue. If you are going to use WiFi, remember to connect the WiFi antenna. The module doesn't get reception on its own. And if you have extra motor heatsinks, they are actually perfect for cooling the SOC.As far as value: This is actually the least expensive combination I have been able to find. In many cases, the compute module alone is comparable in price to this entire combo. Prices fluctuate, though, so make this comparison for yourself. This product is not perfect (see the Cons section), but it is about the best you can get at this price point. As far as I'm concerned, if you connect this to an Ender 3, you will have the ability to max it out. If you should need anything more, you'll probably want to get an entirely new printer.Pros:- Great power stability- Great value- 5 motor drivers- Tons of connectivity expansion. Neopixel header, BLTouch header, several fans, accelerometer etc.- CB1 has prebuilt images for Klipper, and the E3EZ has pre-built, annotated config files.- It comes with connectors and pins for assembling connectors as needed. This was MUCH appreciated.Cons:- I hear it has issues with the Ender 3 enclosure. The OS SD card interferes with the side of the case, and applying too much force could strip the SD card slot off completely. I have an external enclosure, so this didn't affect me. But keep it in mind if you are trying to fit it into an ender 3.- Some of the end stop connectors have latches that keep them from fitting onto this board. I simply had to snip them off.Improvements:- It would be awesome if they added support for 12v fans on >12v systems. Perhaps a 12v power stage, or an external fan power input with a jumper. This would open a lot of doors for upgrades- They should probably provide configs and clarify in the overview that you can use something like E1 as a second Z axis driver. That was a selling point for me, but I had to look deeper to see if I could do it.

I bought this board for dual z-axis stepper drivers and I wanted to be able to add a second extruder later on. I now can level the gantry with bl touch. I am currently watching my first print come off the machine and the board really seems to perform! I'm very happy with the the board.I don't have anything bad to say about the board itself. The challenges were in mounting and firmware for me which should be expected for this type of update. I have mine mounted on the left side in the rear on a flat panel exposed for now as I deal with wiring. I'll mount it proper once I get all the bugs out.I would recommend github desktop If you don't already have it. It is very helpful getting the code you need and showing you the changes you have made from stock.

The board is generally good quality with decent features and reasonable price. Unfortunately, some of these boards have issues with endstops not working properly. I had to solder extra pullup resistors to get the endstops to work. Other wise great product.

Let me start by saying that I'm a controls engineer in an engine CNC plant.I have my first 3D printer, a Creality Ender 5 that I've tried several boards on. The stock board works and nothing more - and it's loud. I first switched to an MKS Gen L with TMC2208 steppers and a fanless power supply - Wow, huge difference in noise levels. Then i jumped to a Duet Maestro (Genuine, not a clone) and it's an awesome board - ticks almost every box of mine except being able to customize, change steppers, etc. After that I bought an SKR v1.3 - great board that forced me to learn Marlin 2.0 since it's 32bit. I never installed it because I learned about the SKR Pro before i got around to installing it.This SKR Pro was a bit of a challenge because of how new it is and there's not the same wealth of info like there is for say the Gen L. At first, I though my SKR Pro wasn't working because I couldn't see the SD card when I connected the board to my computer with a USB cable. Kingprint reached out to me right away and answered my questions and pointed me in the right direction. I still haven't connected this board to my printer because I'm happy enough with the Duet. But, I've got the firmware all configured and have tested it with steppers, LCD and thermister as well as the Wifi module. I'm collecting parts for a major overhaul and will install the Pro then - I'm really looking forward to that.The overhaul will include the SKR Pro V1.1, BL Touch, Hero Me fan shroud on an E3D V6 hotend.BTW - I've looked at touchscreens several times and I still come back to the RepRap smart controller 12864 as the easiest, most useful and sensible display of all - especially if you're using Octoprint anyway.Bottom line on the SKR Pro V1.1 --Buy from Kingprint, they're great to deal with-It's the most versatile and configurable board out there-supports up to 6 steppers, 3 hotends, 3 fans-32bit**Update**I have the board installed and began testing on my Ender 5. I had to go into Marlins' pins file and remap the endstop pins so they would work as X_Max and Y_Max instead of X_Min and Y_Min due to the location of the Ender 5's limit switches. I homed all axis and then moved them to their extents but discovered they were travelling too far. (2x too far). I changed steps per mm from 80,80,400, 415 to 40,40,200,210 and it seems to work but is only a mask IMO. I am using TMC2208 V2.1 but have ordered v3.0 to use UART without extra wires. That might have worked with the V2.1's but I read about the firmware changes required after ordering the V3.0's - Oh well, we'll see