3.5 stars, since this should work for 30A 10awg.I don't believe this will work very well for 125A cabling (1/0 to 2AWG copper), there isn't room in the box, nor enough clearance to the internal switch. However, it should work for 30A (10awg).Pros: -- plastic case seems about typical for this size box, sturdy enough -- case has KO's (down side: they are poorly located) -- case has good appearance with warning label -- switch has a good feel -- includes a gasket, although the switch shaft is not sealed so this is "nice" but doesn't make the unit we rated. -- includes some odd silicone items that appear to pop into an KO as a sort of ersatz seal? If using THHN or THWN or similar, there is raceway, if using "Romex", a clamp is needed. Not sure how to use these, no instructions.Cons: -- instructions are lacking, only minimal instructions on which contacts are closed or open in which switch position. The Amazon information should include how to connect to the switch (more on that later), and the box volume for wire calculations. -- insufficient space for connections beyond perhaps 30A (10awg) -- contacts don't inspire confidence for switching under load, but contacts should function for occasional use -- the connections at the switch are not the typical "bolt squeezing a plate to hold a wire" but ... just a bolt with two lock washers (star and split). So a lug should be used on the end of a stranded heavy gauge wire. What size? Oh, the mfg doesn't say , see later comments. Perhaps they believe this arrangement is sufficient to hold stranded wire without a lug. -- As the switch is not UL listed, I tend to be overly conservative in use. Probably the connection is secure enough for using solid 10awg without a lug with the unusual star/split washer arrangement. I am not so sure about larger stranded wire, which may lack enough contact area in this arrangement. Thus my opinion that a lug should be used.Intended application: switch to select input of either a generator or mains power, feeding a subpanel that powers a few items such as water and refrigerator. 3 poles so that optionally the neutral can be switched if that is needed in the future. The generator feed is 6awg (30A OCPD), 6awg due to a long run to the generator, 4 wire (240v split phase with neutral and EGC), the mains feed is 10awg, the output is 10awg to the subpanel. This box would need to accept the 6awg Cu stranded THWN in raceway, the other wires are 10awg solid Cu; the raceway has 4x6awg with two going to the switch needing enough room for at least two of the wires to pass through the box.This oversized switch was selected to allow sufficient space to handle all this wire and the Y connections-- the output of the switch has to "Y" from the outputs of the switched inputs.What can go wrong? -- the KOs are positioned next to the switch body, this simply doesn't work, there isn't clearance for heavy gauge wire entry and bending. Additional holes need to be drilled, not a big effort for plastic but really the KOs need to be at the back/bottom of the case. Good idea to have KOs ready, not well executed. -- there isn't any information on how to connect the switch. The bolts are M6-1.0 (6mm major diameter, for US that means 5/16" hole in a lug), width at the bolt for the lug is 22mm (about 7/8") so most lugs will fit the width. Importantly, the distance from the bolt to the case is 1.5-2", for my application of 6awg this means a quality lug that can be bent because the lug is too long with the wire to fit inside the case. Well, ok, but why isn't this information provided on Amazon before anyone buys this item? Is one expected to connect 2awg stranded to these bolts without a lug? -- on top of all this, if one actually wanted to run, say, 90A (4awg) there isn't enough room in the case for all this wire, and more importantly, bending the wire and stuffing all that heavy gauge wire back into the plastic case (to meet code having enough wire to pull the switch out of the case). Yes it can be made to work by having the excess wire slide out of the plastic case, but this causes more work, usually the feeds for larger gauges are in raceway. No, I am not spending a day making this work to save a few dollars.So the 125A rating is nice but irrelevant for this item, the real use is 30A 10awg Cu (better with solid) with enough space to actually feed the wires and re-assemble the unit. If higher current is needed, or heavier gauge wires, it is better to go to a metal box such a VEVOR or similar steel enclosure and mount a BAOMAIN switch in the box cover, with enough room for the wires and connections. Yes, this means punching KOs and cutting mounting holes, which I was trying to avoid with this Baomain Universal Rotary Changeover Switch LW28-125, but the Baomain simply won't practically support 6awg Cu in my application, never mind even higher power / heavier gauge wire.Final recommendation: if you plan to switch 30A / 10awg this item should work possibly with some effort for adding KOs. A bit bulky for 30A but at least there is room for the wire, and should look nice. Not for wet locations.

This switch works great, I bought this switch to run my shop compressor and my 12” grinder which is located on the other side of my shop from my compressor. I didn’t have enough breakers in my electrical panel to wire my grinder so I decided to purchase this switch to take care of my lack of breakers. I bought the 125 amp switch and box which is way over rated for what I needed but it was so much easer to wire up with the extra space in the box. I would buy this item again!!! Everything is working great....I have to say, I love it.