I teach others about Apoxie Sculpt, I wrote 2 books: Making WOW Jewelry and Make Amazing Jewelry and have so many projects in the books using it.I can find something almost every day to use this! Love it!

This is my favorite adhesive for outdoor mosaic projects. With the rain and temperature changes, it always hold the pieces in place. The black is very black, really nice. And very easy to use.

Sculpting skin texture over a 3D print. Provided detail and strength to the piece.

Used it for the first time. I am trying to make a small sculpture using aluminum wires of different sizes and they hold on to the apoxie sculpt very well I can turn and bend the wires without any worry that they would come off. I tried using polymer clay but just did not work well or maybe I wasn't sure how to use it (I did not like how I had to bake it and then insert the wires in using some kind of glue. It was way too time consuming and a lengthy process). With apoxie sculpt it was very easy, I just inserted the wires in waited for it to dry and twisted, turned and bent my peice to my liking and that's it. It's definitely my preference over anything now. I like how it's extremely versatile.

It's a great product, easy to sculpt with. You can drill or sand it after it dries.Shipped fast.

Very easy to work with, Cures very strong and sands well. This stuff is my favourite sculpting epoxy so far. I've previously been using milliput but find this easier to mix as it is softer, and when dried this clay does not gum up my sandpaper as much.However the material is rather soft at first and is not ideal for a free standing sculpt that does not have an underlying structure. If sculpting onto a head forum or wire base this is idea. When using this to sculpt claw details it was dificult to get the items to maintain shape and not develope unwanted flat surfaces when left to dry on a table.I would reccomend this highly. However make sure you wear some gloves to keep your hands clean and wear a resparator when sanding as the dust is very fine.

masilla de dos componentes de calidad y muy moldeable seca al aire y tienes bastante tiempo de trabajo incuso moldear con agua

j'ai lu trop vite il y a un gris et un noir, le noir est salissant... je me suis retrouvé avec la version noire... sinon le produit est bon

I love this stuff. Been using it for awhile now. Ordered here as opposed to my normal ordering via Aves. Cheaper than manufacturer site with prime ordering. Received as ordered and quickly, which was much appreciated as I was almost out of my supply. I sculpt with it, and when dry I carve on it, sand it, paint it, and mix stuff into it and mount stuff on it when wet. I make tools, make jewelry, gifts, faux raku pottery, and use it for repairs around the house. When cured it is so hard and sturdy, while maintaining such great detail. Tips: Keep your fingers away from your face when handling it, nasty rash results. Use hydrocortisone to clear it up. Working time shortens on hot days to 1hr..speed sculpt! Its best to sculpt in stages, in small quantities. If your doing a large sculpture you can sculpt as you would clay, where you use an inner form of foil or newspaper, but you can leave it inside in this case and seal it up with an outer layer. It will slump, so use molds or other items to prop parts as they cure. Also, just get the color wheel or add pigments to a white base, not really necessary to purchase a rainbow, just mix color into part a, then match the mixed amount ball size to your part b. Oh yeah, best thing i have found to keep surfaces and your hands sticky free is olive oil, or a hand cream with olive oil. I use olive body butter from the body shop, its works grwat even to smooth clay surfaces. After it cures, just rinse the cured clay in blue dawn and water. Btw, use only blue dawn, a dish scrubber and warm water to clean up. Dont forget under your nails, and dont wash uncured clay down sink, it cures under water. You can slow the cure by sticking it in the freezer, and speed the cure by adding a little more part b to part a, instead of the normal 50-50 ratio. Using the olive oil, you can then start with refinements, mica, or whatever while it is still curing, or begin sculpting with it right away, rather then having to let it rest for 15 mins after mixing to get a better sculpting consistency. Anyways, love love it, and I will order again for sure. I'm addicted to the stuff!!

I loved this. I am trying to make a pair of shoes for my husbands giant size 16 xxxxxwide feet which are further swollen from back problems. I decided to make an Alginate mold of his feet and filled it with plaster, to make a copy of his feet to use as a custom shoe last, around which to build his shoes. I had purchased this stuff because I wanted something moldable, durable, and waterproof when cured and air drying that I knew would stick to the plaster last well, as if it was part of it, in order to sculpt out a toe box on the plaster shoe last to give that extra half inch or so that you need at the end of a shoe to make it comfortable and to give it shape. I have used apoxie clay before in the distant past, so I already knew it was the only thing out there that would have that combination of qualities that I needed to get the job done, so I was so glad to find it still available on Amazon.But, because my husbands feet are huge, I underestimated how much plaster I would need to fill the mold. I ended up using every bit of plaster I had purchased, and I had to water the plaster down more than I wanted to be able to stretch it to be able to do both feet before the Alginate molds deteriorated. The resulting copy of his feet were a bit more brital than I had expected. I was wondering if I would even be able to use them at all, or if I could find some epoxy based sealant to coat them up and strengthen them.Apoxie to the rescue. I decided to go ahead and sculpt the apoxie sculpt toe box over the toes and just see what happens. It sculpted it up beautifully and smooth, and I was able to smooth it out to perfection by sticking my fingers in a bit of water to smooth it out as I went. I had much more apoxie left over than I expected, so I smoothed a thin layer of apoxie over the rest of the foot, filling in craters and supporting the brittle spots.The apoxie cured overnight and the next morning it was perfectly cured and ready to be used, much faster than I thought it would. Rock hard, and I was even able to sand it s bit to get a few lumps I had left out. The best part is that the layer of Apoxie over the brittle areas are so strong now that I don't even need to use a sealer or anything to strengthen it any more.Like I wouldn't drill or nail into my sculpture, because of the underlying plaster, but I would have no qualms about it if I had to do in the area just beyond the toe, where it is totally apoxie and no plaster at all. If the whole sculpture was made of apoxie, it would have been ideal.Why can't y'all make some sort of epoxy based plaster, apoxie? Something that can be poured into molds. I'd love y'all forever.Because it is black, it did a number on my hands. I happened to have an unused dollar store pumice stone, the kind people use for pedicures laying around, and that worked pretty good at helping me wash it off my hands. Also, I'm not sure if it would accept a lighter paint color very well, being black. It would probably need primer first. However, shoe lasts don't need to be pretty, so I'm ok without panting it. My husbands combination black apoxie and white plaster shoe lasts look like panda feet. :)If you get some of this stuff, I suggest you get a $1 pumice stone or some heavy duty gritty hand cleaner to help you with cleanup afterwards. I would have been in trouble had I not had my pumice stone.But apoxie is great, and I don't use it often, it's the best option for when a need for something clay-like, moldable, air drying, adhesive/sticking (as in, to add a good solid protrusion to an existing sculpture or item) and waterproof for a project.