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Your cart is empty.This 3/4 inch water pressure reducing valve is designed to reduce incoming water pressure to protect plumbing systems and reduce water consumption for commercial, industrial and residential applications. The easy maintenance assembly consists of a lead free brass body construction, double union solder inlet and outlet connection, stainless steel integral strainer, thermoplastic seat module, thermal expansion bypass and a sealed spring cage for waterworks pit installations. The temperature range is 33 to 180 degrees F (0.5 to 82 degrees C). Suitable for up to 400 psi (27.6 bar), the pressure range can be adjusted from 25 to 75 psi (172 to 517 kPa) with the standard setting at 50 psi (345 kPa).
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on February 10, 2025
This worked to reduce the incoming water pressure from 100psi to 70psi. Easy to install, easy to adjust to desired pressure and appears to be a well made durable product. Great value for the money. Not much more to say
Ron Laberge
Reviewed in Canada on September 28, 2024
Missing parts cannot use
D.L.
Reviewed in the United States on September 26, 2024
Work great. Easy install and fit well no leaks. No tape/ dope need. Come with O ring.
Jenna
Reviewed in the United States on November 19, 2024
I bought this model after trying a different brand to replace my current Watts LFX65B. My unions are soldered so having matching threads is important for ease of install. The other brand I tried (Cash Acme) had different threads on the valve body so the original unions did not work. This one was a perfect replacement and very easy to install. So far it is holding pressure steady as well.
Sue B.
Reviewed in the United States on October 30, 2024
I bought this to replace a 20-year-old N35B in my new home that not only wasn't regulating pressure anymore, it was leaking and making a mess. I have included a photo of the old setup. I was able to simply loosen the nuts, slide the old regulator out, clean the existing threads and mating surfaces, slightly dope up the threads on the new regulator, and carefully slide it in without pinching the O-rings. I didn't need to sweat anything, but the parts were provided to do that if necessary. Once I tightened it up, it worked like a charm and I had 50 psi. Unlike the old N35B, this one is adjustable, so I turned the screw about six revolutions and got 60 psi. This was so much less expensive and less time-consuming than calling a plumber, even including the cost of the big wrench I had to buy.
SML
Reviewed in the United States on April 15, 2024
I purchased the 1” Watts LFN45BM1-U to replace my 30 year old Watts N35B. It is the exact same length. This came with two O rings, and a flange. The flange has 1” female threads. A second flange can be purchased depending on the configuration needed. The unit also has 1” female threads on both the inlet and outlet. My original installation used a flange on the inlet and threads on the outlet. The price was right and Amazon delivered it the next morning!Installation tips: If your replacing an older PRV where you have a flange on one end and threaded on the other end, you may have difficulty getting enough clearance to unthread, remove and replace the PRV. Mine was installed on a very short section of 1” copper pipe. It came up through my garage floor through a shutoff and the PRV and then went to an elbow. To get enough room I used a board and a handcut wedge and hammer to carefully prop up the pipe at the elbow to gain enough room. I screwed one end on and then carefully insert one of the O rings before tightening up the flange. For some reason Teflon tape failed to seal twice, I ended up using pipe dope.The symptom that lead to the replacement was a sudden spike in pressure when turning on a tap after having heated hot water. I reasoned that I needed an expansion tank, as per code for a closed system. My house built in 1994 never had one. After installing the expansion tank properly I was getting an extended amount of high pressure. When I installed the expansion tank I measured the water pressure to be 60 psi. Purchased a new maximum reading pressure gauge for my hose bib and discovered the pressure would slowly creep up to 82 psi or 94 psi if the expansion tank valve was closed. Isolating the hot water heater also showed sharp increases in pressure. With a faucet running the old PRV would maintain around 50 psi but would slowly build by its own (pressure creep). The new valve is supposed to be set at the factory for 50 psi, but seems to actually be providing 55 psi. Worked great, didn’t bother to change it.If this new PRV fails early I will update my review
Gene D.
Reviewed in Canada on August 9, 2023
I like the size and a good name Watts
beata krupinska
Reviewed in Canada on July 8, 2023
Pressure Tested & Works Perfectly
McAlpine
Reviewed in Canada on March 14, 2023
At first I wasn’t sure I appreciate only having the one compression fitting but turns out that I needed the space so not having to deal with the extra 3/4” actually worked to my advantage. Pressure is now steady at 65psi adjusting from 50 to 65 too about 4-6 turns.
George W. Henkel
Reviewed in Canada on July 25, 2019
No more worries of the house flooding and no running water. The Pressure regulator arrived faster than expected. It was installed and works great. Thanks for the great service.
Jacks
Reviewed in the United States on January 15, 2019
I have a well and a pump house. The well pumps into a 200 gallon equivalent pressure tank (30-50 psi),, which pumps into a 1000 gallon holding tank via a Robertson valve (pretty much a large version of what's in your toilet tank). The holding tank is at 1 bar (14.7 psi) and allows diffused gas to be released from the well water so only water is pumped to the house.What gas? Don't know, don't care. Chlorine injection: let's you sleep at night.The water from the holding tank is not pressurized (well, maybe, max 2psi) and is sent to the house via a Grundfos MQ3-45 booster pump.The booster pump was supposed to keep pressure between 45 and 65 psi, but no. Pressures of 85 to 90 psi seen at house: ruptured toilet feeds; fun, fun, fun 'til your daddy takes the t-bird away.Enter our hero: LFN45BM1-U 1" water reducing valve.The 1" LFN45BM1-U 1" water reducing valve has 1, 1" union valve. Which is confusing, but it also has two 1" FPT threaded connections on either end (MPT, FPT and NPT are all the same standard -- M == Male, F == Female, N == either or both).I chose to make the brass union coupler into a really snazzy Xmas ornament, which I don't have a picture of, but it's really fetching.Who says pumbing isn't exciting?To connect the pressure reducing valve, I used two 1" Male PVC connectors, which are screwed into the valve (copious amounts of Teflon tape; really torque these down as the NPT standard is designed for this); and glued to the existing PVC between the pump and the house (e.g. torque male PVC to valve, glue slip to existing PVC).I also had two 1" slip x 1/2" threaded FPT tees, with brass 1/2" MPT x 1/4" FPT reducer adapters so I can have a pressure gauge before the valve and after the valve for adjustment/fun purposes. See adjustment instructions included with valve, but it's basically: loosen lock nut, righty highty, lefty lowy.Sure, I could adjust the booster pump, but this is a black art and seldom practiced (existing internet sources talk about "adjusting pressure", but not "what pressure" -- low pressure, high pressure??). Besides, if, in the future I want to install some other kind of booster pump, I already have a watchdog to keep the toilets from exploding.
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