I have been using this one for long time for the universal catalytic converter attached with pipe clamps,

I have been using this one for long time for the universal catalytic converter attached with pipe clamps,

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Used for new muffler install. Worked great!

Used for new muffler install. Worked great!

IF YOU PURCHASE THIS PRODUCT CHECK IT FIRST.What I received was all dried up, no stickiness at all. I had the car jacked up and pipe all cleaned before I had opened the package so I still tried to use it, hoping it would seal after it heating but it broke several times trying to rap it.

IF YOU PURCHASE THIS PRODUCT CHECK IT FIRST.What I received was all dried up, no stickiness at all. I had the car jacked up and pipe all cleaned before I had opened the package so I still tried to use it, hoping it would seal after it heating but it broke several times trying to rap it.

This is an extremely difficult product to apply and they need to go back to the drawing board on how people are supposed to apply this.The directions seem simple but in practice they aren't. It's so sticky that using your hands is out of the question, unless you have some strong solvents to remove the glue (Acetone, MEK, Lacquer Thinner, Brake Cleaner, etc). Even gloves are kind of pointless, they stick to it too. Peeling the wrappers off are another problem, there are three (one clear on each side, one brown on one side), those are ALSO sticky so you're trying to remove those while simultaneously trying to remove the sticky wrap from your hands, while simultaneously trying to wrap it around the pipe. I've seen comments about freezing it but don't know how that would work given the pipe has to be hot for this to be applied.Other than the annoyance of the excessive stickiness, some people give up at the beginning because of the opposite problem, they start sticking it to the pipe and it keeps falling off! Especially because it seems to stick better to your hand than the pipe! One helpful piece of information, don't expect the first layer to stick to the pipe by itself, it doesn't work that way. The tape sticks best to itself rather than an exhaust pipe at least until you're done installing and cure it. Hold the very start of the first layer in place (use one finger), use your other hand to start winding the patch on the pipe, when the winding gets back to where your other finger is holding it (meaning one full 360 loop), overlap it but off by one inch so your finger clears. Once you've wound it at least one full loop so at least two layers are stuck to each other and cinched tight, you can let go with that finger and keep winding without holding anything.Other tapes may be easier to apply since they forgo the use of sticky adhesives and instead use epoxy gels, they remain liquid and non-tacky indefinitely and only harden and stick when heated (which is presumably after you're done installing it).In the end it didn't work for me. I tried to use this to repair a complete separation of a pipe as if someone had cut straight through its diameter with a reciprocating saw (a bisection). Neither side was applying any leverage to the other, both were suspended in air, I bridged the separation with a tin can as a sleeve so that no load or bend would be applied to this product (the instructions tell you to do this). The repair was about 5" downstream from one of the catalytic converters on an Infiniti G35, the heat was probably too much for the patch to bear. When I checked the failed patch, it had indeed hardened into a rock hard sleeve but it looked like the heat had caused the sleeve to burn and lose adhesion from the pipe. It would probably work better for cooler engines (less revs, less cylinders, smaller displacements) and better for small leaks in exhaust components located as far downstream as possible from the hottest components which are the engine, exhaust manifold and any catalytic converters. Installing it on a high rev 3.5L V6 engine close to the catalytic converter was likely never going to work. I ended up just buying a Y pipe and replacing it, no shortcuts to fixing it right I suppose. Would I ever try a patch again? If it's on a cooler part of the exhaust and the leak is the diameter of a pencil eraser (or smaller) maybe, any larger no.

This is an extremely difficult product to apply and they need to go back to the drawing board on how people are supposed to apply this.The directions seem simple but in practice they aren't. It's so sticky that using your hands is out of the question, unless you have some strong solvents to remove the glue (Acetone, MEK, Lacquer Thinner, Brake Cleaner, etc). Even gloves are kind of pointless, they stick to it too. Peeling the wrappers off are another problem, there are three (one clear on each side, one brown on one side), those are ALSO sticky so you're trying to remove those while simultaneously trying to remove the sticky wrap from your hands, while simultaneously trying to wrap it around the pipe. I've seen comments about freezing it but don't know how that would work given the pipe has to be hot for this to be applied.Other than the annoyance of the excessive stickiness, some people give up at the beginning because of the opposite problem, they start sticking it to the pipe and it keeps falling off! Especially because it seems to stick better to your hand than the pipe! One helpful piece of information, don't expect the first layer to stick to the pipe by itself, it doesn't work that way. The tape sticks best to itself rather than an exhaust pipe at least until you're done installing and cure it. Hold the very start of the first layer in place (use one finger), use your other hand to start winding the patch on the pipe, when the winding gets back to where your other finger is holding it (meaning one full 360 loop), overlap it but off by one inch so your finger clears. Once you've wound it at least one full loop so at least two layers are stuck to each other and cinched tight, you can let go with that finger and keep winding without holding anything.Other tapes may be easier to apply since they forgo the use of sticky adhesives and instead use epoxy gels, they remain liquid and non-tacky indefinitely and only harden and stick when heated (which is presumably after you're done installing it).In the end it didn't work for me. I tried to use this to repair a complete separation of a pipe as if someone had cut straight through its diameter with a reciprocating saw (a bisection). Neither side was applying any leverage to the other, both were suspended in air, I bridged the separation with a tin can as a sleeve so that no load or bend would be applied to this product (the instructions tell you to do this). The repair was about 5" downstream from one of the catalytic converters on an Infiniti G35, the heat was probably too much for the patch to bear. When I checked the failed patch, it had indeed hardened into a rock hard sleeve but it looked like the heat had caused the sleeve to burn and lose adhesion from the pipe. It would probably work better for cooler engines (less revs, less cylinders, smaller displacements) and better for small leaks in exhaust components located as far downstream as possible from the hottest components which are the engine, exhaust manifold and any catalytic converters. Installing it on a high rev 3.5L V6 engine close to the catalytic converter was likely never going to work. I ended up just buying a Y pipe and replacing it, no shortcuts to fixing it right I suppose. Would I ever try a patch again? If it's on a cooler part of the exhaust and the leak is the diameter of a pencil eraser (or smaller) maybe, any larger no.

Good but does not last on muffler.

Good but does not last on muffler.

This worked for about a week of maybe 4 hours of driving. If you looking for a long fix I would go to the shop and get it fixed.. this lasted for like I said 4 hours max. Sound of the broken exhaust was gone. But the tape smelt burnt like right away. I left my vans internal air rotating in the van.

This worked for about a week of maybe 4 hours of driving. If you looking for a long fix I would go to the shop and get it fixed.. this lasted for like I said 4 hours max. Sound of the broken exhaust was gone. But the tape smelt burnt like right away. I left my vans internal air rotating in the van.

It’s a little pricey for the size of the tape. I would love this in a 10 foot roll instead of only 3 feet.

It’s a little pricey for the size of the tape. I would love this in a 10 foot roll instead of only 3 feet.

Easy to apply and sets up hard as a rock.

Easy to apply and sets up hard as a rock.

I'm not overly impressed. It's not a terrible product, but I had higher expectations. Instructions were unclear, so I had to watch a YouTube video to figure it out. First, you have to peal off the opaque backing. Then, you need to peal off clear cellophane from both sides of the tape (very, very difficult to get started but then comes off easily). It is adhesive on both sides, so use gloves or you will have black, sticky residue on your fingers that is difficult to remove. Once it dries, it is brittle and doesn't stand up to wear and tear. For small, temporary repairs I'm sure it's fine, but for a larger job with more damage, it won't hold up.

I'm not overly impressed. It's not a terrible product, but I had higher expectations. Instructions were unclear, so I had to watch a YouTube video to figure it out. First, you have to peal off the opaque backing. Then, you need to peal off clear cellophane from both sides of the tape (very, very difficult to get started but then comes off easily). It is adhesive on both sides, so use gloves or you will have black, sticky residue on your fingers that is difficult to remove. Once it dries, it is brittle and doesn't stand up to wear and tear. For small, temporary repairs I'm sure it's fine, but for a larger job with more damage, it won't hold up.

you need to apply this when the pipe is warm to the touch to activate the adhesive on it... i let the car cool down for about 30 mins so it was warm to the touch without scalding my hand... wear some rubber gloves since this product is fiberglass or you will itch... with the pipe still warm, start to wrap the pipe overlapping it by 50%... once you get it on, use a heat gun to further melt the product on to create the bond with the pipe... since i had some bends, the patch kept loosening so i used some heat wrap on top of the tigerpatch and then secured it all with stainless steel zip ties...once that is all done, go for a drive to get the exhaust up to operative temperature... you will smell a burning smell from the tigerpatch... it is the fiberglass getting heated... i found that if i went for short drives, when i parked and got out of the car, i could smell it the worst... but i then took it on the highway to fully cure the patch... this basically resolved the smell since i think any of the stray fibers burned off and the patch hardened... so far so good

you need to apply this when the pipe is warm to the touch to activate the adhesive on it... i let the car cool down for about 30 mins so it was warm to the touch without scalding my hand... wear some rubber gloves since this product is fiberglass or you will itch... with the pipe still warm, start to wrap the pipe overlapping it by 50%... once you get it on, use a heat gun to further melt the product on to create the bond with the pipe... since i had some bends, the patch kept loosening so i used some heat wrap on top of the tigerpatch and then secured it all with stainless steel zip ties...once that is all done, go for a drive to get the exhaust up to operative temperature... you will smell a burning smell from the tigerpatch... it is the fiberglass getting heated... i found that if i went for short drives, when i parked and got out of the car, i could smell it the worst... but i then took it on the highway to fully cure the patch... this basically resolved the smell since i think any of the stray fibers burned off and the patch hardened... so far so good

Purchased a used cheap truck because it's hard to fit my wife's wheelchair in the car with anything else. The truck needed a new muffler; the old one had a hole in it and was really loud. YouTubed a video on how to fix it until I could replace it, which showed using a soda can and this tape. Worked like a charm. Muffler was way lower until I got it fixed.It does get really stuck on your hands though.

Purchased a used cheap truck because it's hard to fit my wife's wheelchair in the car with anything else. The truck needed a new muffler; the old one had a hole in it and was really loud. YouTubed a video on how to fix it until I could replace it, which showed using a soda can and this tape. Worked like a charm. Muffler was way lower until I got it fixed.It does get really stuck on your hands though.

Fixes exhaust leaks, as long as the part if the pipe is straight, and has enough clearance for you to wrap it. This stuff gets STICKY and pretty hard to manipulate, once you start wrapping the pipe. But, it’s worked well for me a few times. It’s a temp repair, and only lasts a few months, but I’ve used the wrap over and over again, and haven’t had a problem. Every time I wrap the pipe, it fixes the leak and I completely forget about it. Only to remember 3-4 months down the road when it starts leaking again. I just keep wrapping it like a dummy, instead of getting it repaired correctly. But this stuff has worked for me, even though I’m dumb. Be dumb like me. You’re welcome.

Fixes exhaust leaks, as long as the part if the pipe is straight, and has enough clearance for you to wrap it. This stuff gets STICKY and pretty hard to manipulate, once you start wrapping the pipe. But, it’s worked well for me a few times. It’s a temp repair, and only lasts a few months, but I’ve used the wrap over and over again, and haven’t had a problem. Every time I wrap the pipe, it fixes the leak and I completely forget about it. Only to remember 3-4 months down the road when it starts leaking again. I just keep wrapping it like a dummy, instead of getting it repaired correctly. But this stuff has worked for me, even though I’m dumb. Be dumb like me. You’re welcome.