So I'll start off with the positives, even though the package was fairly damaged when it arrived, all of the parts were present. The central parts of the machine were pre assembled, and well made. A couple of the neck bearings may be a pinch out of alignment, I'll know more once I actually get to using it. This is where the good news stops. There were no assembly instructions, only a parts list; as well as a parts list on the same paper for something that I didn't order :). I looked for a web site for the company, scrolled through the listing, no dice. With some time and patience I figured out the basic assembly of everything and got it "assembled" with the help of a couple of photos from the listing. I then laid out a template for drilling the holes for the platents, since the bracket holes weren't pre drilled. This saved an hour or so of repetitive layout (center it and then about two inches from the bottom, opposite the neck). Then I realized, a huge part of screen printing on a press like this is replication. This press is engineered so that the necks of the press are at a downward angle, soooooo... the platents need to be centered and inline with them for an easy pull (as to not warp the image or trash your screens). I would have figured that the brackets would have been in square...they're not. I would have figured that clamping them down to the arms would fix side to side dip (x/z)... it didn't. In order to to center it to the neck and get it fairly inline with the angle of the neck (y/z), as well as the dipping I figured out a work-around. While assembling I had the foresight to tighten the primary neck bracket evenly, this is the only true micro registration point on this press by the way (so while technically a micro-reg machine, it isn't really) , so I didn't need to worry about that. I did have to go through and bottom out all of the screen clamp brackets and turn the bracket rest up as high as it could go (being sure to tighten the counter knob on the underside of the arm, none of these were square either). I then cut some shims to about 5.5 degree at .5 inches on the wide side from some old 2x4 scrap (1.5x3.5, but who's counting). Placing these flush with the inner edge of the platent helped with both the x/z dip to a good degree and the need for the y/z angle change. Two birds, one shim. Now the centering so that replication is easier. I found the width of both the platent and the screen clamp bracket bottom edge, cut both of those in half and scribed lines on both with permanent marker (shouldn't bleed, could probably use a washable and erase when done but the center line will probably help with shirt alignment). I then underwent the joyous experience of lining these two lines up with each other. Mind you I used a template to set up the platent bracket so this should have been easy, some of these were almost a full .25" off center from a loose even tightening of the positioning screws in the beginning.Once all of this was done I had to check how the screens laid. This is the real joke of the micro registration of this unit. So I had a micro unit when I was younger, an old beat up Brown. I do not have the $5000+ dollars to buy a new one now. For that one you clamped your screen in and then micro registered everything. This one you do half after and some less than micro pretend registration before. Squarely place the screen into the bracket and place a .25" parallel or the like under the screen on top of the neck part of the platent. Lightly tighten the screen clamps to the point of just touching the frame of the screen. This will give you your offset so that the screen isn't just sitting directly on the clothing. There are two knobs on the back of the platent clamp bracket, I turned mine toward the screen 3/8" so that they touched it. There are four knobs on the face of the bracket (the slots go on the outer knobs by the way) I loosen the outer knobs and slide then drop the inner knobs down to the screen frame, spin them to the outside, tighten the main knobs, then the now outer knobs so that they are putting pressure on the frame to counter the back knobs and hold the screen at that angle. This will mar your frame if you go too tight. I then tighten down the top screen clamps all of the way and remove the parallel. Check the level of the screen to the platent, and ALL DONE! Wow, a few engineering changes and this could be a nice, affordable press, as it sits though I would only buy it if I had more time than money, which is me. It took me about a total of 12 hours over a few days to assemble, but a lot of that was scratching my head and figuring out work arounds.