The cabinet and sink were nice, the faucet was defective and i had to go buy a new one for $130.00

Very easy to put together and looks great and is really sturdy.

First of all, this is a great sink. The frame, sink, and hardware are perfect for a bar setting with an edge of sophistication! The directions are pretty straight forward regarding the cabinet install, but the plumbing can be tricky. There are literally no instructions regarding plumbing so I figured I'd give you some insight, as overall this is an amazing deal and with a little guidance, installation would not have been as difficult. Keep in mind that I am NOT a plumber. I don't like plumbing and I'd never claim to be good at it. However, I can research and I am persistent!1) I would suggest adding a bead of silicone caulk around the edge where the sink sits inside the cabinet. Easy to do and only about $10 at Lowes. Test the sink for fit, then pull it back out and put the caulk on before sitting the sink back in. Wipe off any excess with a damp towel.2) Don't install the overflow drain until the sink is in place and firmly seated. Once it's attached, you can't remove the sink. Also, you'll need to get behind the sink to do this, so don't put it against a wall just yet. There are multiple blue rubber "washers" in the package...use the rectangular one for this.3) The plumbing can be moved around to fit the needs of your location - I've included a picture of how mine looks. Remember those blue rubber washers? Slip one around the end of each piece that secures with a twisty piece. You'll see a little groove that these go in. It's fairly intuitive, but look at my picture and the pictures on the item description. Make sure everything is going together before tightening anything.4) Connecting the water lines can be tricky. That's because most sink water supplies (the line coming out of the wall) are 3/8" but the valve going into most sinks is 1/2". However, the lines coming out of this sink are 1/2" females...meaning they will not attach to your water supply if it is the smaller 3/8". To solve this, unscrew the supply line from your old sink, but do not unscrew it from the water supply valve at the wall. Go to Lowes and get a 1/2" to 1/2" (male on both sides) MIP (about $6, you'll need 2). Do not try to use a compression fitting...I listened to the guy at Lowes and tried this first....water leaked everywhere! Take the MIP connector and after applying plumbers tape to each side of the threads, tighten one to the inlet from this sink, and one to the 1/2" side of your old water supply line (other end is still attached at the wall). Tighten this and you should be good! The end result is my 3rd picture.5) Connecting the sink drain line to your home drain line can also be tricky. The drain line included simply has a tapered, flexible rubber end that doesn't have a way of attaching to any drain line I've ever seen. What I did was purchase a 1 1/2" (smooth female) to 1 1/4 (threaded male) PVC adapter and a #28 hose clamp. I cut the home drain line and glued the 1 1/2", then secured the rubber end of the sink drain line around the 1 1/2 threaded male end, using the hose clamp. Keep in mind that the included sink drain line has three different "ends." Simply cut the hose to get the best fit (you don't want loops where water will sit). My picture #4 shows the end result.Overall, I am very pleased with this purchase, and installation doesn't really have to be as difficult as it turned out to be. Hopefully these directions will save you a few trips to Lowes and some headaches!

I went with this style of ainn when remodeling our kitchen even though it is listed as a utility sink. We had to make changes to all the pipes to make fit correctly and and be a functional kitchen sink. Only main issue was the sink itself was a little warped from the shipping luckily we were able to straighten somewhat.