The quick disconnect was easy to install. It only took a few extra minutes to connect it to the battery. It worked great for my 2001 Toyota 4Runner.

Worked good for 2 days and then my car just wouldn’t start anymore. I disconnected the kill switch from my battery and it fired right up. The lights on the key were blinking when trying toTurn the battery on with the kill switch attached but nothing happened. I’m confused on if it was the battery in the remotes or the device itself, but it stopped working for me.

Put this on a 2010 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 liter that had a battery drain issue. Its working great so far. I used a self tapping screw to mount it right next to battery. Ground wire they supply seems kinda a light gauge but I used it and iv drove the truck enough to know there's no issues. Easy to install almost anyone could do it.

My sons Jeep has a slow drain somewhere, in his electrical system and if his battery is hooked up, and he doesn’t drive for a few days, it will drain his battery to the point where we have to jump it. It’s not a big deal. Jeeps have been known for having glitchy electrical that can do odd things, and it’s a pain to diagnose the problem. He doesn’t want to pay a bunch of money on it because it’s older, and his first car, so we just disconnected the battery cable after driving if we weren’t using it again for a while. My brother suggested I get a manual switch to make the process easier. While looking up the manual switch, I came across this one. This seemed like a much better option, as he will no longer have to pop the hood every time to connect/disconnect. Installation was easy. The instructions are a bit vague, but anyone with basic car knowledge will be ok. It comes with 2 remotes, so we just push the button to disconnect the battery, and when we go to drive, push the other button. We don’t have to mess with any wires, use tool, or pop the hood when we need to drive now, just push button and we are good to go. I gave a 4 because there was a copper piece that didn’t have any instructions for it, the red wire is a bit flimsy, and the device feels like it could have been made a little more durable. The price was right though.

Ive had a parasitic drain on my new edge mustang for the last 3-4 years that just recently has gotten worse, I originally wanted a killswitch that was manual and ran inside the car but I compared the different brands/types and ended up going with this one and so far its worked great! I got the flu and didnt go to work for a week and honestly expected to go out to my car being dead as a doornail like usual after sitting for so long but was shocked when I heard the remote turn it on and my gauge read 12 volts!Its been two weeks so far, if I have any updates on quality I will for sure be coming back to update! so far has exceeded my high expectations! Will be buying another one soon for my second gen dodge!

It took me 15 minutes to install and it worked like a charm. I highly recommend this product to cut off your battery when you’re away from home so you don’t come home to a dead battery.

Purchased this to disconnect the battery when my collector MGB is parked long term. The remote control works great, no more fear of a dead battery from parasitic drain. Highly recommended.

Excelente

I had a terrible drain on my battery and this item has completely stopped it . I would highly recommend it 👌

Muy fácil de instalar.Trabaja perfectamente bien.

Great remote relay kill switch.Easy and straight forward to fit for any novice.would highly recommend to anyone having battery drain problems as it has now solved my problem.Highly recommend.

So here are pictures of the manual with some details and diagrams of what I am talking about. Would be nice if that was in the product description.So if you are an engineer like me this 2 wire cut-off will work on the positive post instead of the negative post for use as a shut-off.In my truck, my negative post is almost impossible to connect to and also I run dual batteries using an auto-isolation circuit so this needed to be set on the positive side of my battery to prevent discharge through the positive cable as the ground is shared between both batteries and the auto-switch is on the positive side and would require a major rewire job.So before you connect anything under the hood this is what you need to do with 86 and 85 the POWER POINTS for the electronics. The connectors for the batter on the outermost of the relay are NOT polarity sensitive so do not care if it is positive or negative or what direction the power is flowing.YOU MUST CHANGE THIS BEFORE YOU CONNECT ANYTHiNG TO USE THIS ON THE POSITIVE POSTWhat the manufacturer did is they tapped the negative 85 using a short wire to the negative post for the circuit side then using a longer wire run 86 to the positive battery post.Then the relay when switched on connects the out port to the negative battery cable for the body ground.As this is ACTUALLY a 2-wire cut-off relay and THOSE 2 wires on 85 and 86 are what MATTER as to how they connect to power, the manufacturer just uses a short cable to the BATTERY SIDE of the cut-off part of the relay and that is what makes it polarity sensitive for negative side use.BUTwhat you can actually do is connect the relay to the positive post and the output to feed to the rest of the vehicle. the CENTER posts are the ones that you CAN NOT misconnect.To use this on the positive side instead do the following.REVERSE the black and red wires on the center 2(two) connections (85- 86+) so that the negative side 85- is connected to the long red wire that connects to the negative battery post and the positive side 86+ becomes the black short wire that connects to the positive post of the battery.A relay is a Relay or a basic switch that is opened and closed by a magnetic coil being energized and in itself the contacts are not polarity sensitive.It is the electronic circuit on the CENTER post which IS POLARIZED!!!Doing the above or even eliminating the manufacturer cables and electing to use longer red and black cables to provide power to the 85 and 86 on the relay to the correct terminals will allow this to work on the positive side of the battery.Not all installations can use the negative side of the battery in my case I need to be able to cut off the positive side due to the DUAL battery system and shared negative connection.If this is reposted I will add photos of my configuration when the sun comes out as the Delivery was late at night and there was not a lot of light and I have been dealing with the power drain problem for some time and disconnecting and reconnecting my battery using a jump box. In my truck someone tried to jimmy the door locks so instead of replacing them I added power locks and an RFID pad to unlock the doors, there is no other way as there is not a working key lock, it has to be the RFID pad or using the power locks relay via the wireless door lock remote. Have to get access to the hood release which is INSIDE a LOCKED vehicle to then attach the jump pack. I have jump posts on the outside but too much cable causes too much resistance and it will not start with a dead battery and the jump pack with all that cable resistance even using 2 gauge cable is to much resistance for efficient starting. But the door locks will operate.