Great, cheap option. Works well, adjusts easy

The reviews and questions are full of far more actual firearm users than I expected. I bought this sight for airsoft. I wanted something cheap, relatively sturdy, and low investment in case it ever got hit by a bb (i don't like those ugly sight shields).I was expecting a 30 dollar sight, and that's exactly what it is. The build quality is surprisingly high, the shell feels like real aluminum, there's no flex, all the switches are very nice feeling. They won't get moved unintentionally, which is good since this has a stepless brightness adjustment. I'm pretty sure the build quality is where most of their budget went. The reticles themselves are alright. As you get brighter they get far less sharp but the lowest setting is honestly bright enough to use on an outdoor field, as long as it's not like SUPER bright out. The lowest brightness setting is still visible when looking directly at a (relatively low power, it's on a strip light) led light. The biggest problem with the reticle on mine is at higher brightness, there's a faint unintentional ring of light a few mm's around the actual reticle. It is present at all brightnesses, but much more easily ignored at lower levels.The windage and elevation adjustments are nice. The clicks are satisfying but not overbearing. Nice fine adjustment.With no riser, this sight seems to full co-witness with standard M4 irons pretty nicely, but this kind of sight doesn't really benefit from co-witnessing. Plus without front irons your gun will be a little lighter, so take those things off.Parallax correction is alright. Again, it's a 30 dollar sight so keep your expectations at that level.The matte black finish on it is a little coarser than my actual gun, but not as much so as most cheap matte black accessories. It looks good.I was testing this by shooting at lemons hanging off a tree from about 50-60 feet away, and (subject to the grouping of my gun) I was reliably hitting them using this sight. From about 100 feet the story was the same. This sight performed wonderfully.If you're using this for airsoft, keep these in mind:If you're using a paintball style mask or any hard lower face protection, you'll need a riser. .95 works pretty good for me, but I'd even go a little higher if you have a crane style stock or any prominent cheekrest.This sight takes up at least 5 slots on your rail. I say at least because I'm using a 5 slot riser at the moment and it protrudes slightly past the back.The switch to change reticles is high enough to be accessible even when directly above your rail, and all controls are easy to use with gloves on.By the way, don't be an idiot with where you put this thing on your gun. I see so many people with sights way too far back, or way too far forward. If you're using this on an M4, look at the left side of your gun. There should be a little bulge (maybe with a small vertical line on it) right above your magwell. Position the body of the sight centered above that line. That makes the reticle a nice size in relation to objects within a wide spectrum of ranges. play around with it a little and see what works best for you, but generally sights should be right around there.Overall I'd say this is a great sight for airsoft use. With the very, very little recoil from an airsoft gun I really can't imagine this sight taking any damage from sustained normal usage. It also feels like it could get knocked around a bit without damage. It's cheap enough where you won't have to worry about it breaking anyways. I might pick up another one of these for my other guns, or just as a backup. Real well-made piece for the price.

Pinty produces excellent products and their customer service superb. I ordered their reflex sight because of its low cost, and because I like Pinty products. A friend was having difficulty focusing on the iron sights on his AR-15( removable A2 front sight and carry handle combination), so I decided to see if it would potentially help him.I was initially NOT impressed, since it seemed that the holographic sight DID NOT remain in the same position relative to the target when you moved your eye. Although the Pinty sight attaches nicely in front of the carry handle and does seem to lend itself to the "co witness" use that is all the rage these days, whenever I peered downrange and moved my head around the holograph just seemed to wander all over the place, relative to the fixed sights.Through experimentation I discovered the "secret": the carry handle rear sight has two apperatures; a larger one for closer distances, and a smaller one for longer range shots (beyond 300 yards). The reason for the smaller apperature - besides that it is higher than the larger one, to compensate for bullet drop over longer ranges, is to better constrain your line of sight.As it turns out, when using the larger apperature you can move your eye around quite a bit and still see the front sight, and that movement is what makes the holograph look like it has a mind of its own. Since the holograph is a lot brighter than the front sight post, the eye tends to focus on it and if at the same time you are trying to use the iron sight, it can become pretty confusing.The solution was simple; just use the smaller apperature when getting the reflex sight dialed in. With the smaller opening there is little possibility to move your eye enough to make a difference in the relative position of the holograph without losing sight of the front sight post, so everything looks as it should.As I mentioned, it sits nicely in front of the rear sight on an AR, and since it is the first thing your eye jumps to, you do get a targeting speed advantage, and lining the holograph up with the front sight post gives you maximum accuracy as well. And, when mounted this way you can simply use your iron sights with the Pinty turned off.Another friend showed me his $300 reflex sight. It's nice, but doesn't do anything the Pinty doesn't do. As a shooter who trained with the M16 in the '70s, I would NEVER let a glass and/or battery sight be my only sight, but I have to admit, Pinty's made a believer out of me.The only recommendation I would make to Pinty is add some click stops to the red/green brightness wheel to minimize the possibility of not turning it far enough from "off" to illuminate, and to allow for a consistent brightness level. Both the vertical and horizontal adjustments do feature clicks, and work very well.