After two weeks of suffering it took me less than two hours to pull 4 broken spark plugs on 2007 explorer 5.4l 3 valve triton.Worked like a charm.Stay away from cheap made tools, this is the only one that gets job done.

Missing the nylon washers? also plastic carry box had busted in post and tools were loose in bag managed to fix the tool box, still good value for money

lo único malo es la paqueteria que usan para distribuir, ya que me llego roto del estuche de plástico y las piezas con leves señales de golpes o compresión, y eso que son metales, por ello calificación para la paqueteria es cero y estuve a punto de regresarlos por eso, pero finalmente el aparato cumple bien su función y es lo que importa.

私は、仕事で、プラグ交換畤プラグを折てしまい たいへん取れなくて、悩まされましたこの工具を見つけて購入しました仕様したところ一発で、取れて、良かったです

Well worth twice the price! We had 6 out of 8 plugs break off and this remover took them all out with no problems. After a lot of reading and watching of a few videos on how to use the tool, I have the following recommendations and comments:-I sprayed carb cleaner in each spark plug hole and sprayed again a couple of times over the course of two days just covering the broken plug (they broke flush with the metal tip for the most part).-I used a long clamp tool (similar to a skinny needle nosed pliers) to remove the electrode that remained in a couple of the plugs (I think the electrode must be removed or it could put undue stress on the pusher unit). I had to chip away at the porcelain to get enough grip on the electrode.-Use a shop vac or similar with correct sized hose attached to vacuum all porcelain pieces every step of the way.-Use antiseize lube on the pusher part that screws into the plug hole.-When using the pusher part, I did screw it down to the bottom as recommended; however, if the plug was broken slightly above the metal tip, I did the push in two parts, vacuuming the porcelain part way through the push (too much material in the hole).-When using the extractor part, I greased and then put a drop of oil on the reverse thread cutter threads. I also only screwed it in until it seemed to get a bit harder turning than before (I think over tightening could again put undue stress on the tool, and using this method seemed to give more than enough grip for the extraction...in fact, the spark plug tip was generally hard to get off of the tool once removed).-I was also very careful to clean the cutter threads with carb cleaner and wipe them down before lubing for the next plug (the porcelain residue can dull the threads over time).-The plug end strap broke in each case but the metal seemed to stay on the plug (we had one plug out of the six that had a couple of small chunks of porcelain fall into the cylinder...I used the vacuum with an even smaller hose to get one of the chunks and from what I read, the remaining small piece will get blown out, or ground up and blown out the exhaust port)-The cutter threads show very little signs of wearing after six extractions (due to using a generous amount of grease and oil on the cutting threads)In summary, use a vacuum every step of the way to remove old porcelain, grease and lube the cutting threads, clean between each use, and don't over tighten. Personally, I would never again use the OEM type plug that is known to break in this way (there are a few plugs on the market now that are made from a single piece of metal instead of two or three pieces like the OEMs). If you have them in your Ford, take them out altogether, or unscrew them, clean and re-lube with antiseize every year...do not wait until 100000 km to take them out as recommended in the service manual. This removal tool saved me the cost of removing the heads (which usually means removing the engine)...I'm pleasantly surprised by it's design and effectiveness!

I don't usually review products on here, because I am to picky and generally consider my self a very tough, hard to please consumer. This product, however, deserves my time.2006 F150 5.4 Triton, 98954 miles, original plugs. It started to miss, then rough idle, then slight difficulty starting with change outdoor temp (getting colder). Then the truck just wouldn't start. I figured it was the plugs, Was shocked to find the plugs cost like $10 each...I started to remove the plugs using a deep well 9/16 socket on 1/2 drive. Engine was cold, cracked the plugs loose, filled each spark plug hole with PB Blaster (wish I would have used carb cleaner instead, better on carbon). A couple hours later I went to work. I removed two on the left bank, with two being difficult, so I let em soak. I removed two from the other side as well, letting two more difficult ones soak. I actually did something really stupid, I said out loud, "I don't know what the big deal is, these plugs aren't any trouble".Yep, you guessed it, the next four failed. Three came out ceramic in tact, leaving the metal shield behind, while one came out with electrode in tact, leaving the bottom of the ceramic and shield behind. I now decided to order the plugs and the Lisle tool. It was absolutely cheapest here.It arrived and I read the instructions. The pictures were the most helpful. The three shields came out first try, no problem, The thing works exactly as advertised and is a nice little engineering wonder, well thought out, yet simple...the same kind of though process was used to design this tool as I would have liked to have seen by the Ford engineers when the designed the 3V heads...anyway...The fourth plug with the ceramic behind was a little tougher. I used the "pusher" to push the remaining ceramic to the "strap" at the bottom of the plug. I then tried unsuccessfully 4x to pull it out. The carbon was just two strong. and the remaining ceramic in the shield just didn't leave me enough real-estate to sink the threads into. I was forced to push the ceramic down until it broke the strap and gained enough real-estate for the threads to really grab. This was accomplished by using a piece of rod longer than the included Pusher that makes contact with the ceramic. Once that was done, it grabbed and pulled the ceramic and shield right out.Dont forget to use a dab of grease on the threads to aid in cutting into the shield and to catch the small metal pieces that are created.Also, this is not a "bull in china shop" type job, take your time, use finess not muscle. Good luck. Great tool, Great Price, Quick delivery. Thanks Amazon.

I very rarely write product reviews, but I was so impressed with this tool that here I am, writing a review.I don't know who designed the spark plugs or the seating arrangement for the Triton 3v engine, but if I ever meet him I'll shake him warmly by the neck because it's a horrible piece of engineering. Despite being as careful as I possibly could, I was left with 3 out of 8 plugs broken and stuck in the engine with no clue about how to remove them without a very expensive trip to the garage.Luckily, a friend mentioned that there was a tool available that was specifically designed for this problem so a quick Google took me to Amazon and a selection of tools for this job. I picked the 'Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines' based on the number and quality of the reviews and sent in my order. I used the expedited shipping option, which was a no brainer as my truck was immobile while it sat with 3 broken plugs. Delivery was reasonably fast - I ordered on Sunday and the tool was at my door on Wednesday; no complaints there.On opening the package, I find that the tool is actually 2 tools, one for each step in the removal process and is housed in its own sturdy plastic box with instructions (both written and pictorial) which were easy to follow and a few spare nylon washers. Everything was well made and I was able to put it to work straight away.I was curious about how the tool would work until I was able to hold it and figure it out - it's pretty simple and very effective. The first tool is used to push the ceramic down through the plug to leave a gap between the ceramic and the top of the stuck sleeve. The second tool is screwed down into this gap, cutting a thread into the inside of the plug sleeve and gripping in firmly. Then it's just a matter of turning the nut that pulls on the threaded section, withdrawing it and the broken plug from the engine.I cannot overstate how easy this tool was to use and how effective it was in removing the broken plugs! From starting the process to standing with the extracted broken plug in my hand took around 10 minutes per plug. The ONLY thing I would mention with this item is that because there isn't a lot of room in an engine bay to turn a wrench you'll need to have a set of deep sockets available.A well made tool, very good price, quick delivery and it performed exactly as advertised without any fuss. I'm almost looking forward to the next plug change so I can use it again!