This bad boy came fast, looks cool and works perfectly. The strip counter light I used it for dims without a single flicker or issue. The terminals are large enough for multiple low voltage runs. Very pleased with it.

Had a couple of these. Can't handle half its rated power and no way can it operate in environments of up to 70 deg C.

I purchased this driver because I was installing a lot of LED strip lights. I needed a driver that could handle the load of all the LED’s.

Did work OK for 3 months, as advertised. warm/hot to the touch, but I think that's expected.Just stopped working even though I did not use it much ( 5 hours of 100W power approx ) ...can't recommend, although on paper it was the perfect match for me and one of the few dimmable, 100+W power supplies...

I added more leds and it exceeded my power supply’s rating. The lights would flash and then go out. This solved the problem. It’s about 100 feet of led strip lighting on boom and record shelves.

I had to replace a 120V AC to 12V DC Power Supply (Driver, Ballast), after 6-1/2 years for our undercabinet LED self-stick strip lights. There is no information on the strip lights, and so I searched online for wattage. AI (Google Search) came up with 1.3 W/ft., but this turns out to be wrong as the 25W Power Supply I bought before the one purchased here, would not fully light the lights (would light them at a dimmed level, but cut out above this). I then re-researched wattage, and found that at 300 Lumens per ft., wattage is 2.62 W/ft., so for my 13', 34.06 Watts is needed. I then purchased the Ledmo 60W Power Supply here, used this with the original Lutron 600P dimmer (incandescent, halogen, not-LED), and this works just fine. I will have to see how long this Power Supply lasts. Note that the old standard dimmer does not provide full dimming range, but the range meets our needs. An LED dimmer, or one of Lutron's expensive ELV dimmers might provide a wider range of dimming. Note that I wired the ground on the Power Supply as well. Note that on a wall plug, the "Line" "L" (live connection) is the smaller slot in the wall receptacle. Use a meter to confirm the conductors, and mark them. There are covers (orange) on both ends, and seemingly no way to remove them. The outermost recessed side flanges have multiple teeth on them that "ratchet' into the sides of the case into matching teeth. I forced the covers off, but one may want to push the smooth end of a metal nail file down on either side to disengage the teeth and smoothly remove the covers. One could also drill small holes on the sides in the middle of the flange area to then push in from both sides to disengage the teeth (the manufacturer should mold these holes in). Will need 3 hands.... Watch the wire alignment to the capture slots on the bottom front edges of the covers when snapping them into place.

easy to install , extremely well designed!!

Best part: works as advertised. Excellent refined dimming control of my LED stip lights. I have a different driver on another set of strip lights and receive flickering at lower dim levels. This driver doesn't have that issue.2nd best part: Easy install. easy terminals to connect your wiring too. No wire nuts needed. Keeps it clean and with those orange end caps, also covered from dust and debri on the connections. Should work for years to come.

Updated: Go figure less than a month after writing a review, I’d have to come back and change it. I had a customer try this on a setup that’s full compatible and both drivers they ordered had issues. Sad to say I’ll have to switch brands after spending hours dealing with that.Original: I’ve bought 4 of these now, one being over 4 years in constant use. They dim well, minimal noise and hold up to the test of time. So far, these are my favorite dimmable drivers.

Bought this for kitchen under-mount LED strips and works flawlessly. It is fairly big in size, so keep that in mind. The instructions were clear on how to remove the end protector caps, and this wasn't an issue. Will certainly stand the test of time. Excellent materials used.

I had an old 30W driver running some LED lamps but I wanted to add more lighting but it would exceed the capacity. I have the driver connected to an Eaton dimming smart switch. After reading the reviews I decided to buy this driver.When it arrived It was well packaged and came with a small "instruction manual". I wouldn't necessarily would call it an instruction manual because its mostly warnings and what the driver features are. If you need instructions on how to correctly wire this please for yours and everyone else safety, hire a professional. Pretty straight forward High voltage on one side, low voltage on the other (observe correct polarity). The only issue I had which seems consistent in the reviews is removing the covers to access the terminals and mounting holes. I installed mine indoors so I cannot comment on its weather resistance but looking at the design it would need protection if you mounted it outside. When the driver is powered there is a green LED that illuminates. I have 5 - 12V 7W LED MR16 lamps connected to the driver (35W total). The dimming is very smooth and effective through the entire range with no flickering or stepping. The dimmer I'm using is an Eaton RF9540-NAW ASPIRE Single-Pole Multi-Location Master Dimmer Light Switch.

I had a large heavy halogen 24 volt transformer that caused the replacement LED bulbs in my track lights to "sing". This stopped it, and increased the range of the fader. It's small, and easy to install even without any instructions other than the diagram on the top of the unit. If you can't figure it out from that, you probably shouldn't be installing it yourself!The only gripe I have is getting the end covers off. (orange parts) They have no release and you need to use a screwdriver to pry them up to get them off. The nice feature of them is they ratchet down on the wires to hold them in place once the install is complete. Also mount it before you wire it. Otherwise the wires cover the mounting holes.

I purchased this dimmable led driver when the transformer in the base of my halogen floor lamp failed and I couldn't find a replacement transformer small enough to fit in the base. Then once I decided to go with an external transformer, I decided to "future proof" my floor lamp by having a system that could eventually be upgraded to LED.For now I'm sticking with a halogen bulb, however I was hesitant to purchase this unit, as it does NOT explicitly say in the product description that it will drive a halogen bulb, although there is a picture showing a "Tungsten" fixture.My final configuration is Lutron Caseta plug in lamp dimmer to a 2 wire power cord wired to the LED Driver/transformer, then another power cord wired on the secondary side, then 35W GY6.35 halogen capsule bulb.NOTE: I had looked all over amazon.ca for a GY6.35 dimmable warm white 12V LED replacement, but could not find anything. If I find one in the future, I will simply swap out halogen for LED.With the halogen bulb, there is no flicker when dimmed and I am using a 35W halogen lamp with this 60W LED driver.Some tips1) Removing the orange plastic wire covers; there is no clear instruction on how to do this. Check out my marked up photograph. I used a standard cutlery knife (screw driver was too thick) and inserted it where the red arrow is on my photo.....first one side, insert and bend the knife sideways a bit to loosen the bond between the rides on the clamp and main body, then try to pull that whole side up. Do the same on the other side. Once you get the orange piece out you'll see there are a series of raised ribs that click,click,clikc ratchet the clamp down and keep it tight on your attached external wiring.2) The screw terminals that tighten down on your external wires; the bottom part of these terminals that tighten onto your wires, the size is quite small, so it's easy to think you get a good connection and you could be only compressing a few strands of wire. Make sure your stripped wire is nicely twisted and as you tighten the terminal, watch the wire being compressed to make sure it's in the middle of the compression screw.3) Although the line input has an indicator for a GROUND lug, my Lutron Caseta plug in wall dimmer does not have a ground lug (only neutral and line), to I only used a 2 wire extension plug with neutral and line. No problem doing it this way. Everything works.4) On the top of the LED driver, the specs are listed. Although the AMPS are listed, the maximum wattage is not listed. I added a "P-Touch" label on the top of the unit stating MAXIMUM 50W - for this 60W unit.***EDIT*** When used with a Lutron Caseta dimmer there is a slight high frequency buzz between 20% and 80% intensity (35W halogen) I don't think this would be noticeable at all if the LED driver was located in a cabinet. Unfortunately I have the unit on the floor next to a chair, so I can hear the buzzing. For now I may try a lower wattage bulb at 100% dimmer power