Lanzar 1 Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 3000 Watt, Monoblock, 2 Ohm, MOSFET, Nickel Plated RCA Input, Bass Boost Circuit, Electronic Crossover Network, Power Protection LEDs - HTG157

AWESOME!

This lanzar heritage HGT157 car amp is amazing. It pushes my 2 12” subwoofer like it’s nothing. My whole car shakes hard. Great amp for a great price. Made of great material, and nice design! Easy to install!! Overall a very satisfying customer.😁😁

3000 watt dichiarati, se arriva a 200 watt è già tanto, riscalda molto e rende poco, puntare verso altri marchi

I got the amp in hooked it up to 4 lanzar 8 inch subs and it sounds amazing amp doesn't overheat even after hours of use I am really impressed with it

I returned this order because the amp was overheating and going into protection mode very quickly.However, this is the 2nd of this amp that I have owned, the first one I have had for about 1.75 years.Originally, I installed this setup in a white Mitsubishi Outlander Sport SUV with 2 Lanzar MAXP124D 12" subwoofers in an Audio Enhancers KO212C ported box. This setup hit very hard, even to the point people thought I had 15" subwoofers instead. The speakers themselves only lasted about a year (and the ones I bought as replacements have since burned out a single voice coil on each within 6 months).For a month or two I had the setup moved to a white Toyota Corolla and I had no issues at all.A month or so ago I changed vehicles, now driving a black 2013 Toyota Camry. Neither amp is happy with the heat of being inside a black car in the middle of the summer, even the old amp will go into protection mode for a minute or so after 30 or 40 minutes of playing. As you can see in the picture I added, I even have the amp mounted mostly off the edge of the box, to try to allow it to ventilate better from below. It will even go into protection mode during nighttime driving after long periods of playing.This amp really needs ample ventilation (and a light colored vehicle helps as well), as it gets *very* hot. It is excellent for an SUV setup where there's all open space. But for something more confined there are likely better options for amps available out there.

DO NOT USE THIS SELLERI got a brand new amp out of the box that was completely junk now I can't even get a hold of them to make a return I repeat again DO NOT USE THIS SELLERI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BTW this was not an installation error!! I took the amp to have it installed professionally in the box they tested it before they went to install it and said the amp was dead!

Definitely not 1500w rms @ 2ohm but it does work. It's probably around the 500w rms mark. Stricter guidelines should be in place when products are promoted with such numbers and not allow these companies to deceive potential customers.Amp is Probably worth $50AUD at most.Lesson learnt, it looks too good to be true because it isn't.

Éste amplificador cumple para un sistema de sonido discreto, aunque dice tener 3000 wats de potencia máxima, se protege con subwofer 10's doble bobina y con 12's de bobina sencilla.Me gustaría aclarar que no todo es tan malo, el sonido es claro y se escucha muy definido, tampoco consume demasiada corriente cómo amplificadores antiguos.Recomendación; sólo para una configuración modesta y no exigente.

good amplifier, I dont regret buying it even when I had a doubht in the begining when I saw some bad reviews about it, but honestly its one of the best with low price. you need just one farad capacitor if you are going to buy it. mine is pushing hard 3 subs pioneer 10 inch with any problem.

I am currently giving this Amp an extensive test, so I will write an honest and hopefully accurate evaluation of the product in a few days, so far though it is working an behaving like a champ, before purchasing the amp I visited Lanzar home page and downloaded the manual, then looked at all the important details and parameters for its operation.For any potential buyers out there please understand that this is Mos-Fet technology (metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistor), which is older but tried and tested, Mos-Fet was used in all but a few valve power amp up until recently, they are designed to cope with a fair amount of operating heat and have great advantage in delivering REAL TRUE power, it is very difficult for a big company to make a 'bad Amp' using this technology. The unit is operating fine straight out of the box!Many people ignore the operating parameters given by the corporation and then complain when something goes wrong.I began as a Sound Engineer some long time ago, and am still a working DJ, I am going to tell all that is to be known about this Amp, the real deal! Before buying things on Amazon, I rely on the reviews both the good and the bad ones, and I believe in accuracy and clarity and truth. (however I've learned to weed out whining wimps, some people should not be allowed anywhere near good equipment, I've learnt this over the years through lending out disco equipment, usually comes back badly damaged with a bizarre & ridiculous story), the moaners are really saying the equipment was NOT 'idiot proof' enough. (And will never be!)I am playing various music as heavy as possible, as hard as I can, and will update shortly. (Hope it helps someone)......First Update.....After one week, I'm using two 4 Ohm subs, both with peak handling capabilities of around a 1000 watts, together that's 2000 watts peak.That means that the nominal or RMS power between them is around 500 watts (always roughly one quarter of the peak amount)I've wired them in series for a total of 8 Ohms Load to the amp, the amp has a peak of 3000 watts into a 2 Ohms load, so why don't I go for the peak power set-up? Because it would be a waste of time! In the 8 Ohms configuration the unit will deliver a comfortable 600-750 watts rms far more than my two speakers can ever handle, but more importantly it has plenty of head room in reserve (NO DISTORTION)! Why does that matter?The amp is rated to be 2 Ohms stable, and when the bass drops, (when the speakers are driven hard) the impedance rises and falls to much more than half of its rated value, and when impedance falls to zero it creates an open channel to the power source, in this case the battery, (that means a direct current from the battery through the amp (smoke and tears) which can in some cases, end up frying the speakers also), some power Amps are rated down to half an Ohm (.5) stable, that is a different matter! Those Amps can handle a 2 Ohm load and be driven hard all day. (In other words there is NO point starting with the speaker impedance matching the STABLE rating of the Amp, because any BASS will always cause the impedance to fall below that point, causing heat and damage, wasting money!!) If one takes a 10,000 watts Amp + 16 midrange 10 watts speakers rated 4 Ohms, wire them in parallel, the Amp will blow after a few seconds, its not the speakers, its not the Amp, its the incorrect wiring!The present set-up means that I can drive the two subs to the extreme limit, because the bass will cause the impedance to fall to 4 or 3 Ohms no lower, (that will correspond nicely to the peak 2000 watts ability of my two subs, because as the impedance is force to fall, the power from the Amp rises, all be it for fractions of a second) end result is a rich deep bass, which is brutal and hits like a sledgehammer, and I am playing heavy weight reggae, drum n' bass, and garage etc, I have run the amp all day long and it has not even warmed up, (I will give a demo to anyone who wants to get in touch, using your choice of music, and dare you to turn the bass more that half way! You will have a kidney massage, as this thing kicks like a mule). As a result it is better to get 100% out of 500 watts 2000 peak, than 20-30% from a higher setting with distortion and thermal runaway.I've temporally added two fans (Pictured) with a remote control switch under the drivers seat, in the event the amp 'was' to heat up, but so far it has been running very cold, next I will change the set-up, by adding another sub and wiring all into a 4 Ohm load, but this will also need a power cap which I am not using at present, (because I have a super heave duty deep cycle truck battery, which does the job nicely).The 4 Ohm set-up will double the power drawn from the Amp, and an extra sub will also double the sound pressure level, which in turn means I will be able to play higher level at a lower crossover point. (Will feel the bass more than hear the bass!)Will update at that point, but for now I contend that this a very, very good quality piece of kit.Final update, the Amp is still working fine, and delivering real and seriously heavy bass, clean and rich, I do use a (Subwoofer Bass Controller - Level and Frequency) with it, which I recommend, I have found that the fans are not necessary or needed, so all is still well after several months of audio fun!Last tip, This amp draws a huge amount of power, so use the heaviest power cable you can get hold of, I recommend getting a 800 to '1200 amp pro jump cable' and cut them for this job this saves money and is overkill, also make sure the alternator is up to the Job, have fun!

I replaced a 500w kenwood amp with this. I am powering 2 jl subs rated at 600 watts at a 2 ohm load. At 2 ohms this amp claims to put out 1500w rms. Honestly i think that is unrealistic. But it blows the kenwood amp out of the water. Crisp sound very clear and loud. At first it had nothing after i hooked it up. The gain knob if turned all the way down is turned off. So you have to play with the settings. Also you need a very solid ground i am using 4 gauge wire i had to sand down the connectors on the wires to make it fit but if you have a crappy ground you will get alot of heat. I have not torture tested it but so far for the money im really happy. Do not expect this to power something that is rated at 1500w but its a great amp for the money. I think this amp puts out 700-800 watts.

OK first of all let's look at the stats on this amp. It's a typical low end amp, over rated on power, just look at the actual parts of it to start with so you don't get disappointed in the first place. A normal 3k amp is going to cost you a minimum of $600-$1k... It's around $65 hmmm. OK now that that's outta the way it has a 40amp fuse. 40amps x 12.5 volts= 500 watts. Even at 14volts your looking at 560watts possible total output. Highly unlikely to even reach that or your going to be popping fuses all the time. So I have had this hooked up to a sealed 12" audiobahn 4ohm and ran in parallel with an 8" bazooka tube 4ohm and it rattled the rear view enough to be useless when it hit. Tune it right and it hits pretty good... not comp end but can definitely hear outta the car. Hope this helps those who research.

i bought this amp for the monoblock setup. the amp worked fine with until you start fine tuning the amp. I did not over heat but got hot. went out the next day no sound and the power/protect light was still green. uninstalled back to factory condition and rewired all leads hooked it back up with leads coming out 12.5 to 13.2 volts on volt meter. as soon as the remote wire was in it popped the fuse. uninstalled everything checked all inline fuses nicks in the power wire (none by the way) checked it all volts are still the same hooked it back up pop goes the fuse again. the reason im giving it three stars is that upon returning it through amazon they are sending me a new one with overnight shipping. fyi I don't have amazon prime. so when this one arrives on Monday ill test it and see if its worth the five stars. fyi I been installing car audio for over ten years and know what is and what isn't. lanzar is somewhat new to me so getting a lot of power out of a small size amp well we will see. im only trying this on a psi sub that's been rebuilt its a 15" weighs about 75pds and can handle way more than this amp can provide. but its not always the power it about how the power is being utilized from amp to subwoofer.