As the title says "Great tool for basic mixture measuring". I use this tool to confirm cars are in fuel control so my diagnosis doesn't go sideways.

great product would recommend it

Assez facile à utiliser. Je m'en suis servi pour regler la richesse de mes 4 carburateurs de moto.Le look lui est un peu archaique.Le vendeur lui est très serieux.j'ai eu un probleme avec le premier que j'ai recu, nous avons procedé a un echange. Depuis tout va bien.

1- I gave it 5 stars on "Thickness" because it didn't really matter how thick it is. I am not even sure what they mean by "Thickness" for this product.2- I gave it 5 stars on "Accuracy" because, as far as I can tell it is very accurate.3- I gave it 4 stars on "Easy to install" because of the work and welding required on the exhaust system that has to be done for the install. I had to mark where to install the "Bung", remove the exhaust system and bring it to a professional welder... ...I don't weld.4- I like the fact that it can be calibrated.5- I really like the fact that it has its own back-lighting because I am using it instead of having to install a Gauge type meter because there is not enough room to install another aftermarket Gauge. I have it Velcro to the floor rug in front of the Gearshift lever on the 'hump'.Because of the lack of availability of at least one of the important, can't do without rebuild parts for a Toyota OEM carburetor on this vehicle, I ended up using a California legal Weber carburetor kit.Ever since I installed the Weber, 9 or so years ago, it always ran to rich.Without the Innovate Motorsports (3837) LM-2 Air/Fuel Ratio meter there was really no way to be sure exactly what was going on with the Weber's jetting, idle mix and idle speed adjustments.After rebuilding the Weber carburetor, I used a fuel pressure gauge to make sure I had proper fuel pressure, a vacuum gauge, an accurate tuneup tachometer and the Innovate Motorsports (3837) LM-2 Air/Fuel Ratio Meter.I was surprised at how little of a turn on the idle mix screw makes such a difference to the Air/Fuel Ratio on the Weber 32/36 carburetor.Once I got the jet sizes figured out, I had to work back and forth between adjusting idle mix and idle speed along with the accurate tachometer and of course the Air/Fuel Ratio meter to get it dialed in just right.Without the Air/Fuel Ratio Meter, even with a vacuum gauge, accurate tachometer tool, and experienced ear, without the Air/Fuel Ratio meter, there is no way I could have been able to make such accurate adjustments on the aftermarket, California legal, Weber 32/36 that I use to Fine-Tune the carburetor on my 1978 Toyota Pickup.Update with additional information.I have read a couple of the more negative reviews and realized that I did forget to mention something very important. So, here it is:The cigarette lighter/12 V connector plug on the end of the power wire that comes in the kit does not always keep electrical contact in the auxiliary 12 V socket. I discovered 2 reasons why.1- the spring that pushes the (+) contact in the center is much too strong and forces the plug outward, which causes issue number 2.2- The (-) contacts are shaped in such a way that there is not enough friction, to keep good contact and allows the whole plug to go outward enough so that minimal vibrations cause the (+) in the center to lose electrical contact. The plug almost comes all the way out of the auxiliary 12 V cigarette lighter/12 V DC socket.The actual meter, as far as I can tell is very accurate and works dependably. However, that being said, if it gets disconnected from its power supply, (the faulty 12 V cigarette lighter/12 V DC power plug), it will of course malfunction and not work because it is like literally pulling the plug right in the middle of taking readings.After taking apart and inspecting the cigarette lighter/12 V connector plug, I realized that is what the major flaw in the kit is.My best guess is that the cigarette lighter/12 V connector plug is most likely why other people who gave it a 1 star and such a negative review have had such bad experience with it.Also, I should mention that the O2 sensor can get damaged when the meter's power is disconnected and the O2 sensor is still connected into the exhaust pipe, the O2 sensor can get permanently damaged and or the meter could lose calibration with a degraded, damaged, or broken O2 sensor and won't display accurately.Because of the particular way I am using the meter, I removed the flawed 12 V plug from the power cable and tossed it into the trash.For the 12 V input, I hardwired it with a dedicated isolation relay and used a 5 amp fuse on the (+) battery side of the relay at the relay. Also, another 20 amp fuse for the (+) # 12 wire near the battery so that the 12 V (+) comes directly from the battery (+) to the battery contact side of the isolation relay. I hardwired it so the isolation relay switches on only when the ignition switch is in the run position.With it hardwired permanently like that, it has worked flawlessly in my application.My conclusion:The 12 V cigarette lighter/12 V DC plug is the problem. The meter itself is a very well-built and accurate instrument.My advice to other people who want to purchase this is to not use the 12 V cigarette lighter/12 V DC plug that comes with the kit. Either cut it off and put one in, that has a fuse, that you know won't come disconnected like the one in the kit probably will. Or, just chop it off and rewire it directly... ... With a fuse, of course!

I use this in conjunction with my 4 gas analyzer on my motorcycle dyno. I plumbed it in line with the probeNo problems, works great.

LM-2 was delivered in the original case with all cables. Easy to use. Perfect for my cars. I can recommend it.

Great Product i use it for Tuneing Gas Engines

Buy this item with case or you going to have a lot of high dollar test equipment thrown in a box.So far works well. The manual will take some thought on adding sensor inputs. AFR changes fast. Had to space the sensor out. They supply a spacer to weld in with the correct spacing. Adding a map sensor took some thought. Used a buck voltage convertor for the 5 volt power. They had a forum on their website but stopped it. I think that would have been a good place for advice. They do give a support phone number. It take an SD card. Hard to find a standard card. Won't work with high density cards. I ended up buying the case and wire harness. Recording is worthless without rpm, vacuum or whatever data you would use on a carbureted engine.

If I could give this 10 stars, I would. I've worked on engines for almost 50 years, and still work on classic cars ( meaning carbureted) . I've used the "plug chop and read" method all this time with fair results. I now live at 7500' altitude and like to drive from here to the mountains and back in a day or two drive. Some cars stall out on drives to 10,000+ feet from fouled plugs.This device along with the accessory tailpipe tool taught me in one hour what I'd be guessing at all these years. ( I did have to put a 24" extension tube on the tail pipe accessory to prevent it from reading reversion of O2 into the tailpipe, easy enough with some red silicone hose)I just dropped from a 240 main jet to a 200 on a Harley 120R motor with a CV 51MM carb. Runs better than ever, no guess work.Set up was 20 minutes, everything I needed ( except the extension hose) was included. Trimmed from idle thru WOTI'm sure my carbed sports car friends will want to borrow it......right Mark?

This is by far the best tuning tool you could ever purchase. It is a must for getting the most performance from your setup! I was amazed at how bad some of the cars were running that I thought were tuned well.

I purchased this unit to use in my Drag Racing car to monitor the Air Fuel ratio during the race. I monitored the engine RPM (requires a cable not in this kit) and the A/F ratio and it works most of the time and works well. The software was simple but useful and I found no significant bugs. I also bought the heat sink for the sensor since in a race vehicle, the temperature can get too high for the sensor and shorten its life.That said, this is not something that is up to the job of replacing a dedicated data acquisition system for your race vehicle. They sell some adapters and breakout boxes, but this unit is not reliable enough in data storage. Playback on the unit is spotty even when the data was recorded on the SD and can be seen with the PC software.If you are looking for an A/F ratio meter with some recording capacity this will work nicely. If you are looking for a data recorder that you can count on every single run or expand to many channels, this is not what you want.