great. arrived installed one week no leaks

Installed on my 1974 Bronco project...Fit's well with some custom harnesses. But the size is about as big as you can get in between the grill and radiator. I would recommend.

I cannot say how I truly feel about this unit seeing it has only been installed for 2 weeks, but the mechanic that installed it stated it was a good model and brand. Stated it would do the job on my 1990 Chevy Silverado 5.7L engine with 4 speed trans. The internal cooler in the radiator ruptured and got water in the trans and flat ruined it. So I NEVER want that to happen again so I decided on and external one for my truck. I trust my mechanic and believe this will keep it cool and will NOT have another episode of water in the trans. Stated it was fairly easy to install and fit on the A/C cooler using the supplied hardware. Fits snug and so far so good. If you are looking for a external trans cooler I will recommend this one as my mechanic gave it a Thumbs Up..

It works out on the trails

I use this cooler on a 2005 Ford Taurus with the AX4N/4F50N transmission. Might be a bit overkill for a car but I'd rather have too much cooling than not enough since heat is an issue with these transmissions typically. At first I found out that I installed it backwards by mistake meaning that instead of the fluid flowing through the radiator then this cooler, the fluid flows through the cooler first then the radiator. I decided to leave it that way due to it not overheating anyway in the summer but was worried about it being too cold running in the winter. The temperatures with it set up that way top out at about 186 degrees F and minimum during the winter is around 130-140 degrees F. It also depends on if you're running the A/C compressor because that will turn the radiator fans on and cool the fluid as well since I have it mounted to the Radiator/Condenser on the lower right side of the vehicle. I noticed no difference with A/C performance with it partially obstructing the condenser and no leaks in three years so far.

Good quality product installed on a 2011 Acura MDX. I followed the video installation guide for the MDX provided by a well-known internet trailer company but they used another manufacturer's transmission cooler. I used the Hayden because I put a Hayden on my last car and had thousands of trouble-free miles with it -- plus, it was significantly cheaper and virtually identical.Here are some notes for anyone else looking to install the Hayden 678 on a 2nd generation MDX (probably also applies to Honda Pilot but not sure):-When I installed the provided hose on the cooler hose barbs, the first one slid on effortlessly but the second was a battle, even with silicone lubricant. I fought it for about 30 minutes and still couldn't get it to seat all the way down. I ended up cutting about 3" from the hose and then it slid on perfectly. I examined the interior of the cut section and it didn't have any flaws. I can't understand why I had such trouble.-As in the video I mentioned, you can do this installation without removing the front bumper/fascia by bolting the cooler it to the existing transmission oil cooler bracket, however, the flange on the Hayden cooler is not wide enough. You will need to fabricate some metal tabs to add width to the flange.-Also as in the video, I secured the right side using one of the provided plastic "zip tie" fasteners.-You have to remove the plastic skid plate/cover from just behind the bottom of the front bumper to access the transmission lines. I also had to jack the front of the car up and put it on jackstands to get some clearance to maneuver my arms.-There is a flat, roughly triangular metal bracket right below the transmission lines that is held in with three 17mm bolts. I removed the front two and loosened the back one and pivoted the bracket out of the way. Unless you have incredibly small hands and/or a lift, I don't see how you can do this job without moving that bracket but in the video he somehow does. There is also a small hose in the way that I disconnected 2 white clips from the car frame so I can move it around a bit.-I was concerned that there wouldn't be enough hose but there was about 9" more than you actually need for the MDX. Just be very sure where you cut so you don't come up short on one end. I used a pair of anvil pruning shears and they cut it beautifully.-On my 2011 (and in the video) the return line was the line that has a canister-style filter on it about 6" from the metal barb. Confirm though by running your engine, shifting through the gears, then shut the car off and feel the two hoses. The cooler hose is the one you will tie into.-Slipping off the hoses results in transmission fluid loss. I probably spilled about 1/8 quart doing this. If you have another person with you it might help but the area to work in is so tight I can't imagine it would help much. I slipped the new hose onto the newly exposed metal barb and then connected the old hose to the other length of new hose using the flared aluminum pipe Hayden provides and 2 hose clamps. Make sure you have the hose clamps on the hoses before you do the switch. You will need an extra hose clamp as well with this installation method.-When I turned on the car to check for leaks, everything was fine except I was getting a few very tiny bubbles at one of the connections on the flared aluminum pipe. I think the hoses on the Acura are about 1/16" wider than the 11/32" hose Hayden provides. I tightened the clamp down further and the bubbles disappeared.-Remember that you MUST replace not only the transmission fluid you spilled but also you must add a little bit more as there is now more capacity due to the new cooler and hoses. I added about 200 millilitres to start and will check after driving for 15 minutes and top up as necessary. Adding transmission fluid to the MDX is a minor hassle - you either need to have a funnel with a long flexible tube to fill via the dipstick or you need to open the fill port on the transmission which requires a long socket extension and some brute strength.I hope this helps someone!

Just enough cooler for my Acura MDX with the stock cooler bypassed. Made some aluminum brackets to keep the cooler off the AC condenser. aftermarket temp sensor peaks at 65C in Heavy FL traffic.If I had to do it again I would have went one size larger 679 just for a little extra insurance.Update: 7/11/2017No fan, 100 degree day in stop and go FL traffic temp sensor hit 82C not towing, flat terrain, and AC ON of course. that's 180F and within 10 degrees F of the fluid limits of most transmissions. Next vehicle I will definitely go larger or possibly add a fan to this cooler.Update2: 9/26/2017added a "9" Inch Electric Radiator Cooling Fan 12 Volt Adjustable Thermostat Control Kit" before towing on a 2500 mile round trip from FL through OH for a week and back through GA. First, a 9" fan is too large for this cooler. Suggest a 6-7". The thermostat kit was set to 60C/140F using my aftermarket digital temp sensor on the trans output line BEFORE the cooler. Towing a single axle open trailer with an UTV on it totaling 2000 lbs. Highway temps in 96F FL/GA trans fluid temp 67C/152 using D4 on the transmission. First big 10 mile hill on I77 in VA heading north 62F outside temp with trans temp of 87C/188F. Later in the same day; outside temp 80F, stuck behind a tractor trailer at 40 mph, up a steep 1 mile hill, 2 lane road I hit a max trans temp of 101C/213F. Most consider this to exceed the max temp of transmission fluid and require a full fluid change.Next year I will be reviewing the 679 version. This cooler is not quite up to the task for summer hilly towing even with a fan.update3: 7/10/2020: Lost the cheesy knob for temp control even though I glued it on. I had it set already where I was happy and still hear the aux fan turning on from time to time. the fan I use: American Volt 12V Electric Radiator Cooling Fan