Genuine Toyota 69110-35062 Parts 69110-35090 Rear Gate Latch

Time will tell how long this one will last vs the original that made it 18+ years, but I’m happy with how it’s working now. Install was easy and fit was solid. I chose this one because it was the middle ground between off-brand & OEM.

This part was quickly and easily installed. Good price point.

Perfect fit 2005. Works smooth. You may need to reset ECU using the fuse. Don't remove the string until it's working electronically, you may need it to open the door.

I bought this about 2 years ago and it works perfectly.

Very easy to install. Took about 20 minutes all told.It does not respond quite as quickly as the oem unit, but it works fine.

I didn't order a used actuator, but that is what we received. We went ahead and installed it, hopefully it will last longer that the aftermarket actuator we bought 3 months ago.

My 2007 4Runner had a latch that would not stay latched. I tried cleaning it out and lubricating it, but it had too much corrosion. I found I needed to replace the rear window sweep to keep water out. Then I bought this part. The part looked to be new and fit perfectly. But note 2 caveats. First, after installation, there was no response. I had to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for a few minutes, and then reconnect it. After that the latch started responding. Second, the string tied to the mechanism is key. After the latch was installed and I closed the door, the door would not open. I pulled the string and it unlatched the door. I cannot remember if that was before the battery trick or after. I kept the string on for a few more door tests before it was all working as it should; then I removed the string. The latch works great and I am very pleased not to have to deal with a non-latching door.

A bit pricy but it fits and works well. Took a bit of time for installation. Take note how your old one was before removal, and don't twist the wire connections

2004 toyota 4 runner limited. My old one was rusted and I couldn't close my trunk, toyota had 6 weeks back order.Great quality easy to install ( 15-20 min).Unplug battery, remove old part , Install new, connect battery , open end close car couple time. That all I did no problems at all. Work wery well and way quite that original part. Toyota quote me $540 CAD for part only....

Part arrived a couple of days past due , due to the postal strike. Part was very easy to install , ( hardest part was taking off the inside hatch cover you have to be carefull and maticulous not to break any of the pleets that hold the cover on. ) and worked 100 % , it was identical to the original part , i would recommend this product , took me about 45 min to install and was half the price of the cost the dealers gave me.

Product works and fits perfectly on my 2007 Toyota 4Runner. I was quoted $485 from two dealers, this was half of that.Relatively easy installation once you get things taken apart, basically just a matter of popping the plastic covers off, undoing a few screws, and replacing the old part with the new one. There is no electrical work, it just plugs right in.After i fixed it i closed the hatch and it wouldn't re-open. After a bit of panic i discovered online that you have to re-cycle the electronics. To do this i had to disconnect the battery, reconnect it after about a minute, and then 'normalize' the locks by pushing the power lock/unlock button a few times. Voila, it works perfect! Our old part was rusted out and toast.

Easy install and much cheaper than other places. If you own the 4th Gen then you either need one of these right now or you will soon. Best feeling ever having this thing fixed!

Worked perfectly. Very easy to replace and saved me $350 (dealer quoted me around $550 for parts and labor).FOR DO IT YOURSELF INSTRUCTIONS: you can do a Google search for: 4Runner Rear lift gate (tailgate) lock mechanism replacement repair DIY summary --- and then look for post #44 by amg_w211, or you can just read my copy/paste:TOOLS NEEDED10mm socket and ratchetWide flat head screwdriver (long--works pretty good) or a plastic trim removal kit (preferred method; see notes below)Thin, small flat head screwdriver [harness disconnecting]Optional: razor blade, duct tape (rear plastic repair)FIX SUMMARY (time needed: approximatley 45 minutes)1. Rolled up all of the windows (front driver's and rear lift gate were most important, and if you have a sunroof, close it).2. Open up the rear lift gate.3. IMPORTANT STEP: Disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. I had to also disconnect the grounding bolt as the fit to the negative terminal was a bit tight. This step is important for reintializing the car ECU at later step so it recoginizes the new lock. Record your favorite radio stations so you can reprogram them later. The battery must be disconnected for at least 10 minutes, and don't reconnect the battery until your new lock has been installed for it to be recognized properly.4. Pop off the black pastic cover on the lower edge of the rear lift gate door that covers the lock mechanism. Use a wide tape covered screwdriver (to avoid scratches to the paint), and pop out the middle of the cover at the outer edge, bottom edge that is most closest to the inside of the cabin (when the door is closed). Even better is to use a kit from Harbor Freight tools (Part #67021 )--I used the edge that has a wedged lip to do this.5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set5. Remove the three lower bolts on the lock that were revealed from step 4.6. Remove the small plastic cover that is over the rear door strap by popping the cover off from the upper edge. Use this image as guide for the next few steps:Removing tailgate interior panel7. Remove the bolt that holds the rear door strap (a 10mm socket).8. Pop off the large main rear liftgate plastic panel cover by pulling up on the panel (held by 10 clips). Use one of the flat trim removal tools (or covered screwdriver) to help you get started. Start at the lower middle of the panel (by the lock mechanism) and work in a flat trim removal tool (or screwdriver) and pop up the panel. Work your way along the trim to get the panel clips up sequentially. No need to remove the whole rear cover or panel weatherstripping near the top, just pop the clips out and let the panel hang so you get enough clearance. See diagram post in 6 for a guide.9. Disconnect the rear lift gate lock wiring harness. Once the plastic rear trim (step 8) is lifted off enough for clearance, you'll see the wiring harness for the lock on the driver's side of the lift gate frame. One side of the harness has a locking tab--push a small, thin, flathead screw driver in there to push the tab in while you slide out the wiring harness to the door lock.10. Remove the lower part of plastic cover sheet from the metal frame. Carefully pull the plastic cover off (mostly on the the lower edge), while separately the pliable rubberized weatherstrip cement with either a thin, blunt screwdriver (or if you're really careful, a blade). Don't cut the plastic cover, just separate it from the frame by cutting/splitting the weatherstrip. You'll be retacking this back on so be careful with the plastic sheet (you can always use duct tape for repairs, but try to miniize the damage. You only need to remove enough weatherstrip so you can get access to the door lock and to slide it out to remove it.11. Remove the cable clip. On the white door lock plastic enclosure, you'll see a floating black covered cable that's held by a plastic clip (has 2 pressure side tabs), and that clip goes into the door lock enclosure. Use needle nose pliers (or a flat head screwdriver) to push in the side tabs of the clip so it releases and you can remove the plastic clip from the white plastic lock enclosure.12. Remove the rear lift gate frame bolt that goes to the back of the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism and enclosure is now free.13. Remove the door lock mechanism. You'll need to loosen the wiring harness rubber grommet to the door frame before you can remove the lock, and slide it under the plastic sheet.14. Install the new door lock. Remove the string on the new door lock before the install (or leave it hanging as it's a relase for the lock, so you can test it before actually closing and locking the door--but there is no real need to leave the string). For reinstall, follow steps backward from 13 to 4.15. IMPORTANT STEP: Reinitialize the rear door lock computer. Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Turn key to "ON" position, but do not start car. Then follow the next set of sequences:a. The driver's side window "AUTO" switch will be flashing (i.e. "not initialized"). Roll down the driver's side window all the way down. Hold the up button to roll up the driver's side window until it closes--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes, the "AUTO" light will illuminate steadily.b. [Only if you have a sunroof]. Open up the sunrooff all the way. Close the sunroof all the way by holding the close button--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes.c. Lower the rear liftgate window all the way. Raise the rear liftgate window all the way up by holding the close button--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes.d. Start the car and leave it on.Auto window roll down feature stopped working16. Test the new rear lift gate. With the car still on, go to the back tailgate and open it--it should work like a charm.17. Reprogram your radio stations if you haven't done so (tune in the station you want, then push and hold which memory preset button you for a few seconds, and it will keep the station in memory). Enjoy!Notes: For reinitializing and recognizing the newly installed rear lift gate lock, some people have been able to just disconnect the main power wiring harness to their rear lift gate ECU for 10 minutes and reconnecting it after connecting in the new rear lift gate lock, and they were able to avoid step 3 and 15 (battery disconnect, reconnect method). I initially replaced my lock without doing steps 3 and 15 and my new lock didn't work. I had to reinitialize the ECU before it would work. You must reinitialize the ECU whether how I outlined it (battery disconnect method) or disconnecting the rear lift gate ECU power harness. I would imagine that disconnecting the fuse(s) to the rear ECU could work as well (but the fuse block is somewhat non-descript and I am not sure which ones to disconnect).