Easy to use. Looks well made.

Bolt-in replacement for the old pump. I expect to get at least 10 years out of it, keeping my tractor plugging away.

We have used ours quite a while and it continues to pump very well!

The first one of the FR112 pumps I bought was sent back and replaced with a new one because it would get extremely hard to turn after sitting for a few days. The replacement worked well the first time I used it, but the second time using it was hard to turn the handle to get it to pump, the third time I used it, the handle was next to impossible to turn, like the pump insides were rusted up or something?? I finally got it to work somewhat by blasting WD40 down into the mechanism through the vent plug at the top of the pump body, still hard to turn, but I did get it to pump by using two hands and working hard. Something is not right with this pump. I have contacted the Manufacturer and will see what they say. I have used one of the Piston pumps for several years at my work and it was very dependable. I think I should have paid the extra $30 dollars or so and got the Piston version of this pump. Very disappointed to say the least.I will update this review: I have contacted the Manufacturer and they are very receptive and are working with me to get this taken care of, and their customer service seems to be very good. Update when it is resolved.I Emailed the Company, and I must say, while I was disappointed in the Rotary pump, this Company's Customer Service is GREAT! They sent me the piston pump version of this pump Model FR150 which was an upgrade, and it seems to work wonderfully. I would recommend buying from this Company anytime.

After the review below, I found the manufacturers info and called them regarding the issue. They are sending a piston pump to replace this one.... the rep stated that the viens on the rotary pump have been swelling up from gasoline after a short time..... I'm not sure how long this has been an issue with this pump, but Iwould assume that this is a recent and short term issue.... hopefully the piston version will work better.I installed it right away after delivery and used it a couple of times within a couple of weeks. It then sat for about 5 weeks without any use. Tried to use it today and It was extremely difficult to move the handle, so I removed the plug on the top and sprayed some silicone thinking that it may just need some lubrication. No help.... I was able to pump a couple of gallons but the pressure needed to turn the handle was enough to make the pump lean in the plastic barrel hole..... not the kind of effort you want to put into pumping a little gas.... I think I just wasted my money.

I have several 5 gallon gas 'cans', plus an elevated 5 gallon tank with siphon hose to fill tanks in the mowers, snowblower, pressure washer, rototiller, etc, plus a large portable generator with a fairly hefty raised gas tank, and multiple cars and trucks. I am not on a farm, and can't get away with the traditional outdoor raised fuel tanks, so I store reserve/emergency gas in a set of 5 gallon 'cans' in the garage. I found it slow and tedious to transfer fuel between the various cans, and up into the raised siphon tank, and later (when the fuel starts to get a bit old) transferring fuel from the large generator tank and the other tanks into my vehicles to 'burn it up' prior to refilling the various tanks with fresh fuel. I had been using a couple 'shaker siphon hoses', but those can only work when transferring to a lower container. I was most concerned about improving my ability to transfer to higher locations.Enter the Fill-Rite model FR112 Rotary Vane Hand Pump.This is a positive displacement pump that uses a set of three vanes inside the pump cavity to move liquids. It is 'powered' by a hand crank, and does not lend itself readily to motorized operation, although it would be possible to rig it up to be powered from an electric drill. It is made of painted cast aluminum, with the internal rotor being cast iron.I was pleased to find out that this pump is 100% made in the USA (Fort Wayne, Indiana, I believe).NOTE: Fill-Rite has several similarly numbered pump models. Some appear identical to the FR112, but are operated by a hand lever instead of a crank. Some others have the same pump body as the plain FR112, but either come with fewer accessories, or more accessories. The plain FR112 comes with:- pump body- telescoping metal suction pipe (20" to 34" long)- 8' long rubber discharge hose with metal nozzle/spout on the end- small roll of Teflon tapeNote that the included suction pipe has a hole on the side about 1/2" from the normal bottom opening. This allows the suction pipe to be extended all the way to the bottom of a tank.Some optional accessories include gallon or liter counters, alternate nozzles (e.g. for pumping into pails instead of tanks/cans).NOTE: The "Installation and Operation Manual" that comes with the FR112 is a two page affair if you disregard the pages in Spanish, French, and German (I bet the latter two really appreciate the NPT threaded fittings!) This manual is really just a set-up leaflet, and not a proper user's manual. For instance, it does not mention the vacuum breaker, or how to use the nozzle retainer, or that there are in fact two alternate discharge ports, or what the maximum suction height or discharge height is, and it does not mention which direction to turn the crank....this latter concern might seem to be trivial, but it is made more significant because more than one official Fill-Rite video on YouTube shows the incorrect rotational direction. So the manual is free of specifications and actual user information, but at least it includes basic out-of-the-box assembly instructions and an exploded view diagram with parts list.Some of the information in this review is based on three emails and one phone call I had with Fill-Rite support, since I did not find the desired information elsewhere. I found them to be very easy to reach by email and by phone, and in all cases I got prompt and knowledgeable replies.The pump is not recommended to use where it needs to draw up fluid more than 3' in height. The included telescopic suction pipe is slightly shorter than 3' when fully extended. This pump will have a problem with typical 50 gallon drums because of this, but it should work just fine with any of the various fuel tanks that fit into the beds of pickup trucks. The pump's suction fitting is 1" NPT.The included discharge hose is 8' long, and Fill-Rite told me that it can easily pump this far straight up, so the pump can be used to transfer fuel up into elevated tanks on taller farm equipment and such. Of course, crank effort will be higher when doing this. The pump's discharge fitting is 3/4" NPT. The material used on the discharge hose is a fairly 'limp' black rubber, so it is not overly stiff.The included nozzle/spout has minimal utility; it primarily improves the fluid discharge pattern over what would be obtained with an unterminated hose (it also is heavy enough to help prevent the hose from flopping around when fuel is being pumped). Its outer diameter is similar to a normal gasoline spout as found on typical gas station pumps. It will fit well into normal gasoline fuel tank filler ports, and well as any normal portable gas 'can'. The top of the pump has a receptacle to hold the nozzle/spout when not in use. The nozzle is inserted part way into the receptacle, then twisted to lock it in place; if the hose is installed on its other end such that there is an inappropriate amount of twist to the nozzle end, the nozzle/spout might not want to stay docked with the receptacle. When the nozzle/spout IS docked, the discharge hose forms a "U" shaped loop, preventing fuel from dribbling out the end.The pump's discharge is actually equipped with TWO 3/4" NPT fittings, one on the top and the other to one side of the pump, opposite the nozzle receptacle. The factory ships the pump with the top fitting having the vacuum breaker installed there, leaving the other fitting for the discharge hose. But Fill-Rite told me that you can swap the vacuum breaker with the discharge hose if that suits your installation layout better.The vacuum breaker is simply a plastic plug that threads into one of the two discharge fittings; the plug has a tiny vent hole that is blocked internally with a spring loaded plate. Normally, the spring, or internal pump pressure, holds the plate over the vent hole, so no fuel can exit there. But if the discharge hose is in a situation where an uncontrolled siphon action starts to take place, even with the pump not turning, the plate will move to uncover the vent, admitting air that will break the vacuum and stop the siphoning.The pump is mounted by a 2" NPT threaded neck; this fits most truck-bed and fuel drum 'bungs'.Between the pump neck and the body of the pump is a screen and a check valve assembly. Both the vacuum breaker and the check valve would seem to preclude reverse pump operation (i.e. pumping from the discharge side to the suction side). However, at least one official Fill-Rite video on YouTube mentions that this pump can operate in reverse by turning the crank in the opposite direction. When I tried to pump in reverse, it did not seem to work. UPDATE 9-3-19: I checked with Fill-Rite, and they told me that this pump CAN operate in reverse (the discharge end becomes the suction end, and vice versa); HOWEVER, for this to work you must partially disassemble the pump to remove the check valve, and you must also remove the vacuum breaker (anti-siphon) valve and replace it with a 3/4" NPT plug. The pump will NOT operate in reverse unless you do both of these things.As for which direction to turn the crank.....when looking at the pump from the side that has the crank, you turn it clockwise to pump normally.The pump is recommended for use with:- Gasoline (including ethanol blends to E15)- Diesel (including biodiesel to B20)- Heptane- Kerosene- Stoddard Solvents (mineral spirits and similar)- Light oils (including motor oil, hydraulic fluid, transmission fluid)The pump is NOT compatible with:- Water (well, it works with water, but should not be used due to rusting of the iron core, and the pump is not safe for drinking water)- Sulfuric acid- Naptha- Methanol- Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK)- Acetone- Ammonia- Benzene- Bleach- Chlorine- certainly many othersThe pump is rated for 10 gallons (38 liters) per 100 turns of the crank. Personally, I found it to be less efficient than those numbers suggest. Note that this 'specification' is not in the user's manual, but appeared on the outside of the box the pump came in.Notes and observations from actual use:- The pump is quite heavy (I did not weigh it), so you would have a hard time trying to use it in a hand-held application- Crank force is pretty low, and it pumps easily, although crank force increases when pumping to higher levels; however, there is still enough effort required that the pump really needs to be anchored to something stable- The wooden crank handle is not designed to turn on its axle; it is locked firmly in place, so you need to grip it loosely to allow it to slip in your hand when cranking; this is not really a big issue, but I see no reason why Fill-Rite could not have provided a typical plastic crank that spins on its axle, like practically every other crank operated device has these days. UPDATE 9-4-19: Fill-Rite advised me that my pump was missing a loose part, a lock nut, and since it was therefore not installed on the handle's bolt, the handle did not spin as it was designed to do. Apparently, the bolt is supposed to thread through the threaded hole in the crank arm, and then the lock nut is supposed to be installed as a jam nut, so the bolt is tight and yet does not pinch the wooden handle.- The 2" NPT threaded pump neck is likely to bee too loose rotationally, until that point where it suddenly does not want to turn any tighter; this is typical of any NPT threaded item. The problem is, in many installations it will be important what the pump's orientation is, and that magic point where it wants to stop turning is not too likely to match that desired orientation. If the pump body (and neck) was made from cast iron, you could just put a pipe wrench on it and force it to tighten some more until proper orientation is achieved. But with the aluminum construction, you will just tear up the soft metal if you try this solution. My own solution was to (with the pump installed in the tank bung to the tightest position that I could turn it to without using a wrench or pliers, yet still matching the desired orientation), I drilled through the shoulder/sleeve of the tank bung, and then slightly beyond that to leave a tiny dimple in the 2" NPT threads of the pump fitting; the hole was sized as #6 tap. Then I removed the pump and tapped the hole for 6-32, and then used a larger drill to enlarge the dimple in the pump's threads, such that the end of a 6-32 screw could extend into the dimple. Re-threading the pump into the tank bung to the original position, I installed the 6-32 screw such that it acted like a set-screw, locking the pump into the bung in the desired orientation.- My application does not normally favor the use of a straight suction pipe, and many tanks I need to pump from do not have 2" NPT bungs. So I built a kind of pump support stand (see three photos) out of scrap plywood, a 2x4, and some bits of hardware; I installed a 30" length of rubber hose (using a 3/4" hose barb adapter into the pump's 1" NPT suction fitting) which I can flex as required to reach into whatever tank I am pumping from. The pump stand rests in the floor adjacent to whatever I am pumping from, and the pump is offset to the side of the vertical 2x4 post of the stand, such that it can extend over the tank to be pumped from. A wooden pump support bracket is fitted with a 2" NPT floor flange to receive the pump's support fitting (set-screw added as described above). A simple thumb screw friction fitting made of wood allows sliding the pump support bracket up and down the 2x4 post to the desired height above the tank. The 2x4 post is attached to a plywood base, which serves to both support and stabilize the pump stand, and also allows me to place my foot on it while pumping. A short length of dowel on top of the 2x4 post makes for a comfortable hand grip to stabilize the stand even more while pumping. This arrangement works very well for me.- I find that a certain amount of fuel remains inside the pump body after pumping, even if I try reverse cranking at the end of the pumping. This means that when I have removed my pump support stand to its storage location, some fuel will drip out from the suction pipe/hose over time. I have taken to placing a small fuel-safe cup under the bottom end of the suction hose, so that the fuel does not potentially cause problems on the floor. If the pump is installed as recommended by Fill-Rite, this would not be a problem.- Fill-Rite told me that there is no reason why the pump cannot be used in a horizontal orientation, either with crank to the side or crank on top. I had asked because I had thoughts about installing the pump's 2" NPT end into a wall bracket that would work best in this orientation, and a suction hose would then extend into a nearby tank. I abandoned this approach because it would result in additional suction hose length that would exceed the 3' maximum recommendation.

used it one time and it stopped working

Works well, as advertised, no concerns