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Josh
Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2025
works as good as any other L298 Module I've picked up, I like that it comes with detachable terminals so you can remove it without wires holding it back if you need to swap it or assembly requires pre-wiring. Works great I'll have to see what other modules this seller has in stock.
Thomas Didymus
Reviewed in the United States on February 1, 2025
It took me quite awhile to get this to work, because there is no documentation except a couple of pictures on the product's Amazon page. The customer should not have to "Easter egg hunt" to figure out how to use an electronic circuit. We need to know things like - is the input active high or active low? (Answer - active low). Which side of the input rail controls which output? What are the input states? Answer - 11 = off, 01 = forward, 10 = reverse, and I'm guessing 00 = brake (I didn't test braking).Speaking of testing, I tested this with a 5 volt input. The floating voltage in the inputs when in Z state was around 4.6 volts, and that concerns me when connecting to a 3.3 volt device like a Raspberry Pi. Now in theory, these should be high-impedance inputs, and being active low means that a Raspberry Pi should be able to safely control this board, but without any documentation, I was unwilling to test my Pi at this time. I will need to measure the current on these inputs with a meter before I wire my Pi to this board. Thankfully the more rugged and 5V compatible Arduino (Atmega 128 in my case) has no problem with these inputs. I suspect the board uses optocouplers for isolation, but again, no documentation, so I would need reverse engineer it to know for sure.As for the construction, this device is very well made. Physically it's very solid, the traces are thick where needed for current capacity, and the solder joints are excellently welded, hence my high review of this board, despite the aforementioned complaints. And it does work, once you figure the thing out.Oh - one last observation. I was unsuccessful in running a motor from a 5 volt power supply. Apparently this device needs at least 6 volts on the motor input to work. When I used 12 volts to the motor, everything worked fine. This may be limiting for certain smaller battery-powered projects..
Interceptor
Reviewed in the United States on January 5, 2025
This is obviously not a L298N motor driver module, it is built with discrete components with the same input logic and functionality as the L298, but with superior specs. I haven't finished fully testing it yet, but this should be a great substitute for any design that uses a L298N that needs a higher current rating or just better performance. Search handsontec XY-160D for functional description and input logic tables.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on January 4, 2025
No observed issues as of yet.
S Miller
Reviewed in the United States on January 19, 2025
This motor controller worked for me, but it comes with zero documentation and I discovered the hard way that it doesn't seem to have shoot-through protection. While tinkering with it, I moved one of the jumpers for the control inputs incorrectly and instantly blew out a MOSFET. I don't think a true L298 would do that. Without any specs it's hard to say what it's *supposed* to do, but watch out because this thing won't protect you from a mistake.
Mike P
Reviewed in the United States on January 16, 2025
I got this set up to run with my RpI but it took a little work and effort to get it figured out. I won't deduct ratings stars as its almost certainly my being new to this. In short, you have to learn the basics of the control pins and supply it power. Not a huge deal but it takes some time to figure out if you're uninitiated like I am / was.Overall, it works as intended and has been powering rotation on my SDR set up for a little while now.
T. P.
Reviewed in the United States on January 14, 2025
I spent a lot of time thinking my software and wiring were not effective. I wanted to use this to provide PWM speed control to two dc motors which were compatible and control it all with a raspberry pi. I ended up rewiring more than once, swapped out PIs and rewrote different versions of the software and rolling back the Linux distro to an earlier one with less restrictive requirements to no avail.I also purchased a bench power supply and multimeter to control the power levels more precisely and test their effectiveness and removed the pi from the equation by jumping the pins per recommendations online and I had zero voltage. I also followed a youtube video with identical looking equipment and it wouldn't work.There's still a chance I'm clueless but I think this one was defective unfortunately. I did re-verify that the motors and power supply worked fine in the original configuration without pwm control at the end and it's all working as before.
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