Tim P.
Reviewed in the United States on August 5, 2024
2nd Edit: it broke another way too, this thing is absolute garbage. The gap between the metal tube and the nozzle wasn't set right so it kept clogging, eventually even coming out the threads on the top of the block. Absolute garbage.Edit: I fixed this, the problem was they overtightened the thermistor screw and crushed the insulation off the wire. I put a tiny piece of kapton tape around and between the wires and returned the screw just snug, not bottomed out. Issue was resolved. Ridiculous that I had to do that repair when ordering a brand new part, so I'm not changing my 1 star rating..I installed this and it worked fine for a few little prints, but now my Ender starts beeping and shuts off while preheating. Watching the temp it slowly climbs then all the sudden shoots way up to 274 degrees and the printer lets out a long steady beep and then reboots. Never had this problem before. Verified the voltage is correct (24v). Online forum posts seem to suggest this likely blew out the mosfet on my main board, too. You might be better off with a non-Creality replacement, surprisingly enough.
Ronna P
Reviewed in the United States on February 3, 2024
My prints were interrupted mid print with failure to feed the filament. I tried cleaning the nozzle but after all the trouble to dissemble and re-assemble it still got interrupted. This was so easy to hook up compared to cleaning the nozzle, and the difference was instant. I'd forgotten how clean the prints were when the Ender 3d was new. Now it's like new again. Easily worth the price. Totally plug and play but does require you to detach the bottom control board housing. If you don't have a set of small metric hand drivers then I strongly recommend you get a set as it will make the change over much easier as compared to using right angle hex wrenches.
Ansel R.
Reviewed in the United States on October 4, 2024
I put this hotend on my ender 3 stock printer. The temperature sensor was broken on my last hotend, and in the process of trying to remove the temperature sensor, it broke inside of there. I got this, it looks awesome, works amazingly and I love the fact that it comes with capricorn tubing, and 4 0.4mm nozzles. I had some trouble fitting the fan housing over the new nozzle but otherwise perfect. This does not come with any screws or mounting hardware, so make sure not to lose it. It also comes with the silicone heat covers but I keep mine off to see the nozzle better. Overall, 5/5 because it fixed my printer and came with some other upgrades or replacements too.
daniel sparks
Reviewed in the United States on April 3, 2024
The media could not be loaded.
J. Adler
Reviewed in the United States on September 12, 2023
I've owned an Ender 3 V2 for about two years. After a few failed prints and a blobby melted filament disaster, I couldn't seem to get my Ender 3 to work well without sputtering and clogging, and it was shelved. I tried to resurrect it with fresh nozzles and a replacement heatbreak, but it never quite worked right after that.When I realized how inexpensive it was to replace the whole hot-end, I decided to go ahead and dive in.Replacing the hot-end itself on the printer was pretty easy, and only involved a few screws to remove the plastic shroud and access the old hot-end. However, wiring it up was a lot trickier.After cutting the factory cable ties, you have to flip the whole printer on its side and remove the cover plate on the bottom. Take a bunch of reference photos of this space so that it's easier to repackage everything later.The new wires need to be fished through two expanding mesh cable organizer sleeves, which tend to want to want to fray at the ends and snag on the wires. You're better off cutting the original wires at the old hot-end and taping them to the ends of the new wire bundle so you can use them to fish the new wires through.Then, you'll need to unscrew the terminal blocks to detach the old wires, and install the new ones, and remove the tiny plug for the thermostat and replace it with the new one. The blocks on the control board were covered with dabs of hot-glue to prevent the wires from coming loose, so you'll have to pick those off with a pair of needle-nose pliers before you can access them.I found that tightening down the terminal blocks on the new wire ends took a few tries, as they're a little hard to reach and it's difficult to see if each wire tip is in the little metal clamp as it's being tightened. Give it a light tug once the screw is snug. If it comes out, unscrew and start over.Once everything is secure, it's important to bundle up excess wire and tuck it back in neatly. Watch that the wires aren't pressing on the cooling fan inside the case, as mine was, or it'll buzz horribly and you'll have to open it back up again and rearrange. Also, as you're putting the new zip ties on the cable organizer, be sure to pay attention to whether or not they're snagging on the moving parts like the bed and gantry.So for the quality of product and the value, I think it's excellent, but I do rate the difficulty of the install pretty high as the wire routing is fussy and the wiring / controller board compartment is a little tight and difficult to pack neatly.
sebastian
Reviewed in Mexico on June 21, 2023
Tenga cuidado la garganta está mal puesta y no se quita fácilmente si lo instalas así como viene se va a taponear
Dante
Reviewed in Mexico on May 24, 2023
Funcionó perfectamente y no presentó problema alguno, hubiera sido bueno que incluyera un manual de instalación, pero, hay muchos tutorial es en YouTube, y es relativamente simple la instalación.
Cary
Reviewed in the United States on February 13, 2023
This was a replacement for a hotend on an Aquila [G32]. Installation was easy if you take your time. Make torpedo shaped painters tape ends to cables you're pushing through, and scrunch the cable sleeve as much as possible in front of the head of the cables as you push them through. Aquila hotend installation video on YouTube was useful. This kit is nice in that the Capricorn tube is already connected to a fully assembled hotend, and was already cut to the length of my previous bowden tube. This kit does not include a coupler to the extruder. I found, when trying to attach to my extruder, that my old coupler was worn and would not hold the Capricorn tube. I was lucky to have a spare provided by my printer. Cables took a while to balance afterward. Have extra zip ties.