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Your cart is empty.CRC dry moly lube is a dry film lubricant fortified with molybdenum disulfide that reduces friction and improves overall operating performance. Dry moly lube bonds instantly to metal surfaces to form a dirt repelling barrier that lubricates and protects the surface from pressure and friction. Withstands temperatures up to 650 degrees F and extreme pressures, as well as water and chemical attack. II. Applications Recommended as a general maintenance lubricant on gaskets, transfer belts and conveyor belts; as an assembly lube on motors, plant machinery and handling equipment; as a release agent for rubber moldings; and as a general lubricant for high temperature, low load, or high rpm slides, rollers, wheels, gears, chains and hoists.
Austin
Reviewed in the United States on February 14, 2025
Made my crappy 10w Diode laster capable of marking my pocket knives. Definitely recommend.
James
Reviewed in Canada on January 4, 2025
Works really good with laser engraver, I also have the laser marking spray that is designed for marking metal and I have had better compatibility and durability with this spray over the actual marking spray. This is half the price.
Dexter80
Reviewed in the United States on January 13, 2025
I have tested this engraving tool, and it performs well on stainless steel. If you're looking to practice or engrave items, using only stainless steel will yield the best results. Don’t settle for anything less for your engraving projects!
James Sarros
Reviewed in the United States on September 9, 2024
Coating rust prone metal areas that needs lubricant & doesn’t attract dust
mike trivett
Reviewed in the United States on August 8, 2024
Works like it should.
mark
Reviewed in the United States on January 12, 2024
First, I'm not a typically high rater. To get five stars, you have to do something to knock my socks off. 4 stars means GOOD.Second, my use is a little 'off label' for their typical applications.I have a blue-diode laser that doesn't do metals very well. There were some discussions on the forum I follow about using CerMark to improve metal engraving and some about using CRC dry moly. I chose to try the CRC dry moly since I don't plan on doing a lot of metal engraving and the CerMark is pretty expensive for 'testing.'The CRC dry moly was easy to apply. I did make sure I cleaned the metal before coating (alcohol and acetone) to get rid of anything that would mess up the coating. I did a couple thin coats. There were still some 'bubble' areas that weren't as smooth as I would have liked. For my test, it did seem to help a lot more than a marking pen or some other things I tried. I probably will need to dial my settings in a little more to get a better job.I did subsequently come across a discussion of molybdenum disulfide verses molybdenum oxide and problems with the disulfide version. You may want to review that before diving into the dry moly use. It doesn't suggest CRC dry moly is a bad product, just a forewarning in generalOverall, I would say the CDC dry moly is a GOOD product.
sIR sHOE
Reviewed in the United States on July 10, 2023
Works just about as well as molycoat but the coating has a green tint to it instead of just grey. Doesn't chalk off nearly as much but seems to stay put rather well. I use a lot of CRC products. Only time will tell how long it will stay in place. Does lubricate well.
Jeremy from Indy
Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2022
Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with.Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.Things we learned:1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.Other tips.Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.Picture notes:Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.
Razor
Reviewed in Canada on October 17, 2021
Product used for laser etching. Works great.
Trevor
Reviewed in Canada on July 13, 2019
Perfect and fast shipping
Mary-Anne Somerville
Reviewed in Canada on December 12, 2018
I did not receive CRC Dry Moly Lubricant, CAN was actually CRC Contact Cleaner CRC 03130 NOT CRC 03084 as expected.
exctyengr
Reviewed in the United States on August 5, 2013
This dry moly is a superb product! it was recommended to me by a highly experienced Caterpillar diesel mechanic to lubricate machinery in a very dusty environment. In my case it was the trunnions and bearings in my Delta Unisaw that are bathed in dust every time it is used. It has worked extremely well; better than graphite or any other product that you can get at the local NAPA/hardware store/ O'Reilly, etc. Does not attract dust. Basically it consists of a dry lubricant, Molybdenum diSulfide in an acetone or other volatile matrix. So it goes on fast, the acetone evaporates leaving the lube behind. Because the matrix is volatile it can't be used in a flammable environment like around a pilot light for example - drama will ensue. It can be messy. It sticks sort of like paint film to every surface that it comes in contact with like your hands or adjacent painted surfaces. So use it with care. But it works, it lasts and it is a darn good product.
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