Works as expected when winterizing our camper to blowout the water pipes.

Works A1

We normally use a plastic one but my husband found this one and it was a great value. It connected easily and was easy to use. It also looks better than the plastic. I recommend!

Good buy, easy to install and helps me to blowout the lines in the travel trailer for winter storage. A must have for us campers with an RV.

A must have to winterize your RV. Well made, hooks up to my dewalt pancake compressor. Kind regards.

Perfect for what I needed

Made of brass , worked as described gave it 4 stars might be better to add rubber ring to prevent leaking

par contre votre systeme de messagerie c'est ce qui existe de pire selon mon experience

Works as it should, was able to blow out our rv trailer's water pipes using the city connection. Got most of the water out but I also (afterwards) disconnected the water pump this year to make sure it won't collect any left over moist.

Had to winterize my dads camper this year, and this thing worked great. ran a hose from my compressor to the trailer (set your PSI to around 40-50, you you may damage your plumbing) and was able to blow all the water out of the faucets and water heater with no issue. great product to have on hand after every camping trip, just blast all whole system empty.

It's a brass fitting not much to say about it. It works just fine.

This brass fitting provides a leak-free connection between my air-hose quick connect fitting and the water inlet of my RV. Made of solid metal, this fitting is reasonably priced, provides adequate airflow to blow water from RV pipes and should last a lifetime. For most motorhomes these are the steps to protect the plumbing from freezing:1. Make sure that all water valves, the water pump, water heater and propane are turned off. If the water heater has an electric element, turn off the breaker to prevent accidentally turning it on. Empty the black water and gray water tanks, then fully open the drain valve on the fresh water tank and on the RV's water heater.2. Set the output pressure of your air compressor to 50 psi or install a or a between the air hose and the RV's water inlet. Then apply air pressure until all of the water is blown out of the water heater. Leave the heater's drain valve open and close the heater's outer cover.3. Shut off the air and operate the hot water heater's bypass valve(s), so that the water heater is bypassed. Antifreeze should NEVER be put into the hot water heater. If the check valve on the heater's hot water outlet is not working property it won't prevent antifreeze from being pumped into the hot water heater.4. Re-apply air pressure to the RV's water inlet. Starting with the highest faucet, which is usually the kitchen sink, open the hot water side and then the cold water side until all water has been blown out. Repeat with the bathroom lavatory or lavatories, the shower, toilet and water pump. This prevents water in the pipes from diluting the antifreeze.5. Shut off the air and find the water pump. There should be an inlet hose that can be extended to the bottom a gallon jug of pink (propylene glycol) antifreeze. Turn the valve at the pump's inlet and remove inlet hose cap, so the pump can draw antifreeze from the jug through the inlet hose. Then turn on the water pump.6. Once again starting with the highest faucet turn on the hot water, then the cold water until the liquid runs visibly pink then shut off the flow. Repeat at the bathroom lavatory, the shower and the toilet.7. For most motorhomes with a single bathroom and shower, 1 2/3 gallons of antifreeze should be sufficient to protect all water supply lines and the pump. The remaining antifreeze should be poured equally into in all of the sink traps, the shower trap and in the toilet to protect them from freezing.Some RV owners contend that just blowing out the water lines is enough to protect them from freezing. That may be sufficient in mild climates. However the leading RV manufacturers recommend that antifreeze be used to protect the water pump and those nooks and crannies where water may puddle in the plumbing even though it has been blown. This entire winterizing process should not require more than about a half-hour.

Assuming the RV is level and the water pump is off and has been either cleaned out of water, or RV antifreeze has been added already. Simply screw this blow-out into the outside "community water port" (the port has an internal pressure valve that should be relieved of its pressure by opening a faucet and pushing on the plastic valve behind the hose seal screen (like on the female end of a hose) and attach a compressor (max 25 lbs pressure) AFTER opening a sink faucet first.Turn on compressor AFTER opening a cold sink faucet, then open the hot side, close cold side, go to second sink, open cold, close hot on first sink, on second sink open hot and close cold (do all sinks blowing out water from each hot and cold line, not developing pressure - always keep a side open) turn on the inside shower cold side, turn off sink hot side, back to shower open hot, close cold, flush toilet and keep open until water is out and mainly air comes out, same if you have a wand then close them, leave shower on/open and go to the outside shower and open cold, go back to inside shower and close hot, then go back outside and turn hot on then cold off. The key is to keep air pressure flowing through one faucet all the time and to air-out each and every faucet or place where water may freeze, and not develope pressure in the lines that could blow a seal and cause a future leak. Turn off the compressor and be sure all faucets are closed. Add RV antifreeze to all P-traps and some into gray and black water tanks. Maybe a total of 4 gallons will be used, so have 5 handy.You can Google-search for free RV-winterizing instructions on the internet, buy a thorough RV winterizing book or e-book on Amazon, or check with your RV dealer. The internet and book has info on other things to winterize (batteries,hinges, etc., the RV place may have classes, and simplified devices such as a pump bypass kit, and RV Antifreeze, or check with K-Mart, Home Depot, Shopko, Target, Sears, Hardware stores, etc. Most any store, including Amazon, has RV Antifreeze in the fall which IS different from car antifreeze, ans a great selection of RV Parts; look for -50 degree formula, pink RV antifreeze.This air-hose blow-out and the tire-stem type work the same, I have one of each, just depends on the compressor line-end you use. Both types are highly recommend and I recommend Amazon ans Prime. DO NOT ADD RV ANTIFREEZE TO THE HEATER OR EMPTY FRESH WATER TANK (waste of liquid, money, time, and it's hard to dilute and flush out in the spring); just be sure they are drained as best you can, and closed. Best to buy a pump diverter kit as it makes the process simple and saves you a lot of antifreeze. Antifreeze should be in all P-traps, shower drain, and some in both septic tanks; let a little antifreeze drain through the septic gate-valves to protect them from pockets of water. Hope this helps. What you miss can mess up RV time next year.