Ya lo había comprado antes y repetí

Connecting a Kinesis Freestyle2 keyboard and a Logitech Unifying mouse with three laptops. Works flawlessly and quickly. I'm using the included USB-C/DC Power-Supply. The LEDs buttons work great with bright visibility. Compact, good-looks, well marked, remote(!), and cool-TEMP. USB3 connections to your PCs is a must. Get it, you won't regret it...

I like that this works even with my rgb gaming mouse and keyboard. I also like that it uses standard usb cables. I just wish all the cable connections were on one side to reduce cable clutter. Who wants cables coming out of both sides?! Thank goodness it comes with a remote so I can stash somewhere less obvious and reduce the desk clutter a bit.

I got a cheaper USB switch before this one that would constantly require me to physically unplug and replug my keyboard when switching PCs. This one doesn't do that at all. Instead it does have a couple issues where a new logitech M500s mouse I bought was not compatible (no cursor movement on Linux when plugged in through the switch). Another issue is ~3% of the time when I switch PCs my mouse doesn't connect properly so I have to toggle back and forth another time to get it to work. Way better than what my previous switch was doing though so I'll take it. It even came with velcro to keep the remote attached to my keyboard.

Here's the deal. I have windows 11 and windows 7.Windows 7 needed the power connected while it discovered my devices. Once the devices were discovered, it didn't need the power connected; however, my keyboard has a noticeable ~1 second delay when I stop typing then start typing again.It also really helped connecting to USB 3.0 not 3.1 interfaces (blue vs. red on my mobo).I have a razr usb mouse and a ps/2 keyboard w/ a ps/2 usb female mouse+keyboard adapter connected to my monitor's hub. There is a slight delay on the ps/2 keyboard, but that makes sense due to the way ps/2 keyboards operate.I have yet to try this w/ a usb keyboard. The mouse works fine. I did notice the remote isn't a real IR. I have velcro'd the remote to the side of my desk and when I switch usb profiles, it switches on the switch without the remote pointing at the device (or anywhere close; I can cover the "ir" and it will still switch to a different profile). My other remote controlled items (soundbar, video switch) use real IR and if the remote is not pointing at the device, nothing changes.CONCLUSION:It seems ok for my use case; however, delays in ps/2 and mouse w/ windows 7 seem annoying. I also had to power the device while win 7 was discovering my "devices" or it would fail to complete. Once it was completed, I could remove the power to the switch itself.The irony: I'm writing this on win11 and I get noticeable ps/2 delays when I stop typing. :(

I've had several USB switches, they all eventually died, and were mildly inconvenient as one had to stretch up to press a button. I ordered this one and it arrived the next day. This switch has a wireless remote which has worked flawlessly and is super convenient.It comes with 4x 1.2m USB 3.0 A to Micro-B cables, yes A to A or A to C would be better. It also comes with a decent USB-C based charger. The remote has an extra "pair" button which is annoyingly easy to press, but otherwise no complaints. There is a 1-2 second delay when switching, however as I have a keyboard with lighting, I get a visible confirmation from the keyboard that it has switched off and on. This switch has worked flawlessly, and though more expensive than models from other vendors (Kceve), seems to be worth the extra expense.

It was working fine for a month. However, when I unplugged my computer to change it's location, it started acting up. After hooking everything back up, my computer wouldn't recognize it at first. Then, I got it to recognize it, but my mouse was randomly moving around my screen or failing to respond. I hooked up the old one I had from a different brand and it worked fine, so the issue isn't my computer. I also tried hooking up the mouse and keyboard directly to my computer and that also worked fine. I tried a different cable and unplugged and replugging everything in, but it was still active weird.

Utilisé uniquement en clavier, souris et clé USB

I have four computers at my desk, two laptops, and two desktops, and two main displays (in addition to lap top displays). I wanted to able to switch between all four computers, and fully utilize both main displays with each computer, without paying 100s of dollars for a more modern KVM switch with full HDMI pass-through for TWO displays.If you are not aware, Displays can be used through USB 3.0. A USB 3.0 path straight to a USB to HDMI converter, will allow that PC to utilize the display. Furthermore, "DisplayLink" based USB to HDMI converters exist, and allow the conversion of one USB3.0 path to two displays. This was amazing when it first came out, and is still amazing to me today. You can run a display over USB 3.0. There are other chipsets (e.g. Magic Control Technology Corporation) but as far as I can tell only DisplayLink chipsets would work with all types of operating systems.So, why do you care. With a USB hub sitting in this little dongle, you can connect your keyboard, and pass through to your DisplayLink USB to HDMI dongle. Actually, you can connect any USB device to this little switch (I connect a full USB hub) and any device on the other side (hard drives, anything). With this bit of information, you can almost do a full KVM replacement.There are some obvious caveats here. I doubt you would get full display performance through a USB 3.0 connection to your machine. But for work purposes (documentation, writing code, browsing) this is more than sufficient. And for the kind of gaming I am interested in, not really a problem.In the picture attached you can see one USB cable coming out the front left going into the SIIG Hub (which supports two displays via a DisplayLink chipset. You can buy cheaper DisplayLink devices to avoid the expense of a hub). The other USB cable coming out goes to my hub, which has a wireless keyboard and mouse dongle, and any drives (I have a DVD drive) I want to control. Press the button 1-4 and seamlessly switch between computers. Out the back 4 micro usb connectors do a USB 3.0 connection to each of the computers (the port on the far-back right is the USB-C power supply for the switch).Setting up DisplayLink on a Linux machine is non-trivial, and with Ubuntu 18.04 I couldn't get it to work. With Ubuntu 20.04 the normal install programs worked ok, though I used a "debian" install script which configured things properly. DisplayLink absolutely works with Mac and Windows and is trivial to install, so I have two windows PCs, a Mac, and Linux machine, all going through this switch. With the remote or hitting a button, I switch between machines. Awesome.So what's missing. Well, there's no audio pass-through with this type of setup, something you might get with a KVM switch; you would have to work with audio over USB, which seems to be about $12. Display outputs may be limited, as well as display refresh rates. It is relatively easy to get most of the machines working with DisplayLink, but getting Ubuntu to work was very difficult.Overall, really happy with this, and was able to dump my old 1 display SIIG KVM switch.

En lo particular me faltó un puerto USB

Posso fare solo due appunti, si deve accendere lo switch prima di tutto e se volete collegare un dispositivo oltre gli 1,8 metri dei cavi allegati, dovete usare un cavo amplificato, per il resto, facilità d'installazione, manovra ed efficienza, è favoloso, ora posso collegare W XP, W 7 e W 10 ad una serie di HD e fare a meno di un NAS che mi era morto, lasciandomi con dei dischi pieni di roba importante e con serie difficoltà per recuperare i files. Imballaggio e tempo di consegna ottimi come solito Amazon.