Finalmente dopo tre resi questa scheda audio sembra funzionare correttamente.

Copie de Vinyle : Platine non amplifiée, n'oubliez pas de glisser le petit interrupteur vers PHONO! (Mode d'emploi en chinois et anglais!)

Great sound even at this low cost. I wasn't expecting much, just wanting to transfer some vinyl to CD that were not available on that format, and put the files on my hard drive to stream it on my system.. Oh my.. was I surprised. It sounds pretty good, even by audiophile standard. It's no Chord or Naim or name it, but it sounds pretty decent and allows you to save vinyls and other recordings that are no longer available to Flac or what ever format you want via Audacity. The software is not that easy, but the hardware is beyond any reproach at this price. Highly recommended at that price.

JAMAS IMAGINE TAN GRANDE CAMBIO

Gör det den ska! Helt ok för pengarna.

I am extremely pleased with this . It works exactly as it should and its price is very low for the quality and functionality it supplies.Now there are already 151 Amazon reviews prior to mine and most of them are thoughtful, well-written, and informative. As a matter of fact, it was reading most of those previous reviews which impelled me to buy this device. That said, I want to emphasize something for which many of the reviewers have unjustly, in my opinion, downgraded the product: any resemblance of what is claimed on the box or in the instruction manual that you WILL get, and what you actually DO get, is strictly coincidental.You will get NO discs (when you see the size of the outer box you will realize that a disc wouldn't even fit into it!), NO "included" software and, even though in the instruction manual it is claimed that there is a TOSLink output on the unit, there is NOT.So please just forget about any ancillaries promised. You're not going to get them.What you DO get is a superb instrument which allows you to create excellent digital recordings from any source you wish including records. And frankly, in my opinion, that's plenty!Thus, though the labeling on the box and the error(s) in the manual are completely inexcusable (and absolutely should be corrected), the product itself, again in my opinion, is all that matters and this one, at around $40.00, is, I believe, an amazing bargain.The manual states that the interface has a 16-bit converter and samples up to 48 kHz but, in fact, you can (and I did) make 24-bit (or 32-bit) 192 kHz (or even higher) files depending on the software you use.Now if you already own a USB turntable, and all you want to do is to create digital files from only your records (files which you can play on your computer or from which you can create CDs), you do not need this item. But if you don't own such a turntable, and wish to copy tapes as well as LPs, 45s, etc., then I believe that you will be quite satisfied with this device.Its phono section works ONLY with turntables using moving-magnet cartridges. If you have a turntable with a ceramic cartridge, you would use the line-level setting on the interface. (There is a small switch which changes the inputs to "phono" - with the appropriate RIAA curve setting - and "line" which handles everything else.) If your turntable has a moving-coil cartridge, you would need to insert a pre-preamp between the turntable and the interface.But in most cases, for recording records, all you need do is to plug the RCA outputs from your turntable into the requisite inputs on this unit and switch the unit to phono; you must also attach the ground cable to this interface. Then merely plug in the USB cable to your computer. The cable transmits the sound and also supplies power to the interface (you will see its green LED light up when you plug in the USB cable).The manual and the box state that the unit supports Windows-XP and Windows 2000 operating systems (as well as an older Mac system) but this is incomplete. This interface, having no drivers of its own, will work with ANY computer running ANY operating system as long as that computer is equipped with a USB port.Then use the software of your choice. As I use a GNU/Linux operating system on my computer, I use the Audacity software (which I like very much) but there are any number of other choices available. I believe that there are also many choices available for Windows and Mac computers as well. You may need to do a bit of searching (there are many available on Behringer's site but I believe that you can find more, and more satisfactory ones, just by doing an ordinary search on the Internet) and then you may need to practice with the software of your choice but I'm certain that the results will be as satisfactory to you as they are to me.Please note that I strongly recommend that you try "free" software (such as Audacity) first; in my experience, the free software is AT LEAST as good as most "pay" ones - and often even better. If you use free software, then the total cost to you is just the price of the unit itself (and any necessary cables you would have to buy if you do not already have them). But of course whether you use free software or software for which you must pay would be your own choice.This unit arrived just a couple of days ago; I have had time to copy only one LP. But the recording turned out perfectly. I had to make one or two "test" recordings to find out the proper settings in the Audacity software, but attaching and using the Behringer UFO202 itself was completely straightforward. Almost anyone could do it.My digital copy of my record sounds EXACTLY the same as the LP itself. Perhaps some "golden-eared" person MIGHT be able to distinguish between them but, if the test were effected in a double-blind fashion, I'll bet that he/she could not. I certainly can't hear any difference! Note that, as I mentioned above, I made a 24-bit 192 kHz FLAC file from my record.I own several other Behringer products: the , the , the , and the .Some people have "knocked" Behringer for poor customer service and I have no doubt about their unfortunate experiences. But I myself have had NO problems whatsoever with any of my Behringer products so I have never had the need to contact Behringer. If you buy their products from Amazon, as I did, and if you were to have a problem, you merely contact Amazon and they will effect an exchange or refund, as you wish (they will even arrange to pick up the product at your home if you desire) - all at no cost to you.But I have found that, with all of my Behringer products (and I own six pair of those headphones), their manufacturing and quality control are absolutely first-rate. So are their designs - and so are their prices!So, in conclusion, I should like to say that, if you wish to easily create digital files from your records and/or tapes, I strongly recommend that you consider this Behringer UFO202 Audio Interface. While you could plug the outputs from a tape deck directly into the microphone input on your computer, the resultant sound files will generally be inferior. And you cannot plug a turntable directly into a microphone input and expect anything good. So, for its low price, this device affords you the opportunity to make the music on your records and tapes available to you in digital format; playing these digital files exclusively ensures that your originals will not be damaged or worn further.Thank you for reading this and for considering my opinions.Lawrence H. Bulk

Yes, this thing is easy to use, but it's the software program Audacity that does need some instructions for the rest of us. (This process is not quick,it does take time and patience, lots of patience!)Here's my step-by-step on how I'm using this to digitize old cassettes (language, music, airchecks, etc) with my computer, with each track as a separate MP3 (you can choose to output to a WAV file or OGG VORBIS file). (As I type this I'm digitizing Soul To Soul, A 1971 Concert recorded in Ghana with Roberta Flack, Ike & Tina Turner etc. .). I've done about 60 hours worth of cassette content so far.- Download Audacity (google it), and the LAME MP3 codec (You can do this from within Audacity, it's a link that takes you to the SourceForge.com site) you'll need to export to MP3 (if that's the format you want to export out). You can export to WAV and OGG VORBIS natively with Audacity, but you'll want MP3 if you're not a sound geek and/or want to play your new files on multiple types of devices (iPods, Android, Creative, and Zune, etc.) and/or want to save space on your hard drive.- Hook up a cassette deck with the red & white audio composite outs into the LINE IN (Update 4/15/12) inputs on the UFO202 (or you could even use a handheld cassette player with an audio jack that has composite plugs on the other end). Plug the USB from the UFO202 into your computer.- You can hook up a pair of small speakers to the UFO202 to monitor the input, or just use your computer speakers to monitor. Go to Audacity > Preferences to select the speakers (if you need to).- Also under Audacity > Edit > Preferences > File SetUp Tab > MP3 Export Setup: select your BitRate for your MP3s. For spoken work, I use 160kbps or below in mono (since there isn't as much going as in music pieces, lower bit rates are fine). For music, 256kbps Stereo (depending on how bad the cassette recording is). 192kbps should be fine too. FYI, I import all my CDs at 320kbps). The lower the number, the smaller the MP3 file will be, but the quality will be lower too. These settings will stay even after you close the program, but remember to change them if you need them. Nothing like importing some language cassette at 120 kbps Mono, and forgetting to change the settings for the next five music cassettes that I wanted to import at 256 kbps Stereo. These are my preferred settings, others may disagree.- If you don't have a quad-core computer or newer, I'd stop everything else I was doing on my computer and just import my music only (close other applications, not surf the internet, etc.), just to ensure the computer can keep up with the importing/encoding.- Clean your tape heads on the cassette player if you can.- Now you're ready to record! Here's how I import music cassettes: Click on the red RECORD button in Audacity, and press PLAY on your cassette player. With a music cassette, you can stop after each song, save it, etc. but I found it's more time-consuming to stop after each song. It's easier to let one side record, flip, record side 2, THEN label, and EXPORT EACH TRACK SEPARATELY LATER (which I outline below). So you don't have to stop after each song. but that's my preference. Go do something else while Side One plays (turn up your speakers so you can hear when it ends). When it's done, press PAUSE in Audacity, fast forward the cassette to the end, flip it to SIDE Two, press PAUSE again to continue recording, and go do something else. You could stop it after Side One, and then create a New recording for Side Two, your preference. I haven't found a setting that let's you stop recording after a certain time, so you have to babysit and be there to press STOP when the cassette has ended, or it'll stop only when you run out of hard drive space.- File > Save Project AS > (create a folder for your recordings where you can find them later) > name your project > SAVE. You'll notice it's saved as a .aup file. That's Audacity's file. Now's the time to delete any dead air, long spaces between songs, etc. To delete a couple seconds, select an area (click and drag, it'll get a darker grey) click on the SCISSORS icon in the upper right corner, and that dead air is gone. Do this after each track if you desire, or between sides. It's tedious. Save your changes: File > Save.- LABEL TRACK(S): So now that your recording is edited and safely saved as an AUP file, now it's time to label each song. Go to Project > New Label. You'll notice a new box under your recorded file. After some trial and error, here's how I do it (but you can do it your way, but this is most efficient to me). Start at the beginning of the file, zoom in to find the very beginning of each track in the LABEL area and type in the name of that track. Zoom out to get to the end quickly, zoom in to edit any dead air between tracks, label the next track, then zoom out again to to get to the end, rinse and repeat. I find that it's easier to zoom out (Magnifying glass icon near the Scissors icon) to find the beginning/end of each track, then zoom in to at least 1/2 seconds, play to make sure I'm not cutting off the very beginning of a track, then label. Again, tedious. To change a file name, the only way is to click on the LABEL and backspace from the end of the label (there's no inserting, deleting one letter etc). Also, to DELETE A LABEL, backspace until you only have the white flag, then press ENTER. I've just saved you a couple hours of searching on how to do that. Save your changes: File > Save.- You could EDIT and LABEL at the same time, since you start the LABEL at the beginning of each track. Just be sure to start at the very beginning of your recording to edit, then LABEL as you go along thru each track. If you LABEL first, then EDIT, your LABELS do not move with the EDITS, so you may be cutting off the beginning of a song while exporting. So EDIT first, then LABEL. It takes me about 10 minutes to edit and label both sides of a music cassette.- EXPORT TO MP3: If you recorded each side all at once, here's the place where each track gets saved as its own file: File > Export Multiple. In the dialogue box that appears choose MP3, and the file to export to. Click OK. Another box comes up to fill in artist info. Click OK. Depending on number of files and speed of your computer, it may take about 20 minutes or so to completely export each track. If you've exported like I do (Side 1 and Side 2 as one big file, with each track labeled), as one big file, since you took the time to LABEL each track, each track will be exported as a separate MP3, already named. Again, I go do something else while this process is going on.- Spot check the each new MP3(s) file to make sure it's/they're how you want it/them. In Windows, listen in Windows Media Player (opens faster than iTunes, at least on my machine). Then import them into whatever you use to organize/play your music - iTunes, Windows Media Player, Media Monkey etc.- When you're satisfied with your MP3s, delete the data files found in the file you chose to save your recording in. Don't delete the MP3s, just everything else that's NOT an MP3 file (.au, .aup etc). Better yet, move the MP3s to another file, and then delete. These non-MP3 files take up a lot of room on your hard drive and you don't need them any more, unless you're going to export to WAV or OGG or want them forever). One cassette can take up almost 1Gb, depending on your bitrate.I think this is pretty thorough, and if I've missed any steps, I apologize. But this should get you started.That's it. And you're welcome.