El articulo superó mis expectativas, biene con el arnes de cables para ford f150 (no se si para los demas modelos) lo mas importante es que: al venir con el arnes ya no hubo que cortar ningun cale del autoestereo, la carcasa encaja perfectamente, los laterales vienen con diversas lenguentas para ser atornillados, es decir, tiene multiples modos para su instalación.lo recomiendo al 100.llegó en tiempo sin ningun problema

Good kit and clean fit to the dash. Little sanding needed on the top hole where the hazard switch goes in to prevent the hazard button and traction control button from sticking when pressed. Aside from that i would recommend this kit to anyone.

I have a 2014 STX f150 and the hazard light housing is just too tight, which caused the buttons to get stuck. I had to shave some area from the kit to make it fit not so snug. Quality is good and my dash does not look cheap.

Easy to install and fits in my F150 well!

It looks like my Sony Apple play double din came stock in the truck with this dash kit. Not bad on install and definitely worth the money!!!

Great fit and mach to interior

I swapped out a factory stereo for an F-150 and this was the perfect faceplate. I wasn't really able to find many options, but thankfully this one was there to pick!The faceplate fit well into the truck and the most difficult part of the installation was removing the metal clips from the original faceplate. My new double din head unit fit very well into this faceplate and there are no gaps (and I didn't need to use the extra spacer).

Easy replacement

Material quality, fit and finish all are very good and indistinguishable from the original in quality.A few things were not obvious nor well documented it at all.There are a few pieces that get reused from the stock - the documentation on removing those parts for reuse, is minimal (and that "praise" is generous). YouTube to the rescue.Getting the metal clips off the original and installed on the new one, was not easy and was not documented. Once figured out the process - and the right tool - it was simple to remove....... but not so simple to reinstall.The one glaring issue is the wiring harness. The very tiny (magnifying glass tiny) text color code instructions from the main connector, uses industry standard color codes to make adapting to the internal wiring harness, quite straightforward. But putting the color code table for 14 wires on a scrap of paper the size of 4 postage stamps is frugal to the extreme.The smaller connector is completely undocumented. The speaker RCA connector is obvious, but the remaining wires are not documented anyplace, creating a concern as to their purpose. And in all honesty, a web search does not provide much more information, so the fault may not be wholly theirs.In the provided space, I replaced the stock 12v accessory / cigarette lighter with a dual port USB connector that was an exact fit replacements and worked out quite well. The 2 nuts provided included one that was small enough to fit in the limited space on the panel back, so if you go this path, make sure the nut that fastens the (not included) USB panel connector, has a small diameter nut to have clearance to install.Overall an excellent quality product.

Faltaron cables

works as it should

First and foremost, this worked, in that it did what it was supposed to do. The price wasn't bad, and it had everything together, rather than having to piecemeal the harness, face, radio mounting hardware, and antenna adapter. The wiring harnesses and the radio mounting hardware were just fine. The faceplate, however, well, I should've spent a few bucks more and/or taken a bit more time to find a Metra or a Scosche kit, as I've *always* had good luck with those. As another has posted here in the comments, I had to trim the top hole (scraped the top and bottom to make it just a tiny bit "taller") for the hazard and traction control switches to fit properly, and even then, they didn't fit too well. The sides just didn't pinch and click in correctly; I had to wedge "stuff" on the sides of the switch to force the tabs out to make it stay. The bottom knock-out for the (no longer needed) Ford aux in didn't fit, either - it wasn't wide enough, and it was only after I broke the darn OEM part that I figured out the problem. There isn't enough surface to glue it, either, so I had to use a self-tap screw and two washers to hold it in (my OCD wouldn't allow for a gaping hole in the console). Fortunately, black electrical tape over the washers and bolt head "hide" it well enough from peripheral sight. Also know that, because Ford's engineers don't like us using aftermarket ANYTHING, you'll need to find power to connect to the RED wire in the Ford harness. I feel like Ford did it the dumbest way possible simply to make it easier for them. Maybe they figured that I'd go buy another $500 head unit from them rather than buying a $33 radio, $34 dash kit, and $7 fuse tap and installing it myself. Anyhow, I found power by running a 16-gauge stranded copper wire from the radio "hole to the passenger side footwell where Ford put the fuse box. You'll need to buy a fuse tap ($7 at Walmart, or Autozone - they have 'em on Amazon, too, but I didn't need a 10-pack.) You can easily run the wire by popping the glove box out (push in on both sides to drop it, but you don't need to take it off). NOW, Ford uses micro fuses, and the fuse tap is a "mini fuse," but that's OK - mini fuses will fit into micro fuse spaces, BUT you won't be able to put the inner fuse box cover back on after you're done unless you cut the cover, and it's just not worth it - the outer panel cover will still protect the fuse box. Tap onto fuse #38 - you'll need TWO 10 amp mini fuses - one for what you're doing, and 1 to replace what you removed when you pulled the micro fuse. (If you have a radio that needs more than 10 amps, then you'll need to find a fuse that matches the amperage of your head unit.) Fuse 38 is a START / RUN fuse. Run your fuse tap with the red wire running to the right (i.e. toward the seat) to properly install it. If you want to do research or meter the box out to find fuses that are powered in either RUN or ACC (accessory), go for it, but remember, your fuse tap has to FIT, and 38 did the trick nicely. If you don't use 38, you'll also need to meter the fuse spot to determine which side is hot - the side of the fuse tap opposite the wire should be the "hot" side. YouTube can tell you more. Obviously, you don't want to pick just any fuse in the box, as it may be "always on," and that'll drain your battery. Using #38, the radio WILL stay on when you shut the truck off for 10 minutes or until you open a door (whichever comes first).

I have a company 2011 F-150 XLT truck which the factory radio went out years ago. The clock would just flash or sometimes the display would go out all together and had no music. I had an old radio laying around and this kit was cheap and had just about everything I needed One thing to keep in mind is that in the wiring harness , the 12v switch power wire is not present on the factory harness. You will need to connect that to a switch power source. I bought a fuse tap from autozone and connected to fuse 37 and it works when the ignition is on. Otherwise it don’t look bad , the texture of the kit matches the rest of the trim pretty good and I now have music again for long trips