It's an ok value for what you get. It's not going to knock anyone's socks off but if you're doing a value build you could use this to help drive some sound.Installation is not unreasonable.I'd probably try something else next time.

It's an ok value for what you get. It's not going to knock anyone's socks off but if you're doing a value build you could use this to help drive some sound.Installation is not unreasonable.I'd probably try something else next time.

Like pretty much all amps this one has inflated claims about its power, they all play that game, but it works regardless and it has enough power to decently drive a small single 10 or a 12. There is a good range of adjustability on it, but for some reason they don't include a gain remote like most subs do (it has a port to plug one in). It's not super heavy and that is one somewhat reliable trick for sorting through the more inexpensive amps and speakers both: heavier is (usually) better, as long as they didn't just use an extra thick metal for the case. Quality of the connectors and such are good on this. It does not accept high level speaker inputs, only low level RCA so if you don't have RCA output on your radio you will need something called a Line Converter to go with this (they are not expensive though). Overall it's really not bad for what it is but it you won't use it to win any SPL contests.

Like pretty much all amps this one has inflated claims about its power, they all play that game, but it works regardless and it has enough power to decently drive a small single 10 or a 12. There is a good range of adjustability on it, but for some reason they don't include a gain remote like most subs do (it has a port to plug one in). It's not super heavy and that is one somewhat reliable trick for sorting through the more inexpensive amps and speakers both: heavier is (usually) better, as long as they didn't just use an extra thick metal for the case. Quality of the connectors and such are good on this. It does not accept high level speaker inputs, only low level RCA so if you don't have RCA output on your radio you will need something called a Line Converter to go with this (they are not expensive though). Overall it's really not bad for what it is but it you won't use it to win any SPL contests.

This amp works great but doesn't have level inputs or sub woffer control knob. So if you plan to use high level inputs you will need to buy a high level to low level converter. Not the greatest amp for sub woffer s I feel the power is WAY over rated. I had a scar audio 300 watt that would melt the magnet off the backca a Sub rated for 600 watt. I'm running a 200 watt sub and not coming close to overpowering it. Not bad for the price point.

This amp works great but doesn't have level inputs or sub woffer control knob. So if you plan to use high level inputs you will need to buy a high level to low level converter. Not the greatest amp for sub woffer s I feel the power is WAY over rated. I had a scar audio 300 watt that would melt the magnet off the backca a Sub rated for 600 watt. I'm running a 200 watt sub and not coming close to overpowering it. Not bad for the price point.

It's an okay Amp. You can tell it's foreign made by the materials used and its not as strong as it says. On the Amp it says 1000, on the box say 1200 and then the instruction booklet said some number that the company doesn't even carry..I have it hooked up to a 250W 4ohm single voice coil speaker and it won't push it. If someone has like a 1ohm or 2ohm speaker it would probably be okay. As of right now I wouldn't pay the 100 for another one if that says anything.

It's an okay Amp. You can tell it's foreign made by the materials used and its not as strong as it says. On the Amp it says 1000, on the box say 1200 and then the instruction booklet said some number that the company doesn't even carry..I have it hooked up to a 250W 4ohm single voice coil speaker and it won't push it. If someone has like a 1ohm or 2ohm speaker it would probably be okay. As of right now I wouldn't pay the 100 for another one if that says anything.

So, the first thing I did was take this apart to see how it looked on the inside.The first thing I noticed was an overall decent build quality of the amp. As someone who used to do electronics repair professionally, and who has worked in electronics manufacturing, I have a keen eye for the build quality of a circuit board. I didn't note any evidence of hand soldering / rework on the top side of the board. I didn't remove the circuit board as I would have had to un-screw the MOSFETS and then re-apply thermal interface material. While I did note some less than ideal quality in the windings on one of the toroid coils, it didn't seem extraordinarily bad.The one thing I did notice was the hodge podge of electrolytic capacitors present in this amp. It employs capacitors from CZLHY (whom I've NEVER heard of), ELUM, HZ (which may be a Nichicon, but I can't say that for certain), and JWCO.Only 2 of these brands has any halfway chance of being decent. The CZLHY could be made anywhere by anyone, and the JWCO caps don't have the best reputation by a long shot. In fact, ELUM is pretty much a mid-tier manufacturer as well.In short, I'm not impressed with the component choices. At all. If someone wanted to get the most out of this amp, and were up for a bit of work, I would strip it down and re-cap it with Nichicon Gold's or some nice Panasonics. It would probably be a decent amp with some decent capacitors soldered to it.I also noticed a complete lack of fuse protection. Word of advice - do NOT connect this to the battery without a fuse inline.One semi-positive note - from studying the circuit board I was able to determine that this amp does, indeed, have reverse current protection, but that reverse current protection amounts to a decent size Zener diode connecting the + input to the - input. So if you hook the power up correctly, no current will flow across the diode, but if you hook it up in reverse, current will flow through the diode from the negative to the positive (and immediately blow your fuse, if you're lucky enough to install one). If you don't have a fuse, the current will probably overheat and blow the reverse current protection diode, frying your amp. Once again, make sure you have a fuse somewhere.In all, I'm not that impressed. The build quality is good, but the component choice is poor, and a hodge podge mixture of capacitors (rather than them all being sourced from 1 manufacturer) usually indicates shopping around for the cheapest garbage. So we'll see if it lasts. For those so inclined, this would probably make a decent budget amp if you wanted to re-cap it with quality electrolytics. $10 or $20 worth of caps would make this a pretty decent amp I think.At the end of the day, it's a 1 ohm stable mono amp for $80. So admittedly that's not a bad deal. Just be prepared for some of those caps to not last forever.

So, the first thing I did was take this apart to see how it looked on the inside.The first thing I noticed was an overall decent build quality of the amp. As someone who used to do electronics repair professionally, and who has worked in electronics manufacturing, I have a keen eye for the build quality of a circuit board. I didn't note any evidence of hand soldering / rework on the top side of the board. I didn't remove the circuit board as I would have had to un-screw the MOSFETS and then re-apply thermal interface material. While I did note some less than ideal quality in the windings on one of the toroid coils, it didn't seem extraordinarily bad.The one thing I did notice was the hodge podge of electrolytic capacitors present in this amp. It employs capacitors from CZLHY (whom I've NEVER heard of), ELUM, HZ (which may be a Nichicon, but I can't say that for certain), and JWCO.Only 2 of these brands has any halfway chance of being decent. The CZLHY could be made anywhere by anyone, and the JWCO caps don't have the best reputation by a long shot. In fact, ELUM is pretty much a mid-tier manufacturer as well.In short, I'm not impressed with the component choices. At all. If someone wanted to get the most out of this amp, and were up for a bit of work, I would strip it down and re-cap it with Nichicon Gold's or some nice Panasonics. It would probably be a decent amp with some decent capacitors soldered to it.I also noticed a complete lack of fuse protection. Word of advice - do NOT connect this to the battery without a fuse inline.One semi-positive note - from studying the circuit board I was able to determine that this amp does, indeed, have reverse current protection, but that reverse current protection amounts to a decent size Zener diode connecting the + input to the - input. So if you hook the power up correctly, no current will flow across the diode, but if you hook it up in reverse, current will flow through the diode from the negative to the positive (and immediately blow your fuse, if you're lucky enough to install one). If you don't have a fuse, the current will probably overheat and blow the reverse current protection diode, frying your amp. Once again, make sure you have a fuse somewhere.In all, I'm not that impressed. The build quality is good, but the component choice is poor, and a hodge podge mixture of capacitors (rather than them all being sourced from 1 manufacturer) usually indicates shopping around for the cheapest garbage. So we'll see if it lasts. For those so inclined, this would probably make a decent budget amp if you wanted to re-cap it with quality electrolytics. $10 or $20 worth of caps would make this a pretty decent amp I think.At the end of the day, it's a 1 ohm stable mono amp for $80. So admittedly that's not a bad deal. Just be prepared for some of those caps to not last forever.

Bench testing this with a JL 10W6v2-D4 in a sealed enclosure, wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load and the amp performs adequately. I don't have a means of measuring output, but it pushes my JL reasonably well. The construction is a bit on the lighter side which doesn't give it the best feel. There is also what appears to be a RJ45 connector for a remote knob, but nothing was included with the amp beyond screws and a manual. And the knob TTZ Audio sells on their store page is a universal model without a RJ connector. So....what gives?What I really don't like is the misinformation provided on the sale page and in the manual to this amp. The manual and the sale page seem to match with the specs given (600W RMS @1Ohm), the box the amp arrived in and the fact that its model number is 500.1D seem to differ (500W RMS @1Ohm). The buyer shouldn't have to guess at what the correct ratings are as it can lead to either sub-par performance or worst case...catastrophic failure.As a 500W RMS amp, performance is ok, but there are better, more trustworthy values to be had elsewhere. As a 600W RMS amp, performance is adequate at best and there are still more trustworthy values to be had elsewhere.

Bench testing this with a JL 10W6v2-D4 in a sealed enclosure, wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load and the amp performs adequately. I don't have a means of measuring output, but it pushes my JL reasonably well. The construction is a bit on the lighter side which doesn't give it the best feel. There is also what appears to be a RJ45 connector for a remote knob, but nothing was included with the amp beyond screws and a manual. And the knob TTZ Audio sells on their store page is a universal model without a RJ connector. So....what gives?What I really don't like is the misinformation provided on the sale page and in the manual to this amp. The manual and the sale page seem to match with the specs given (600W RMS @1Ohm), the box the amp arrived in and the fact that its model number is 500.1D seem to differ (500W RMS @1Ohm). The buyer shouldn't have to guess at what the correct ratings are as it can lead to either sub-par performance or worst case...catastrophic failure.As a 500W RMS amp, performance is ok, but there are better, more trustworthy values to be had elsewhere. As a 600W RMS amp, performance is adequate at best and there are still more trustworthy values to be had elsewhere.

Got this for my boat . Old amp burned out during a trip, so being on a budget, this is what I went with.For the price you can't beat it. Its pushing a 12" kicker comp with ease.Wired at 2 ohms , its thumping pretty hard, and my wife says I need to turn down the bass, lol.Very pleased and would recommend for anyone needing an amp on a budget.

Got this for my boat . Old amp burned out during a trip, so being on a budget, this is what I went with.For the price you can't beat it. Its pushing a 12" kicker comp with ease.Wired at 2 ohms , its thumping pretty hard, and my wife says I need to turn down the bass, lol.Very pleased and would recommend for anyone needing an amp on a budget.