I already had the nails shot in the concrete with a .22 nail gun, but the inspector said the bolts were also needed- and I'm glad he did I was surprised how much the wall tightened up with these! They were easy to install after drilling the 5/8" hole in the concrete, through the wall base. Tap them in with a hammer and tighten them down with a deep socket on my drill- quick and painless. There is a guide line on the bolts to show minimum depth which includes the thickness of the 2x4 base. They don't tighten right if the line isn't reached. I had some Rebar stopping one of my depths, and the bolt ended up spinning in place. If used right, these are an awesome option for securing anything to concrete!

The idea behind a wedge anchor is that you shove something down a tight hole that expands at the bottom and holds the whole anchor in place. No adhesive or concrete is needed. If the material you drill into is crumbly, soft, or weak a wedge anchor is a poor choice since it will have nothing secure to bite into when it expands. Most wedge anchors I've used were not made of stainless steel and they worked fine. However, I had an installation close to a spa with external fountain that would routinely get wet. I didn't want the anchors to corrode away and make a problem in the future.The manufacturer's video shows the four step process for installation, in a panel at its end. Do not drill a hole bigger in diameter than needed because expansion at the bottom is not forgiving - you only get so much and then there is no grip to be had. I use an SDS hammerdrill and work carefully to drill straight and on-center so the hole doesn't widen as I go. The hole has to be deep enough to accept some of the threaded section of the anchor since the anchor will be lifted back out of the hole as the nut is tightened. The deep end will snag from having been tapped in with a hammer, and as the nut is turned the deep end of the anchor mushrooms out to make the secured physical connection. The rest of the anchor is not tight with the hole you just drilled, so water and dirt can get in. I like to partially fill the hole with silicone so it gets sealed from the top. The threaded part of the other end of the anchor will stick out past the nut. With threadlock compound on the threads of the nut I don't get concerned the nut will back off and I cut or grind the excess thread off for a cleaner installation. Of course, the nut and washer are on top of what is being anchored down, and the threaded end of the anchor is put through a mounting hole before the washer and nut go on.This is where you have to be careful. If the substrate, probably concrete, has rebar or metal mesh, or if what you are securing is other than stainless steel, where two dissimilar metals touch you will set up an electrolytic cell. Being in a wet area, that cell will be active for the life of the installation. (Not in a wet area? Then why did you use a stainless steel anchor?). Electrical current will be created and flow between the metals and across the moisture, electrolysis will occur, the stainless steel will survive, but the rebar or the equipment you are securing will corrode to a powder. In other situations it may be good enough to coat or paint where the dissimilar metals touch so no water can reach it and no current will be creatd and flow. However, in a wet area, especially on concrete or masonry, water will diffuse through the substrate and will always be present even if you paint or coat the physical connection. Don't mix metals. If you are securing a galvanized steel framework, get a carbon steel wedge anchor. If you're securing stainless steel equipment, use this stainless steel wedge anchor.Used in the right application and installed properly, this concrete anchor is very good. It is priced well, too.

I purchased these to mount some grinder stands in my shop. The 1/2” size is probably overkill for my application, but I’m very satisfied with the product. The anchors are precisely made with no burrs or other visible imperfections. The minimum depth markings are very consistent and easy to see. The nuts and washers are good quality and spin down the threading with no restriction or courseness. I went with stainless because the area of the shop they are used in can sometimes get wet from time to time. I would recommend these to anyone who needs to mount something heavy duty to concrete or similar surfaces.

I installed 4 of these concrete anchor bolts and all went fairly smoothly. They did fit in the hole a little tighter than some others I have used, but after tapping them into place, they tightened up with ease and seem to be very secure.1..Drill matching size hole, double check for correct depth.2. Blow dust out of hole.3. Gently tap the bolts into holes4. Tighten nuts and call it a dayIf you need a good, corrosion resistant anchor for indoor or outdoor use, I would recommend these.

A strong magnet will pull at these a tiny bit, but not pick them up, so it seems like they should be quite corrosion resistant. They come in a little plastic box that says they are 304 stainless. I drilled a test hole with a 3/8th inch bit, and the plug needed to be hammered in pretty hard to get it to fit. The threads do have a tapered end that seem designed to account for this, but I might try reaming out my hole a little next time. The test bolt would not come back out, so make sure you have drilled deep enough before you knock them in because you might not get a second chance without really fighting them back out.

A lot of time concrete anchors are under brackets, protected by decks, or minimally exposed to wetness on brick walls. However, when the anchors are at ground level and completely exposed to the elements, we need to consider something that will not only remain structural sound, but continue to look good over time, too (no tarnishing/fading).These were tested on a pergola structure that will have 4x4 base brackets with the tie-down bolt holes exposed, so stainless was immediately the right way to go. These went in just like standard steel ones, and look beautiful.A caveat, though: stainless-on-stainless hardware (the thread and nut) can actually seize together if you’re not careful, so I recommend putt a little anti-seize compound on the threads when you’re ready to tighten them down for good. Any excess will wipe off, but while building it ensures the nut can be loosened, just in case.

These worked perfectly and are the definition of heavy duty. They were able to be knocked in fairly easily. Just remember, you'll want to use a hammer drill/bit at the same diameter as the anchors. I'm using these to hold down some post anchors, and they work great. I had to cut off about a half inch of each with an angle grinder once I got them tightened so the post would sit flush, and this was quite a pain! These are tough!