This camera is a splendid step up from a DSLR. While it’s only one component of an overall rig, if you don’t take terrific photos, it won’t be this camera’s fault!

love this camera!!changed my astro path from fails to progress !

Very well packaged! Quick delivery

If you are considering switching from an un-cooled, stock DSLR like I did, this camera might be the one for you. After doing research on the other cameras of the series, the ASI183MC and the ASI294MC, I came to the conclusion that the ASI533MC was the best of the bunch. Here are some of my findings:1. Zero amp-glow. I tested the camera's amp glow by doing 10-15 minute dark frames and found nothing but hot pixels and normal noise you might find in dark frames. Nothing out of the ordinary. What this means is that no matter how long you expose for, there wont be any weird gradients except for the ones that YOU make. This could be light pollution from the city or the moon. But this can easily be fixed by 10-20 flat frames, dark flats frame, and dark frames.2. Cooling. When using my old Canon DSLR I didn't have the luxury of a fan, which would inevitably cause tons of thermal noise in my long exposures. The cooling on the ASI533MC Pro was one of the big things I looked for. On most of my shots I go for between -10 to -15 degrees Celsius below ambient temperature which helped a lot with noise. One of the cool things about cooling on the ASI533MC Pro is that you can take dark frames literally any time you want! Forget about taking up an hour of precious light when you can now take dark frames from the comfort of your home during a cloudy day.3. Framing and FOV. Changing from a large Field of View like the one on most DSLRs to a small one can be difficult, but easily managed. The picture I attached shows the FOV of the ASI533MC Pro, which is much smaller than what people are used to. Its also square! I find the square framing cool because it allows for clean mosaics of larger objects. Say for example: you wanted to get both the Lobster Claw Nebula and the Bubble Nebula Nebula in one frame, but couldn't because the FOV of the ASI533MC and those objects are pretty far apart (relatively). With the square frame you can fit both objects in 4 frames (a larger square) plus other reflection nebulae and dark nebulae. Mind you I used a 72mm refractor which automatically increases the FOV, as it is technically a widefield telescope. Take this into consideration when buying this camera!4. Gain, exposures, etc. While doing research on this camera and while using it I found that Unity Gain, or Gain 100 is the best gain setting on the camera. I set it to 101 just to make sure I don't enter the high read-noise zone. I have included a screenshot of the gain vs read noise vs dynamic range graphs on ZWO's official website for the ASI533MC Pro. By looking at each of the graphs you can see that the best gain setting is at 100. Because I don't exactly trust the camera with this number, I set my gain from 100-102 just to make sure I get the lowest read noise while also getting the best dynamic range. Basically what this means is that I'm trying to get the highest contrast in my image while also getting the lowest read-noise. For exposures I recommend doing at least 3 minutes subs. This is of course with an equatorial mount and an auto-guiding camera. Long exposures just aren't possible without these. The camera comes with a USB 3.0 cable to connect to your computer but no 12V power supply. I find this a little funny but whatever.5. Software recommendations. There are so many programs out there which are compatible with the ASI533MC pro. Ill talk about a few of the programs I use. For controlling my mount and the camera I use N.I.N.A (Nighttime Imaging N' Astronomy) and Stellarium. Both are free software. I connect them all together with EQMOD, which is an ASCOM program. ASCOM aims to connect all your equipment across all of your platforms, which makes it SO much easier to run sessions. This is again a free program and I highly recommend it. For autoguiding I use PHD2 (Push Here Dummy 2) which is a free, open source guiding software. I run a USB2.0 cable from my guide camera to the ASI533MC Pro and this usually works fine. In the newer versions of N.I.N.A there is a plugin called "Three Point Polar Alignment." I HIGHLY recommend using this for polar aligning your mount. When using it I set the exposure time to 6-10 seconds. The default is 10 seconds but I like to set it to something shorter to speed up my polar alignment process. If you are going to use this plugin you need a star database so that the program can plate-solve the image properly. There are several databases available to use on N.I.N.A, but I use ASTAP. You must go onto the ASTAP website and download the database and enter in the URL to the website and also the API Key which you get from downloading it. Without the database the plugin won't know where it's looking at!I hope this review wasn't too long, but I tried to include everything that I discovered while researching this camera and while using it. Hopefully some of the information I included was helpful to those that read this. Anyways, I really enjoy this camera and I hope you do to!

El producto llegó muy bien embalado, a tiempo excelente servicio, iniciaré los test respectivos.

There was nothing to dislike about this camera;Meshed with the Asiair perfectly,Image quality is sit on, andIt is extremely quite when in use.