Cool to the touch, beautiful finish and it just happens to match Rustoleum almond oil based enamel Which we used to paint our sunshade poles with. It is on the expensive side, but should some weird thing happen. It does not require grounding or bonding because it is a composite make up.

I was skeptical because it's basically plastic coating and we live in a very hot dry climate. I was afraid it would crack and/or discolor. It's been a year now and it still looks brand new. I don't know how easy it was to install as we hired someone. But it works great and we are happy with it.

Although this is a bit pricey, I am so happy I purchased it instead of a standard metal rail. It does not get hot, not even in the 110-degree days here in the summer, it is not slippery, not even when exiting the pool and your hands are wet and it is long enough to install on the deck around your pool and still be able to reach it from the first step when exiting the pool. It will not rust. I was quite surprised with the weight of it, it was heavier than I thought it would be implying the metal core is subbstantial. You have two choices for installation if you have concrete around your pool. You can either purchase Saftron anchors which would allow you to move it but the anchors would have to be bolted into your concrete or have someone drill holes and concrete it in if you want it to be permanent. The latter is what I did. Definitely would recommend this product if you are looking for a long-term solution.

First off, thank-you very much CJS for taking the time to write such a detailed instruction on how to install this railing. The idea to use a 2x6 template was brilliant as it was so much easier to correct my layout on a piece of wood instead of my pool deck. (If you zoom in to the attached photo, you can see the 2x6 with the corrected hole configuration.) It can also be used as a drill guide to keep the holes perpendicular. Someone also questioned in a review about the viability of the set screws threaded into the plastic brackets, so I oriented them so they will be easier to drill, if required at a later date. After one day of use, the railing seems very solid but that might loosen up over time. The railing does stay cool in the hot Florid sun and as there is no metal, it won't rust, as every other "stainless" railing review I read, complains about.

Just ended installing the product on my pool and it’s a solid product like it should be costing twice than regular stainless steel rail..installation was easy but I used zinc lag anchors instead of plastic supplied by manufacturer…big problem that Allen grub screw treads made directly in polymer without stainless steel sleeves that not holding well when you try to secure rail inside the base…obviously there is a solution to drill through the base and rail and secure with screw an nut, but with a price that about $600 for two bases and rail, this issue should not exist…trying calling manufacturer is pointless..no one pick up the phone and no receptionist to talk to…

Bought this pool railing because I didn't want to have to pay someone to bore holes in my pool deck to install the kind of railing that needs to be bonded/grounded. This is a simple install that does require drilling into the deck, which in my case is concrete, but it wasn't difficult. My only complaint is the anchors are not very strong so I purchased lead(?) anchors from Home Depot and will replace the existing plastic ones.The railing is well constructed and was exactly what we were looking for. It doesn't get hot on summer days and makes it very easy to get into and out of our pool.

A swimming pool handrail was something that we would have wanted with the purchase of our fiberglass pool, but we didn't realize it until after the pool was completed. Our pool deck is concrete and to add the typical metal entry rail now would be difficult and expensive because codes require a bonded ground. The Saftron handrail, being of composite material, completely negates this issue.We chose this particular Saftron handrail because it extends down over the three steps into the pool. This makes pool entry and exit easier for both children (using the lower rail) and adults (using the top rail). Our pool ladder railing, which was metal is impossible to grab onto during a hot sunny day. This gave us a second good reason not to resort to a metal pool entry railing.One has two choices for mounting. The first is to drill the concrete deck to the diameter of the rail and then install clamping fixtures to make a socket mount. The other choice is to surface mount using Saftron's mounting bases. The former method requires special core drilling equipment. The advantage, though, is that there would now be a mounting surface that is flush with the deck to facilitate winter cover use. Conversely, the mounting bases are a do-it-yourself install. However the bases would need to be removed every Fall and then reinstalled in the Spring for winter cover use.We decided to use mounting bases. The Saftron website provides detailed dimensional information on the various pool handrails, but hadn't provided specific hardware information relative to the mounting bases.Installation Hardware:Saftron's mounting bases are supplied with 5/16 stainless steel lag bolts (2 5/8 inches long), washers, and plastic anchors that can be used in concrete. This might be fine for a one-time permanent install. The hardware is not an adequate solution when removing and reinstalling the base mounts multiple times. There are several types of anchors available for concrete that permanently install a stud with a nut attachment. These also would be unsatisfactory since the stud is not removable and therefore does not make for a flush surface. The viable solution is to use bolts and drop-in anchors. Be aware that such anchors do require an inexpensive setting tool for installation.I ordered the anchor bolt hardware before I received the base mounts, and my guess was off since the hardware I ordered was 3/8" - a larger diameter than the 5/16" size supplied by Saftron. I was able to use the 3/8" hardware anyway, but now that I know, my recommendation is 5/16" stainless steel drop-in anchors and 5/16" stainless steel 1 1/4" long bolts.Installation Notes: Saftron drawings show that the distance from the pool edge (not including any catilever overhang) to the center of the first post is 7 inches. From their drawing this places the front edge of the railing slightly in the water. We decided to move the railing back further and out of the water - about another 4 inches. The top pool step is about two feet wide. We placed the railing about 12" to the left (looking in the pool direction) of the top step. This makes the railing line up close to the outside edge of the second step. The distances we chose relative to the steps has worked out well in terms of comfort and guidance for entry and exit.A hammer drill was used for drilling. It is difficult in any case to get exact placement of a drill hole in concrete. Since there are two separate mounting bases spaced rather close together, there is not much slack for any drilling error. The issue is compounded because holes for drop-in anchors need to be round and fairly tight. For better accuracy in the process a jig with the mounting base holes drilled through it was constructed using a 2 x 6 wood scrap.The pool side post base mount holes were drilled into the concrete first. After the first hole was marked and drilled the first drop-in anchor was set. Then the jig was placed over the hole with the wood bolted down into the first bolt-in anchor. A longer temporary bolt was used to pass through the additional thickness of the wood. With the jig bolted down to the concrete securely, now a second hole could be accurately drilled through another existing jig hole. The jig was then removed and a second bolt-in anchor was set. The process proceeded systematically in this manner.Once the initial base mount was bolted down, the railing was slipped into it temporarily to get a final accurate position and rotation for the second base mount.As supplied by the manufacturer the posts of the railing are - in theory - longer than necessary if using the base mounts. With a socket mount installation the post ends would be about 2" or so below grade. We were satisfied with the height as supplied and therefore made no changes. If one wanted to, though, it is an easy task to cut the posts to a shorter length since the entire railing is a composite material.