Spent most of Saturday prepping this old 70’s tub and rolling on the product. This is 2 coats and it looks great! Went from old worn out beige to a crisp shiny white. I used a 2 part product to patch a hole (see pic) and now you can barely notice it! Hopefully it will hold up with daily use. The reason for the 4 stars is the horrible smell. It’s been 24 hours and it is now subsiding. Other than that, time will tell.

The washbassin was cracked and almost broken into pieces. I glued the cracks and used this paint over. The result is shiny and smooth! Looks like new.

The paint is good not bad...the quality that i expected is not that i want...

I read most if not all of the reviews, blogs, and watched videos. I am experienced in woodworking, refinishing, and painting. I already owned 2 HVLP sprayers. I thought this would be easy for me. In the end, the finish is beautiful. But...I won't ever do this again.I followed the directions to a T, except I opted for a coarser grade of sandpaper because our tub is preformed acrylic and has lightly textured walls and a textured base so I was worried about adhesion. It was beige and I wanted it white. It was new when the house was built 2003 and saw almost no use until around 10yrs ago when our kids were old enough to bathe alone. Those 1st years were rough on my linoleum & sublfoor, but the tub itself was still new looking.I cleaned and sanded. Cleaned again. Went over everything twice with tack cloths. I used my HVLP gravity feed sprayer for 1st coat, not thinning because many people talked about how thin the epoxy paint was. It looked absolutely lovely...for about 3 minutes. Then it began to run just everywhere. I waited 2 hours and sanded the drips down. Then I used a new brush to trim & a mini roller with 2 HD foam roller covers to apply the 2nd coat and things looked good but the beige was still showing through on the tub floor and inside walls. It took 2 box kind to get this far.I bought a 3rd box kit, waited 24 hrs, lightly sanded, used a tack cloth & applied a 3rd coat to just the tub w/ 2 more HD foam roller covers. It looked great. Amazing. But, I shouldn't have mixed the whole box...Because then I had a plumbing mishap. You see, we only have a whole-house main shut-off for all of our water (sinks have their own shutoff but showers fo not). And since 6 people needed to use the master bath & the half bath while I worked on this full bath, we had to temporarily install a trim kit to the shower handle & turn the water back on. I am not a plumber, & I managed to install the trim kit wrong-- trim said water was off but actually it was on; the error happened bc i failed to notice that the internal plumbing rotated when I removed the trim kit. Since the tub spout pipe was covered, water mostly arched out of the tub onto the subfloor but did splash all over the new epoxy beneath the spout and around the drain as well as a little down the front of the tub. After the 3am dash to dry up the mess with buckets & towels, I was able to fix the plumbing error but the epoxy paint had gotten wet in places. I emailed Rust-Oleum but it was like 4am Friday morning so I didn't receive a reply until some time Monday afternoon. By then I had already acted.I read online that epoxy paint's dry & cure time could be affected by the moisture; at worst the paint's adhesion would be destroyed. I waited 24hrs for the surface to dry. The surface that had gotten wet felt like the rest & sanded like the rest. So I bought a 4th kit & mixed up half. Then I used a tack cloth and then re-coated the affected areas. Because I am still in the middle of renovating the bathroom & no one will use that shower/tub fir at least 2 weeks I am hoping that everything will turn out alright.Rust-Oleum advised me in the e-mail that I received afterward that it would be best to wait 3 days, then sand & recoat. Whoops! All this occurred the week of 7/21/20. I will try to leave an update next year as to whether the paint holds up.If I were to advise someone about using this paint, I would say to wear a sweat band (seriously glad I did) & buy an extra box to play around with. The paint is very weird in that it is super runny initially, but thickens over time. It is tricky to work with in either state. I think that experience with this specific type of paint would've helped me avoid a lot of my errors. The rest was unpredictable plumbing error.But in the end, the look is just lovely.And btw, the other posters are dead-on regarding the fumes. They are really, really bad. I wore a P100 carbon filter respirator & experienced burning eyes & got a headache the 1st day. Our bathroom is small & has no window. We ran the vent fan for the 7 days, had upper story windows opened & ran ceiling fans in upper story rooms. The fumes were the worst the 1st day (Non-masked people moved downstairs pretty quickly), but were bearable the next 2 days. After that a chemical smell lingered inside the bathroom itself for about 4 days although a mask was not necessary to be in there (I have asthma & had no issues breathing in there those last few days).

After reading the reviews, I picked up some pointers on how to make this easy to use. I primed my tile walls and front face of the tub, but left the inside and top of the tub unprimed. I did all the prep the box told me to use and then I used Kilz adhesion bonding primer, and let it set for a week, only because I ran out of time and that was the next time I was able to complete the tub and tile. I was apprehensive of the smell because of all the reviews saying how horrible it was, but if you have a window and a fan going, I didn’t really notice. It definitely did not make my eyes water and I didn’t need a mask, the window was plenty enough ventilation. I started the project at 4pm and finished at 930pm. I bought 2 boxes, and because I primed, I only used a full box and then just over half of the 2nd box. I would have had enough left over to do a small sink for sure . If you let the product sit for a few minutes it goes on a bit better. First coat on just the tub you could see brush lines and roller lines, but after the third coat, it covered all that and looked very smooth. You can’t go over product that you put on, say 5-10 minutes ago, it will lift up, just have knowledge that everything will get covered up in the 2nd and 3rd coat. Try to get all your drips feathered out quickly, so pay attention to your brush splatter. The longer the product sits, the stickier it gets, I bought 6 velour rollers and used 5 of them. They were 4” 100mm velour rollers and I used just a normal angled paint brush. When I was waiting in between coats, I Put the roller and brush in a ziplock baggie so they didn’t dry out, but I found the rollers started to fall apart and was picking pieces of roller of my painted tub So I changed the roller out. Make sure you have enough product on your roller and brush, otherwise it pulls the product up off of it. This was a super easy product and DIY to use and do and truthfully the reviews scared me a bit, but it went really good. Just follow the instructions and you’ll get great results!!

Great product, if you work patiently following every step, it works great.I used it on 2 bathtub. Do 2-3 coats. Let it dry for 2-5hrs before every coat depending on climate.You will need 1-2 good quality rollers, a tray to put the paint.Most important, sand properly before applying paint.

Changed a bath colour from green to white. It says to use a sprayer ,roller or brush. I used a roller and brush and the parts I did with a brush were a great finish. I recommend going over the rolled areas with a brush. A great product.

We have a 35 year old fiberglass shower pan which could not be adequately cleaned. No matter how hard we scrubbed, it always looked awful.I searched for a very long time for a home kit that would not require the use of dangerous acid preparations. This was the only option I found. With two weeks having passed since I used the kit, the result looks great and I highly recommend it.Expect several hours of surface prep involving an array of household cleaners, scrubbers etc. before you can do any painting. I suppose this is the price you pay to avoid the use of serious acids. When you do combine the two parts in the kit to create the paint, the resulting odor is seriously nasty like plastic cement. I did not use any kind of respirator; I just ran the bathroom fan. Unless you like to get very light headed, I suggest you buy or rent an appropriate respirator.The paint is rather thin so apply in thin coats or else you will get drip build up on vertical surfaces. I didn't have much success with a roller so I used the bristle brush exclusively. It is true that once you apply the paint, don't try to rework any given area again if more than a minute or so has passed. And only brush in one direction. Follow the instructions for recoating. The second coat can be applied within the pot life of the paint (6 hours) but if you want a third coat--and it made ALL the difference in my case--you will either need a second kit or you must carefully set aside in sealed containers the proportional amount of each component to be mixed the next day.The final coat must dry 72 hours before you can use any water on it.Naturally, you will want to complement your work with all new caulking so be prepared to be an expert at that too.In summary, I am delighted with the result but be prepared for some major scrubbing, some nasty fumes and a long patient wait while it dries.UPDATE--Six months later, still flawless. Applied correctly, this produces a very durable finish.LONG TERM UPDATE--After almost two years, the finish is still without defects. I can only emphasize what others have written--the preparation steps are lengthy but if they are followed to the letter, your result should be excellent.Seven years later--Still not a single defect in the paint though it has gotten pretty dirty in a few areas and cannot be cleaned.After 10 years we remodeled the bathroom and the shower pan is no more. But the paint never failed!