Great price for two pounds. I look forward to making soap. Great!.

The smell is light and doesn’t have that chemically soap smell! Lather is impeccable. Super easy to work with!

Just used to make my own soap and it is so soft and soothing

These have your skin smooth silky I will buy again as always this is not my second or third time buying these I regular purchase these melting pour soap bases they're worth the money and they do a great job on my skin I wish I would have known about this earlier in life I would have been using this.

Me gusta mucho esta marca!!

I love working with this particular brand. It is easy to work with and leaves your skin feeling moisturized. Great price !

I used this in the soaps I make for family and I can definitely say the shea butter adds skin softness to my entire family lol, ingredients are all natural, with no harsh smells . If you make soaps this brick of shea butter base is definitely worth the price!

I make soap for my small business Nevermore Candle House and LOVE this soap base! I didn’t want to use cold process soap because I didn’t want lye in the house with my small kids and this soap base was an amazing and safe alternative! It’s so easy to melt down and mix with fragrance and mica powder. The base holds fragrance so well and smells good even without added fragrance! It lathers well and moisturizes skin well and looks so gorgeous when poured into my soap molds. It doesn’t seem to sweat after time and has been very durable and useful. Love this base!

I went back and forth on how I felt about this base. It's finicky- even more finicky than craft store bases I've used. For the price, I can't really complain. I won't purchase the 10lb again, but may give the 5lb a try. I liked it a lot for a creamy sugar scrub mixed with salt, sugar, AO and fragrance. It's been the biggest hit with my male testers - they LOVED it.First off it could've arrived in better condition. Part of the plastic was ripped, and the soap had small patches of transfer/discoloration, maybe from improper storage? They were only surface deep and I scraped them off, but still annoying. It was also one of the sweatiest bases I've tried right out of the package. I had to wash my hands twice while cutting it into 2.5lb blocks. I thought of returning it, but figured I'd give it a try.I hate posting the photos attached because they're some of my ugliest work, but I couldn't get this soap to work well for multiple layers until like 5lbs in, and even then, it could be better. I'd stick with two or three layers max, and probably just the shea. It layers MUCH better with itself than it does with my clear base.The pink rose soap actually "seized" toward the end, probably from being microwaved so many times. I've never had that happen with MP (or CP, knock on wood). It bubbled and was so thick it congealed. A little almond oil mostly fixed that and allowed me to finish but messed up my color and pattern scheme due to the extra time i had to take to fix it, and not wanting to risk more additives in terms of mica. Even once I fixed it, and liberal sprays of alcohol, the layers came apart and had to be glued back together.I use fragrance around 3% (1% vanilla stabilizer if needed, unnecessary in rose but used in red and white peppermint soap), and usually 1/2tsp mica per pound of base, dispersed in almond oil or 91% alcohol. I'm careful not to exceed 5% of total additives with this base. I tried white kaolin clay, but because the base is so white, it turned it gray and despite vigorous stirring and dispersing in AO first, the clay clumped up.I tried layers again, this time with half being a different brands clear base. It went well at first, but this base just doesn't like to be reheated more than two or three times max. It also scorches VERY easily. For over a pound of soap, I had to microwave two or three minutes, but after the first minute I had to take it out every 5-10 seconds to stir, or it would boil and turn rubbery.Microwaving the layers individually does work marginally better, but I much prefer weighing my mold and pouring from a large batch. It's more time consuming to color and scent 6 or 7 cups, as opposed to 2. For this base, I have switched to melting and working with each individually, but make sure you have everything weighed ahead of time. If the layer gets too cool, your next layer won't adhere well.It also developed little white chunks everytime i use it, no matter how hot or cold the base is, which I've also never had happen in MP (CP yes) - untethered shea butter maybe? I haven't noticed the chunks much in the final product, but they are annoying. It hardens rather quickly as well. Adding room temp FO nearly sets it in the pitcher, so you have to work quickly.It works okay for swirling/color blending, but I haven't tried with more than two colors due to the issues I had with the base. Now that I know it's quirks - if it stays reasonably priced, I may order 5lbs at a time for my creamy sugar scrub or simpler designs. I haven't tried whipping it, and likely won't. I don't think it would turn out well.I will say, it feels soft and lathers well. If it's not lathering, you probably scorched it on accident. It holds scent well. It takes my amazon purchased cosmetic grade mica powder well, which is nice - I can save the pricier mica for CP.I love that the base is SLS, cruelty, and paraben free, but I'm curious about the thiosulfqte. I use sodium thiosulfate in my homemade color stabilizer for vanillin containing FOs, but I wonder if that isn't necessary with this base? If that's the case, the company should add that it's vanilla stable and up to what percentage - that's a huge selling point for serious soap makers, and would save a bit of money on color stabilizers, even if my homemade one is pretty cheap.Overall , at its current price under $4/lb. it's a decent product if you know what to expect. I'll use the remaining portion for scrubs and single color soaps, and end up giving most of the layered ones away or selling as "seconds."