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Reviewed in the United States on May 7, 2025
Perfect for my LS swap.
James A.
Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2025
Nice Relay Box! But, It`s Wired WRONG!!
Charles E. Walker Jr.
Reviewed in the United States on September 7, 2024
It was a great invention. Took me a while to figure out each light relay system but eventually got it done looking very professional.I’m running six different circuits some lights some extra fans for engine cooling in very hot climate. I’m extremely happy. Highly recommended.
Ratzkie
Reviewed in the United States on August 19, 2024
It looks like the design changed at some point to get away from an actual bus bar, but this is still jumpered together.Fresh out of the package I don't know what situation would ever call for this.Incoming power-with a battery terminal on it- powers all the fuses, and the relays. Fine so far...Then the incoming power ALSO hooks to the control circuit of the relay. Wtf? That makes it so that if you have a battery, this device will always leave the large draw items connected and powered with no way to shut them off. You might as well skip this and hardwire your radio, your lights, or your fuel pump to the battery directly.You will need to rewire this to use it properly. You will need to pull the small red jumpers that connect the large red incoming wire to the solenoids (pointed out in photos), and cut them off the incoming harness. Then use those pieces (for the stake-on connectors) to make your own wiring out to a key or switch. Ridiculous.Red with ring- incoming power from batteryYellow- outgoing power from solenoidsBlue- fused outputsSmall red wires on solenoids- pull these and rewire to the key or switch.One star for sturdy plastic housing, heavy gauge wire, decently long leads, and price. Minus all the stars for whoever designed the wiring.
James D Austin
Reviewed in the United States on May 6, 2024
Perfect relay box to add remote 12V to my coil and engine accessories on my VW. Nice to have fuses on the acc power to! One thing to note is the outputs from the relays do NOT go through the fuses, Only the input does.
Floyd
Reviewed in the United States on February 18, 2024
I bought this relay box to use to run two fuel pumps on a car build. I wanted one relay to run one pump and the second relay to run the second pump. After wiring it up I found that both relay outputs go to 50 amp fuses which outputs are tied together on a common buss bar. The way this is made both relays are powering both devices and all of the other fuses, there are not separate circuits. So if you remove one relay both pumps still run because the 50 amp fuse outputs are tied together, and if you pull one of the 50a fuses both pumps still run as well. I found that both 50 amp fuse outputs are tied to a common metal bar that feeds all of the fuses and both relay output wires (large red wires). I am going to cut the buss bar in half to split the relay outputs but I should not have to do this. No idea what they were thinking when it was designed. Would be a nice piece if it was made correctly.*EDIT* I split the buss bar in half with a dremel, now one relay and 50 amp fuse powers the first relay output along with two other fuses and the 2nd relay and 50 amp fuse power the 2nd relay output and two other fuses.
P. Pronti
Reviewed in the United States on December 31, 2024
I love this block. Wish it would work for me. All but for its size, which keeps it from going into the space I need it to in my car, it would have been perfect for me.I've included a wiring diagram that I drew up because of all the comments about the lack thereof.You can see from my first image there are- 2 red traces - Load supply for all 6 fuses, pin 30 at relays (They both connect to the same busbar people mention which distributes the power to all 6 fuses. The busbar could be split, as some people mention. I think you'd only do this with different V's supplied. I can't imagine any other application where one would want it split. I've represented the 2 leads as 1 + conductor.)- 2 Yellow traces - fused relayed Load 2, controlled by a Signal a, and fused relayed Load 5, controlled by Signal b, pin 87 respectively.- 4 Green traces - Fused Loads 1, 3, 4, 6, respectively- 2 White traces - Signal a, pin 85- 1 black trace - Signal Ground for both relays, pin 30All you should need to identify the traces is a continuity tester from the fuse or relay pins to the end of the traces.You're welcome...
UJM81
Reviewed in the United States on November 9, 2024
I tried to use this to add 2x relays (air horn and driving lights) and 1x fused circuit (nav tablet) on a Triumph Trophy. I 3D printed a panel to mount it, but this did not allow the seat to fit. It is slightly too large to fit under the rear seat. I ended up leaving it loose until I can fit another smaller panel. The wiring as others have noted involves 2 of the fuses (2 and 5) protecting the relay input side. The red wire feeds all the fuses, so I used an external relay triggered by an ignition feed to power this one. I included a screen capture of the wiring mods I made to allow the factory horn and high beam wiring to trigger the relays.I deducted one star since the wiring was just generic vinyl not really suited to an automotive environment. It's fairly easy to get some new terminals and use quality TXL wire. I'll also agree with the other comments that this is not truly waterproof.I'm laying out a PCB setup with 2x micro relay sockets and 3x mini fuse sockets that will fit into a custom 3D printed panel with cover to replace this.
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