Daughter loves it.

One camera was fine but 3 cameras I ordered should have a case and did not. One other camera light meter did not work, so I am returning that. I would still like a case for the other two cameras or a refund for the cost of it.

A gift i needed immediately for someone. It came faster than expected it’s in great condition. Helpful and great customer service when a slight hiccup occurred. If I need another camera I’ll be coming back here. Great for the price too

I did not get what is advertised on this listing. The body of the camera is a Nikon FM10, but the lens is an automatic Tamron 28-200mm lens that does not work properly with this camera. Also, there was no case included despite it saying it was included. BUYER BEWARE!

My Fiancé has dreamed of becoming a great photographer, and I am glad that I can assist her as she begins her journey! The packaging to the device was simplistic and secure, no dents or scratches to be had. A quick inspect of the mechanisms had not turned up any broken or clunking sounding items either.As she opened her gift up this Christmas I cannot begin to convey the awesome emotion felt by her. After several affectionate kisses and promises of love everlasting she began to try it out with the film I had also purchased. She quickly snapped several shots and as the day and night progressed I knew I had done well.

Like many online reviews and even Wikipedia describe this camera, the FM-10 is a entry level film camera. Still, even though it lacks any kind of automation and (more important IMHO) a ground-glass pentaprism viewfinder (extremely important for depth-of-field preview with lenses faster than f/2.8), I believe that this camera is as good as any other SLR film camera. Furthermore, I doubt that any beginner or even more serious amateur photographer who would choose film over digital, has a desire for high automation features in such a camera. The FM-10 (manufactured by Cosina in Japan and sold under the Nikon brand) has a built in light-meter that requires two small batteries (provided with the camera) and is operated by a separate button on the slightly upper left side of the lens. Operating the meter button does require a shift in what would be the most natural and safest left hand grip of the camera, so that holding the camera in a steady position while using the light meter button becomes a bit uncomfortable, but that probably only goes for people with smaller hands like myself. Since most modern light meters suffer from a biased factory calibration (meaning they would fail the grey card test), I am yet to run some appropriate tests as to check the accuracy of this light meter's calibration. On the positive side (and the right side of the camera), the depth-of-field preview button/lever, although not useful through the entire aperture range as mentioned above, is in a comfortable position and does fulfill its purpose at apertures starting from f/4 up. Although built on a metallic frame, the camera's body is mostly plastic. Personally, I don't think it feels cheap (no squeaky noises during handling) but I do feel like exercising caution at all times when handling it or placing it on hard surfaces, and I will think twice before taking the camera out in the rain, mist or extreme cold weather (I wouldn't care with a 35 yrs. old Nikon F1), rolling in the dirt or sand for nature close ups, etc. The camera case, although not made of quality leather as you might expect from a Nikon camera (but again, this is NOT a Nikon built camera), does provide a reasonable level of protection, except maybe for the top edges of the camera, where the attempt to leave the strap hooks come thru, has left those areas exposed to dust and other possible external damaging factors. It is also a bit awkward to remove and put back on because its edges always rub harshly agains the focus ring of the lens, which in time might create marks or even damage, especially on a plastic built lens like the one that comes with the camera. I would suggest looking for an older (much tougher and better built) leather case. The lens that comes with the camera is rated one of Nikon's worst lenses (check out Ken Rockwell's reviews for more info), but that doesn't mean you cannot take any pictures at all with it. A lens choice is always a matter of personal taste, as well as an educated choice for some users. The day I ordered my FM-10, I have also ordered a Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 manual focus lens, a mechanical and optical masterpiece suitable only for fully manual film Nikon SLRs at an unbeatable price compared to similar lenses built for digital or automated cameras. I have removed the bundled lens without even removing the lens cap and replaced it with the 50mm (much heavier as it is all metal built). For those who are not willing to "waste" $6-700 on a new fixed lens, I would suggest the older Nikkor 70-200mm AIS lens. You probably won't be able to find a new one because they don't make them anymore (as opposed to the 50mm above that you can get brand new), but you should be able to find one online in very good condition, anywhere between $100 and $400 depending on the seller. I got one for $220 in mint condition on eBay. Remember, the lens is the most important part of your camera and the decisive factor in the overall quality of your pictures (apart of course from your aesthetic and artistic feel). It remains to be seen how the not-so-high-quality of this camera will hold over time, but unless you want to go for one of the much older, bulkier (but better built) genuine Nikon SLRs, then the FM-10 is a good choice for the money, even if I consider the lens completely useless (that's just me). The reason why I didn't go for an old Nikon is because I couldn't find one from a reliable source. All sellers claim their old Nikons to be in perfect or good condition, most of them actually being completely unaware of any possible problems. Unfortunately, the slightest mechanical issue in an old Nikon SLR is very hard to detect, even harder to fix or re-calibrate, and ultimately renders the camera unusable (i.e. a slight shift in exposure time). With the money I'd pay for a defective Nikon F1 (rated in good condition) and having it fixed, I'd get a new FM-10, a leather case and some lens filters. Overall, even if I don't feel the same confidence (yet) as I used to with my old Zenit 11, I am happy with my new purchase and will try to get the best of it for as long as I can. I hope this helps you make the right choice for you.

This 35mm is pretty much the perfect college kid film camera. It wont spoon feed you when it comes to learning, which will really help you in the long run. In the age of "press this button and you're focused", this camera is one of the few 35mm's left that doesn't have AF. Also wont change exposure levels to what the camera suggests(such as AV or TV mode some cameras have), this gives you the freedom to be creative as some shots have a whole different mood if underexposed a stop or overexposed a bit. As for manual focus, it's something you need to be able to do as a photographer. Sometimes the computer in your camera just doesn't focus perfectly on that eye you want in focus, or for something as precise as macro photography which has very shallow depth you're going to need pinpoint accuracy that a computer can not do for you.This lens is great because it's like the vintage 35mm except you don't have to worry about the light meter or any other small part inside of it being broken. Nor do you have to worry about the image quality. The kit lens in this camera is very sharp. It's a bit limiting considering it's f/3.5 so that rules out really low light(but grain can be good, unlike noise in digital; grain has an artistic quality), but considering the price and the quality of the whole kit it's great.Sure you can get a used one from the 70's or 80's for way cheaper, but chances are something is broken in that thing and you may not know until you've invested 2 hours developing the first roll in your class...So shell out a little bit extra and get this, it's worth it.edit 12-9-10:I still like this, shot some street photography with it since it's really compact compared to a big DSLR, but one big con I've found is build quality. It's got a lot of plastic, and I did drop it once which resulted in a huge dent. The silver parts look metal but they aren't, they're some sort of chrome paint covering more plastic. I don't baby my gear so this thing's starting to look kinda ugly. It hasn't completely broken yet though. I said the kit lens was sharp in my review, but really I now know it's not as good as I made it out to be, I recommend a used nikon e series 50mm 1.8 ais which can be had for cheap on the used market.