This is a resin dice mold, no doubt about that. My only complaints are that I don't love the sharp edges, and I think the font could be better.

I bought these as an introduction to resin casting and dice making. They work great! It took some figuring out, but once I got the hang of it I had no problems at all. As far as the mould itself goes, I have no complaints whatsoever, and any issues I had with it were easily be solved with a better understanding of the process. So, the rest of this review is just some tips and things I've learned from using this mould.These moulds use a little less than 1.5 oz resin from my testing. My measuring cups only go as low as 1 oz, so I actually bought a second set of these moulds so I wouldn't waste resin.You'll wanna overfill these moulds a little bit, lower the lid on slowly and at an angle, and don't squeeze the lid all the way flush. Resin shrinks as it cures, so leaving that extra bit of resin will prevent the dice from becoming concave. You can remove the flashing easily once they've cured, but having too little resin and a tight seal will create a vacuum, resulting in collapsed faces.You might also want to "paint" the numbers on the lid with some resin before you put the lid on to make sure you get a clean bond and no air pockets. It's a bit messy, but I found it was a lot easier to get good results this way. My first few attempts always had air bubbles in the holes of the 0s on the d100. Once I started pre-filling them, I had no issues. Also be sure to inject resin right to the bottom of the d4, as an air pocket tends to form right at the bottom.I find I have the most trouble getting clean casts of the d4 and the d20: The d4 has very sharp corners, making it easy to create air pockets on the sides and corners; the d20 is pretty much impossible to get the 1 side flush with the other faces, and truthfully, I wouldn't worry about that as much as making sure there's no air pockets just underneath the opening.The d8, the d10, and the d12 almost always came out perfect.Another thing to keep in mind: there's only so much you can do to reduce bubbles. Mix slowly, pour carefully, and make sure every corner is filled adequately. I used a pipette to suck up some of the bigger bubbles, but microscopic bubbles seem to always be present without extra tools or a LOT of care, and no mould is going to fix that on its own.If you do want those crystal clear dice with no air bubbles, you probably need to invest in a pressure chamber, and maybe use a mould that uses sprues and a reservoir system instead, just to make sure there's some enough material to fill those spaces. But that's getting into advanced stuff, and if you're at that level, you're probably making your own moulds anyway.I found that, depending on the weather, it took about 24 hours for my resin to cure fully in these moulds, using the resin from the same company (Let's Resin Crystal Clear Epoxy Resin). I keep a little bit of the waste resin around in a container so I can get an idea of how close to cured they are without disturbing the dice. But typically, I start them in the morning and extract them the next afternoon (about 36 hours), and they're always fully cured.I hope these tips are helpful if you do try this out. It's a great product, and a very fun and satisfying hobby! Happy dicemaking everyone!!

TLDR Version for the ADHDers: There's not one for this one, fam. Read all the words.First you need to know that I have never done any resin work before this and we got into this just to make dice for my son. With that also goes a certain acceptable quality level for the finished product as we were willing to accept some imperfections that I wouldn't be willing to accept if I paid for the dice.The boring stuff - it's nicely packaged and clean. The dice are easy to pop out when they've cured, though you do have to take the resin out of the reservoirs that are in place around the dice with more complex shapes. If you don't pop the cured resin out of the reservoirs before trying to pop out the die in that part of the mold, I think you could run the risk of tearing up the mold. Anyway, not a big thing. I actually like to take that reservoir resin out and use it to know when the resin is cured enough for me to safely remove them.Now what you really came for - the bubbles. Beginner here (a VERY craft one, though), and I don't think you are going to get all the bubbles out without a pressure pot. I just don't. I read through the comments before purchasing so I knew some of the tricks to try to get rid of the bubbles, but the first couple of runs that I did on this mold I still had some large bubbles that nestled in points and corners - those ruin the dice in my opinion.This is my beginner with not a lot of tools and equipment process:1. Mix resin fully, add whatever colors you're planning to add, then let sit for a bit next to something that vibrates (to get bubbles out). I use a jewelry cleaner, but yeah - whatever you choose is up to you........ How long you let the resin sit depends on what resin you're using and how long it's workable, but mine is workable for up to 40 minutes and I let it sit for about 25 before pouring into the mold.2. Spoon off any surface bubbles from resin, then slowly pour each mold about 1/3 full.3. Take a plastic toothpick and slowly run it through the corners, edges, and points.4. Fill to 2/3 and repeat the toothpick scrape.5. Fill to top - overpour - and repeat toothpick scrape6. THIS IS IMPORTANT - run the toothpick around the top inside lips of the more enclosed dice to free the bubbles.7. Let sit for a few minutes, using a toothpick to guide any bubbles off the side of the mold.8. While it is sitting, take the lid of the mold and place a little resin on each of the numbers, watch for bubbles, remove them.....9. As it gets tacky, you're going to roll the top onto the mold - pushing the overpour and bubbles off the side of the mold. I start over the 20 sided and slowly, firmly press as I roll the top down over the mold. Careful not to lift it or create any bubbles. Keep firm pressure on the mold.10. Look through the top of the mold for any trapped bubbles. If you see any, stick a plastic toothpick in through the lid and mold and rake the bubbles out.11. Put something heavy on the mold and let it cure. I use a concrete tabletop firepit (see picture).When I demold, I clean up the edges a little but, but otherwise they come out ready to go. My son paints the numbers in with acrylic and he's off to do some dungeoning and dragoning. Rawr.

Pros:-They work AMAZINGLY! I was a little worried that I wasn't going to be able to use it very well, but after a couple practice runs, my holders are coming out almost perfectly every time! I am so glad I bought it!-The end results are awesome! The design and the function of these are great, I love how it looks in the end!Cons:-Not beginner-friendly (see notes below).-Can be kinda persnickety if you're doing a more complicated design (though, again, after a couple practice rounds, it's easy enough).-The corners of the lid are on the more difficult side to get filled. I've found I have to pull up on the lip with one hand, and mush resin from the bottom to fill them in.Notes:-The lid is the mold with the lip, and yes, you must fill it up to the edge or it won't hold.-Do this project in AT LEAST 3 parts, or you'll have messes and soft spots.-The main piece's "lid" (it's not actually the lid, but it acts as one) is the piece with the little tab-thing. Make sure this lines up with the notch in the body of the box. Also, make sure when you do the middle part, you fill it up to just over the point where these two pieces meet, because if you don't, the lid will leak resin while it dries. When you're to the point of filling up this lid, make sure you fill it up out the pour-spout, so that it has room to sink, and reduce bubbles.-This project will take roughly 350-400mL of resin, even though it doesn't look like it should. I usually work it in 100mL segments.

Made many dice. Still working on getting rid of bubbles but bubbles are minimal as is

The mold works well, I've discovered it's best to overfill them to avoid bubbles. (or use a heat gun if you have it) Definitely worth the price and easy to use!

I think this mold's biggest issue is the seal for the second part of the base. Like many 2 part cap style molds, they leak like nobody's business, making a mess, wasting material and producing a disappointing product.It would be a beneficial design improvement is these caps had more of a ZipLoc type connecter than these flimsy channels that supposedly fitin. The concept of 'just glue it' creates a lot of waste. I'm already playing with a not-so-friendly toy. I"m trying to minimize the 'just get a disposable' mindset.If freezer bag manufacturer's can find a zipper that is designed to stand up to freezing, then be thrown away, then it's economically and technically feasible to produce mold with better joins. There are high end silicone bags that go from freezer to a sous vide, so temperature range isn't an issue. This Zipper CAN be made.I would **happily** preassemble a strong join and fill with a funnel. I would trade tedious&works-reliably for easy&hit-or-miss in a heartbeat.

Its crystal clear Let's Resin strives to not be honest about its products. I've provided a picture of the info I'm talking about and how its extremely misleading. I've tried multiple times now to get a good cast from any of the dice molds and you will never get rid of the bubbles due to the flawed mold design. Any kind of mold design that requires a lid will always have bubbles leftover because the lid traps them obviously! This is not the first product I've purchased from Let's Resin that is flawed or doesn't work correctly.