ICM Controls ICM282A OEM Replacement, Carrier HK42FZ004, HK42FZ007, HK42FZ008, HK42FZ009, HK42FZ011, HK42FZ013, HK42FZ016 and HK42FZ0-xx Series Furnace Control Board Module

Board was a clone of original and easy to install. Fast shipping.

Perfect replacement for my Carrier furnace board. Had called local HVAC company and looked online for OEM parts. All were $384 to $520 CDN. Don’t be intimidated by this swap out. So simple a child can do it. I didn’t read any instructions because I didn’t have to troubleshoot any faulty parts. I do recommend taking a picture of your old board before you start disconnecting wires so you know where they go back on the new board, unless you want to spend a lot of time reading schematics.

The NEW upgraded version of the furnace control board works perfectly for my home furnace (1995 Carrier Weather-Maker 8000). Highly recommended!

Worked like a charm and easy to install

I was really happy with this product. It save lot of my money. It was a very easy DIY type of an installation. It is working very well with my weathermaker 8000 furnace.Thanks again for making this type of a user friendly parts with more durability.

Replaced a Carrier HK42FZ001 control board with this one and it worked well and saved me four hundred dollars (I figured even if I screw it up and burn up this board, I could get another and still come out ahead). The listing doesn't say anything about the adapter cables, but they were in the box. Additionally, the stick-on wiring diagram and fault code labels come with it.My blower fan wasn't getting power, but the condenser was still coming on (which started while we were on vacation and froze everything up - that's bad) and I checked everything else out, leaving just the board as the culprit. I also called an HVAC service tech to double check my work and he came to the same conclusion. Turned out to be a burned out relay on the original control board.Replacing the board wasn't all that difficult, but it's worth the time to plan it out, verify what wires come and go from which spots on both boards, and, just for good measure I labeled each wire as I disconnected it from the old board (with an actual label maker for long term). For the most part, the wire colors were right, but the bundle of wires from the thermostat and to the condenser were a mess. We had a humidifier installed a few years back, and we also have a condensate pump in the mix and there was some sloppy work done on the wiring and not all the colors matched. The terminals on the new board for the thermostat wires are smaller than the original and wouldn't hold 3 wires on one terminal well, so I took a couple photos for reference and detached one set at a time and used Wago Levernuts https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-222-413-Lever-Nut-Assortment/dp/B00U4520JK/ to join groups together, with a pigtail hanging off to connect to the board.

This unit worked for my control board # HK42FZ009 replacement. If you don't know your board number, don't ask somebody else for it. Simply take the control board off the furnace, and pull it apart just enough to get a picture of the part number off the board with your phone and flash. If you aren't comfortable doing this, you should not buy this part, as you will be taking the entire board out and apart to do this replacement. You don't need to be a furnace tech or electrician to replace this unit, but you do need to be able to follow directions. For my unit, I went through the old schematics to cross reference which wires went where to verify I was doing it correctly. You probably should do the same, but this is America and I'm not going to tell you how to live your life. Other reviews have said the same things I am about to go through, but I will try to group all these tips into one newer review.I had an issue where if I wiggled the wires on the old board, my furnace would turn off and on like a light switch. Every cycle would vibrate the wires until it would shut off. I talked to a furnace tech, who told me there's no way to diagnose a board, you just have to replace it and see if that fixes the problem. I'm not sure on his diagnostic statement, but with his quote of $400+ with no guarantee, I passed. I wasn't sure if I needed a new board, new plugs or both, but when I saw the wiring harness with this universal unit for $128, I figured it should repair both. If you had to, you could cut the plugs off, twist the wires together to eliminate the plugs in question. I did not have to do this thankfully.1. For my 80% furnace, you discard the old control board box, and mount this board right to the furnace in the original spot. This unit didn't fit inside the original plastic protective box. Seems weird to have the board exposed like this, but that's how they made it. I saved my old board and the plastic box just in case anything happens. Mount it before plugging anything in to help avoid static shock or dropping the new unit.2. Take tons of pictures of the wires and the post name it is plugged into. I use different colored tape and zip ties to differentiate each wire and make sure I can read the post name and see the wire in each picture, because this is not an exact replacement (at least for my unit). You have to read the instructions (really). For the most part, the wires end up going back onto the same named post (Spare 2-->Spare 2, PL1-->PL1, COOL-->COOL), but none of the plug locations are the same (geographically) and a few have different names. COM became BLW (despite there being a COM on the board).3. Neutral wires: there's 3 or 4 of them and it doesn't matter how you place them within the grouping of NEU posts which are in an "L" configuration amongst other posts, just make sure it is in fact a Neutral post. I personally think they should be off on their own, individually labeled or at least in a straight line to help clarify, but I'm sure the manufacturer has their reason for this.4. Testing. The instructions tell you to briefly short two posts on the control board. I held mine for a FEW seconds (too long, read on) and nothing happened except a rapid flashing led light telling me I need to reverse polarity. I checked my work, reset the unit, and shorted the unit for not even a second and it cycled through the test without a hitch. If you just tap the wire against the post, nothing will happen (no LED flashing, no function test).I'm happy to report this unit has been working without issue for the last 16 hours, where the old unit cut out every 15 minutes. I am confident in this unit and my repair. The plugs are all solid, and the control board functions just as it should.

Works great. My furnace was giving me error code 34 and then 14. First I thought that my HSI ignitor had failed and ordered a new one. But that didn't work. So after consulting with a HVAC technican who said check the voltage reading to the HSI ignitor, which turns out to be zero voltage. o which he told me that most probable cause is that the board failed. So I ordered this board. Sure its not an exact looking replacement to the original in my furnace (Board model HK42FZ011) in my Bryant 80Plus gas furnace. but just taking it out of the box and looking at the quality of the board and materials used. It actually looks great and its Made in the USA. Very well made and assembled. It comes well wrapped in a anti static sleeve and then wrapped with bubble wrap and then in the cardboard retailer box It includes clear instructions to follow and the adapter cords that you will need to use. BTW it will not fit into that gray plastic dust cover that was covering the original control board but that is minor inconvenience to totally negligible. Just install it without that gray dust cover and you still will not have any problems. When i replaced the original board and looked at it, it was easy to see that it had shorted out in the HSI ignitor relay on the board. Burned and black markings verified that it was my board that needed replacement. But while I was at it, I also replaced the HSI ignitor too since it also looked worn and hadn't ever replaced it for the past 3-5 years. The box also included the error code label and the new diagram schematic, both with sticker backs so that you can stick them over the old ones on your furnace. Yes, it comes with the sticker diagrams if your furnace is a 80% or 90% furnace. My furnace is a 80% furnace.