Local HVAC contractors wanted average of $1000 for installation. I was replacing a Tru Steam so all the hookups were already there. Took me around 2 hours. $500 an hour savings isn't bad.

Had my unit for just shy of 3-years now and the unit started spitting water out a small outlet on the top right hand corner. Needless to say the ceiling got wet and fortunately I happen to be checking the unit when this happened. I turned off the unit and cleaned everything that did nothing I called the plumber who installed it and he came out only not to figure out what is going on. I called Honeywell and was referred to Resideo who handles their product. I was told I had to go back through the seller and have them file the warranty as I could not. I have sent to messages to them through the Amazon site and nothing. Called Amazon and was told they could do nothing. After really complaining the agent finally got her manager who said return the unit and they would refund our money. I told them send me a new one and they said I had to buy another which is now 40% higher than my original. Reached out to Resideo again and what a waste of time. Knowing what I know now, I wish I had not bought the unit. My advice is DON’T BUY.

Excellent professional grade. Initially I was worried when I saw some negative reviews. When installed made sure that all the manufacturer’s instructions are followed. It is working like a charm.

I previously had a Honeywell TrueSteam which lasted about 6 years. I installed the new Electrode Steam Humidifier in about 3 hours because it fit in the hole of the TrueSteam. It's been installed 5 months and it runs like a dream. The HVAC people wanted $4200 to $4600 which included install. I bought it between $650 and $700 and saved a ton of money. So far I'm very happy with this product. It works like a dream

Other than the box, which was partially destroyed during delivery the unit itself was well packed and undamaged.As I was replacing another unit, I had previous wiring from the humidity and furnace control and the unit uses standard wiring, so it was a matter of moving from the old unit into the new unit.If there is a downside, the unit MUST be hardwired, no 120v plug and the installation documents suggest against using an outlet. And don't forget to change the voltage; the unit can handle 120 or 240 and it comes strapped for 240. I used 120 wiring since the house is within the output available for 120 voltage.I think it took about 45 minutes to install, and that included hard wiring the electricity.As for performance, it's been 6-8 weeks and it's holding humidity levels well.

If you are looking to replace your old Honeywell TrueSteam humidifier with this one, you don't have to choose just this one. I bought this because of reviews that said it is an easy compatible upgrade. It is not.Plus:1. The new disposable water canister will keep salt from water sealed and your installed area clean. Cleaning is not an issue anymore.2. Generally, whole house steam humidifiers are more efficient. Humidifying your house reduces static shocks, helps you feel warmer at lower temperatures and good for the skin and eyes. Specifically, in winters. I'll be using the humidifier for the first time this winter.Minus:1. The water canister needs to be replaced every year and could cost above $70. Cost, adding to landfills are a definite minus.2. The unit does not come with a backflow preventer or valve for the water intake. You can get a basic one for under $10 in your local hardware shop. The unit should come with one though.3. The unit comes with a humidistat. The return vent has to be drilled into and the sensor placed in it for proper working. The humidifier can only be controlled locally, unless you already have a compatible thermostat/wiring. I had to upgrade to Aprilaire_8920 system for long term compatibility.

Replaced an older Honeywell TrueSteam with this unit. Easy installation and wiring. Integrated with an IAQ Pro thermostat/humidistat and EIM interface. Works seamlessly and controls more precisely than the TrueSteam ever did.Appears that electrical energy usage is about 25% less. Wired it for 230 VAC, which is a nice option, since the True?Steam only was available for 120 VAC at teh time I purchased it.

Quick shipping and excellent quality. I was able to lower my humidifier setting from before because this is so efficient. It works great with my Nest thermostat. I had my neighbor who is an HVAC tech help with the install. He has one and recommended it. The installation instructions were very good and probably I could have done it but I’m glad I had him. I would recommend this system. It’s more costly than the humidifiers that dump water into a filter element and blow hot air through it and back into the lower portion of the furnace and back up again. Some of it goes through the process again. With this system, water is heated creating steam which goes in the top of the plenum and directly out to your house. With two less “holes” in my furnace it operates more efficiently as well.

I have a dry eye condition which is aggravated in low humidity environment. We have natural gas forced air heating. With standard evaporative drum humidifier on the furnace the humidity would get quite low in the winter The Honeywell HM750A1000 boils water to inject steam into the furnace warm air duct so it can put a lot more moisture into air than an evaporative system. It is also cleaner because with the boiling water there is no bacteria build up the way there is with stagnant water in an evaporative humidifier.When connected to 120 volts the Honeywell HM750A1000 can output 11 gallons of water per day, and when connected to 240 volts it can output 22 gallons per day. The same device and be changed from 120 to 240 volts by moving a jumper on the circuit board [see photo] so you don’t have to decide in advance which unit to buy. I ran a separate circuit from the breaker panel to the humidifier and am operating on 120 volts. If I decide that greater moisture output is needed it will be easy to change to 240 volts as there is nothing else on the circuit. The humidifier draws 11 amps so a separate circuit is recommended anyway. Running on 120 volts I have the humidity set to 40% and with furnace fan running continuous there is no problem keeping the humidity steady at 40% except on one day when the outside temperature dropped to -20 C and the humidity when down to 35% for a while. House is about 2000 square feet.I purchased a portable digital humidity meter and it shows 50 to 55% while the Honeywell humidistat that comes with the humidifier shows 40%. So I don’t actually know what the true humidity is. Did some internet research on humidity measurement and found that humidity is one of the most difficult things to measure with accuracy. An error of 5 to 10% can be expected in any low cost humidity meter and that would include the humidistat and the portable humidity meter. Anyway the air is much better and my dry eyes like it. I keep the portable meter visible in the TV room so if there is any significant drop in humidity it will be seen quickly - that happens if the doors are opened for an extended time on a very cold day.The higher humidity does mean more condensation on the windows, but windows can be replaced while eyes can’t. Also our skin is not drying out in the winter the way it used to. Also less likely to catch a cold virus when humidity is at a good level. The humidistat comes with an outdoor temperate sensor which can be used to reduce humidity on cold days to avoid excessive window condensation. I did not install that as I want to keep the humidity constant even when that means excess window condensation.The Honeywell HM750A1000 includes a nice digital humidistat with illuminated display [see photo] but does not include an airflow detector [black disk in same photo]. The airflow detector (Amazon ASIN B008D7T3VE) measures the differential air pressure between the cold air return duct and the hot air duct to determine if the furnace fan is running and moving air, then sends a signal to the humidifier that it is OK to inject steam into the hot air duct.As there is a lot of electronics in the humidifier [see photo] I connected to with a power cord plugged into a surge protector [see photo]. Another advantage of power cord is that it makes it easy to disconnect from power when servicing the humidifier. If you decide to use a power cord make sure it is heavy gauge to carry 11 amps without heating up. I used 14 AWG power cord.The humidifier takes some space and is best mounted directly on the furnace. In my case the white gas vent pipes [see photo] had to be re-arranged to make space for the humidifier. So check where you are going to mount humidifier before you purchase it. Dimension is about 10 x 18 inches. Also there is a drain hose which has to go somewhere. The humidifier periodically empties into the drain hose to keep water vessel clean. If you have to move gas vent pipes, like I did, get that done professionally to avoid carbon monoxide leak from improper seal at pipe joints.The white plastic canister vessel that the water is boiled in has to be replaced, perhaps annually. There is an indicator light which will show when the canister needs replacing. I chose Honeywell over other brands because I figured the canister will be easily available in the future. The canister part number is HM750ACYL and lowest cost I could find was $110 so figure that into your annual maintenance cost. A nice thing about the canister is that it is sealed so all the mineral build up stays inside the canister rather than making a mess of the humidifier which is what happens with an evaporative humidifier. The canister comes with a loose salt tablet inside so don’t worry if you hear a rattle. Canister and some other replacement parts are available online from Build Canada as well as other HVAC suppliers.The wiring from humidistat to humidifier is just 4 wires low voltage. The instruction book is confusing but the wiring is simple. See my photos if you have trouble with instructions. Another two wires go from airflow detector to humidifier [see photos]. And three wires for 120 V supply.If you are not confident with plumbing, wiring, and drilling into furnace ducts, then hire an HVAC professional to do the install.

We just had our first dip in humidity where the humidity outside was 7% but the humidifier would only hold at 27% indoors. I watched it for several days and so far it hasn't brought humidity back up to 40% yet. I've called for maintenance even though there is not alarm indication. I ended up rewiring the system to 220Volts and while it did better, it cannot maintain more than 37% humidity in our 3108 sqft house. Honeywell ratinf of 8000 sqft is a joke.

If your are good at DIY, this is a great unit to install. Was the only one that I could fit in my furnace installation. Great results !

I own a larger condo which very much limited the type of humidifier I could install (no option for an evaporative humidifier as heating is electric baseboard). I Installed this during a renovation in conjunction with a replacement fan coil (that is used for A/C in the summer). Has been working very well so far, no complaints.

I’ve had this a year now. It is very reliable and wired for 110v it adjusts the humidity in my leaky 2200sqft home incredibly fast. When I installed it last winter it was -25c outside and 21% humidity inside. It raised my inside humidity to 40% in a couple hours.I wired it to my nest thermostat with a. Cheap relay and it’s been working perfectly.Definitely recommend.