I was trying to buy the Uno upgrade chip but I accidentally bought this one, they assisted me with programming over the seller messages and were very attentive with helping me, and then in the end I decided that the chip wasnt going to be very accessible to my blind friend I was setting the board up for. If I was using it or anyone that could see, the main benefit you do get from this chip is the ability to send different messages on different midi channels, premapped controls for some common fx rigs and alot more preset slots! Extremely easy to install, just need a screwdriver and a pliers, it just pops in!

Put it into my FCB1010. Way too many screws on the backplate to install this, then just slips in place of the old one. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BEND THE PINS. Start looking at Youtube instructions NOW. Go to the Eureka site for tutorials applicable to your respective Emulator (Fractal, Headrush, etc), and start watching now. I finally got fully set and comfortable with this chip added to the FCB in about 2 weeks. Unless you need 10,000 presets and 40 effects to tweak each on the fly, this chip will carve hours and hours of learning and programming time. I use 2 cleans, and 3 dirty channels, 4 efx stomps, wah, vol, and 1 tuner. The chip will easily allow that to be programmed and reprogrammed fairly easily.

Totally exceeded my expectations. The FCB1010 (from Behringer) is a great product at a great price to begin with, but when you add the Eureka firmware it's like lighting the afterburners. My FCB is connected to my Eleven Rack. The Eureka firmware operating in Eleven Rack mode just totally nails this configuration. it does everything I expected, and more.I can't speak to the effectiveness with other effects boxes but there's no reason to expect any less satisfaction than with the Eleven Rack.Caution: If you are not experience with removing and inserting socketed integrated circuits, you should consult with someone who is, and/or procede with extreme caution. Another reviewer said that he had to order a second eprom because the first one was damaged during insertion. It's easy to happen if you're not experienced. it's also very easy to damage the min circuit board or the original firmware eprom in your FCB as you remove the original one.The one coming out has to be very carefully lifted out to avoid bending or breaking pins. start with a proper chip puller if you have one or can borrow one or whatever, or a very small flat blade screw driver. using the screwdriver, put the blade between the bottom of the chip and the frame of the socket at one end of the chip and lever it up just a tiny bit, just so you see it start to move. then switch to the other end and do the same, just a tiny bit of lift. Alternate ends until it is loose.To insert, make sure all the pins on the new chip are straight and in alignment with each other. I also like to straighten the pins so that they are exactly 90 degrees to the body of the chip. It's very typical for the pins to be splayed out a bit off of 90 degrees, kind of like this: / (looking at the end of the body) which makes it harder to line them up into the socket holes.To do this, hold the chip so one row of pins lays flat against a hard table top surface. Very gently put a little downward pressure on the body of the chip - do not put any pressure on the other row of pins - and gently rotate the body of the chip to get the row of pins to all bend in just slightly back towards the body. After the first row, you'll have this: | .Then do the other row, and you'll have this: | |then carefully line up the two rows of pins with the socket making sure all pins engage their corresponding holes. gently press downward to seat the chip. You can rock it in a little bit, by pressing a little on one end, then the other, but only by a little bit. The chip must not become fully seated at one end and still loose at the other.If any pin is not aligned with its hole, it will be bent over and crushed when the chip seats down into the socket. This is probably what happened to the other reviewer.

For me, it lacked a source of written instructions for setting up the various modes and configuring it to your own multi-effects unit. I have a TC Electronics G Major and I spent a LOT of time figuring out things that were not made clear in the YouTube videos. They are the only source provided for information on the EPROM, besides the Eureka forum. That can be helpful if it addresses your problem. And that depends on what processor you are trying to connect with etc.

[I'm leaving 5 stars as I don't want to tank the product reviews on this because it' obvious these guys have done a lot of work on it, it apparently works well for some people, and they were cool in handling my refund, but I want to make other people aware of issue before they buy it.]The chip is a great idea, but be warned that if you are buying this to have the FCB finally do a true momentary switch behavior (i.e. you set a CC, and it "switches" from one value when you press and another value when you release, this DOES NOT do that. Momentary mode is the same as with the default FCB.With the Eureka, you set a CC for a switchin PP/programmable mode, set it to momentary, and when you mach the pedal it sends out 127 when you step on it. and then 127 when you step on it, then 127 when you step on it... It never sends a zero, so it's not really a switch... It's like turning on a light that you never can turn off.Huge bummer... :(It's actually LESS flexible than the stock firmware that at least lets you set the CC value that is sent. This only sends 127.I suppose it works great for the built in supported models, but if you're looking to make the FCB really programmable, this doesn't do it.

Does what it claims. It's hard to criticize because I know enough about software development to know the limits of my understanding of EPROM programming. So, while the method to program the footswitches is quite tedious, it reason might be the limitations of the particular chip usable in the FCB 1010.A word of warning. I had to buy two of these. I totally botched the first installation. I blame myself for not working with adequate lighting and tools, but part of the problem is that the pins on the chip are very soft and flexible. If, when inserting it, you do not have it really really correctly aligned then there's a good chance of bending one or (more likely) more pins with even moderate pressure. Once bent they are hard to get straight, and a after few bends and they snap.The 2nd attempt went much better, as I made sure all was aligned before pressing the chip into place.