Works well a little stiff at first.

I purchased this epoxy for use aboard my sailboat. I wanted to seal my engine shaft well and did not want to have to laminate using cloth and epoxy due to complex shapes and tight space.I also had some deterioration of a weather deck stanchion base spacer which I wanted to try to address.I have used standard epoxy extensively but it is typically quite fluid and can be difficult to use for projects which require a putty like consistency. Especially in those instances where the location of the work is in a tight space. Even when epoxy is mixed with filler it can be more fluid and drooping than desired, especially if one is working in temperatures above 75 F.So I thought I would give this a shot. Wow! I am impressed so far. Initially I did a test by creating a fillet joining two plywood boards at 90 degrees. I observed cure time (no "working" duration was given on packaging) and found the material beginning to kick at around 20 minutes and workable to about 30 to 40 minutes (at around 70 degrees F). This is very approximate. I used no cloth and did minimal surface prep. I observed the joint over the next few hours and saw good signs of hardening. I left the test article in the garage overnight and by the next morning, 14 hours after mixing, I had a remarkably well bonded test piece. The fillet sides were around 1/2 inch and the bond was excellent. I did not test to breaking but I put a pretty good torque on the piece and it held. The material itself had hardened to a good, solid consistency with no deformation when attacked with the edge of a screwdriver. Felt solid like cured epoxy should feel. Good adhesion and good hardness.Big win! I was now ready to have at my actual project aboard the boat. I completed the areas I needed to seal and will be painting once material is cured. I did sand a bit on the surfaces to be filleted.I also filled the areas below two stanchion base. The original spacer was an epoxy wafer about 1/4 inch thick and 2 inches in diameter. this was installed between the bases and the deck to achieve a level pushpit railing installation during the original build of my boat. Over the years this spacer had deteriorated badly due to UV exposure and I needed to replace failed material and reinforce these spacers. I created small "worms" of the epoxy putty and pressed these into the gap between the stanchion and the deck until I had rebuilt the spacers and created a clean line around the stainless stanchion base. This worked out very well and the spacers now are hardened and look brand new. Big win!So here are a few observations1. Typical epoxy, it is very temperature dependent on cure time. However, there is zero information with regard to working time at reference temp which i would say should be 75 degrees F. So you need to test in your environment. I would test regardless. You want to become familiar with workability/adhesion before you apply it to something important.2. Workabaility is excellent but be prepared for a less than perfect finished surface on larger jobs. In an engine shaft well I did not care too much about fine detail and perfection would have been a nightmare to achieve. So it kind of looks like dough in a pie pan, you can make out my finger presses as I formed the fillet. However I did want perfection on the stanchion bases as they are visible on deck. The small gap involved was easy to work with my finger. The surface on these looks nice and flat, excellent.3. Sanding can be accomplished. I did not need to do that and couldn't have reached the space anyway. But if you must sand, and you can get at the surface then you could probably address imperfections easily enough.4. Paining works very well once material is cured there is no amine blush (look it up).5. Cured color is a bright white even though one of the epoxy components in light grey. I wondered about that, but it is definitely white when cured.6. Mixing - I used a blade to slice an exact chunk of each material so I would wind up with correct proportions. Just lay the two components together on a plastic sheet and slice the same size chunk off both. Very easy.Then break the cut chunks away from each "bar" while leaving the remainder in its original plastic packaging. remove plastic cover, place the material together and start kneading like you would a piece of dough for baking. When working with epoxy I use the 60 second rule. Keep up the dough mixing while you slowly count to 60. It is tedious but should give you a nice consistently colored wad of mixed material. Use a small piece to begin with and test overnight to make sure you got it right. If all good then go for it.You can form the material however you want. In my case I needed various sized "worms" so I just rolled it between my palms to get the right diameter worm, apply it to the project press it into a fillet shape then add another worm until I had the seam complete.7. The gloves provided in the kit are CRAP. The material is a little sticky and the glove material is too light. Don't bother. You will need some proper disposable gloves. Buy a box on Amazon. I have experience with epoxy use and bare hands. Don't do it. I had miserable dermatitis for months as a result of mishandling epoxy, not worth it, believe me.8. I wish the manufacturer provided more tech detail and use information. This is a great product deserving of some additional product support. Hello manufacturer, A YouTube video would be a very good idea!!!

Worked great, long lasting and strong. I repaired my pool cleaner bar that was worn off from hitting the pool walls, looks like new now

Worked perfectly

Exactly as described! Dries rock hard. Can be used for many purposes as it can be molded. An amazingly durable product.

This is easy to cut and get exact amounts also easy to blend together

GREAT STUFF.CONTAINER SUCKED

Worked as described. Chopped off a slice from each of the puddy bricks with supplied tool and rolled the two into ropes then braided and rolled them together to form one uniform color. Applied to cracked plant pot with large chips missing. Left to dry for 24 hrs sanded off excess with a dremel and voila... saved a 30 dollar pottery plant pot. Worked like a charm! Have 95% of the puddy left put it in an air sealed bag and in the fridge. Time will tell how long it lasts.

I've purchased epoxy putty previously at the home improvement store. Although they package in a nice tube, it's a much smaller volume at a higher price. Since it doesn't dry until mixed, this is a much better value.

For sure this is setting a lot slower than they said. It has been 5.5 hours and its still slightly flexible but its getting there.

I have a very expensive statue I purchased many years ago, but there has become some damage on the ankle with a hairline crack. This was easy enough to use by mixing both compounds together activating its hardening effects. I only needed about 20g of each to have enough to make the repair, so I have plenty left over for other projects. They did provide gloves and a scraper but I found using my drywall putty scraper worked best for mixing it up after working it with my hands. After 24 hours, I gently sanded to make it smooth and am painting it today! Easy to work with, and forms a strong bond, couldn’t be happier!

Haven’t had a chance to use this yet but I’m sure it is very good

This epoxy putty works well. Just make sure you mix it THOROUGHLY. One of us *cough* hubby *cough* didn't mix it enough and it didn't harden. Even after 5 days the putty remained soft. A second try, twisting and mixing thoroughly, yielded good hard results that could be sanded and drilled into to insert a screw.